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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #1  
Old 10th March 2007
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Default clutch adjustment

how do i adjust the clutch on my 06 sportster
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  #2  
Old 11th March 2007
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Get the factory manual and save lots of grief! If you do it you'll know it's right. If somebody else does all you can do is hope.
Matt
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Old 11th March 2007
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I'll be doing mine shortly on my 06, I'll take some pics for you
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Default Clutch Adjustment

Adjusted my clutch today and took some pics along the way, hope this helps you out. It's a very simple task that will only take a 1/2 hour or less if you have the proper tools.

First thing to do is place the bike upright on a lift so when you remove the clutch inspection cover you don't lose any fluid, if you don't have a lift you need to have someone sit on the bike and hold it upright. The job doesn't take that long so it's not that big of a deal and they don't have to hold it up until you get to the part where you remove the inspection cover.

Remove the left side peg, unless you have forward controls.



Next pop off the spring type retaining clips so you can easily work on the cable.



Pull the rubber boot up to give access to the adjustment on the cable.



Break the jam nut loose and screw it up to the top.



Screw the cable adjuster up against the jam nut.



This will give you lots of slop at the lever like this.



Next remove the clutch inspection cover. These screws take a T27 Torx bit, if you don't have one go to Sears and pick up a kit that has all the Torx bits in it. I was unable to find a T27 by itself and had to get the kit. If you don't use the right bit you will surely strip the screw head and then you have a new can of worms.



Heres the kit I got



Here is the inside, you can see the hex lockplate with the spring attached, if the spring stuck to your cover then the hex lockplate may be sitting there by itself or still attached to the spring, no big deal.



Remove the hex lockplate with the attached spring off of the adjusting screw assembly. You can see how it is slotted to prevent the adjusting screw from backing out.





Using a flat blade screwdriver turn the adjuster counterclockwise until you feel resistance. Then turn it back clockwise a 1/4 turn.



Reinstall the hex lockplate with the spring, turn the adjustment screw clockwise if you have to to line up the flats on the lockplate.

With the bike upright it would be a good time to check the fluid level also before you put the inspection cover back on. The fluid level should be just below the bottom edge of the inspection cover hole with the bike upright.

Reinstall the clutch inspection cover being careful not to dislodge the quadring (rubber seal) from the primary cover. If it comes off use a little bearing grease to hold it in place. Also make sure the spring seats in the cup on the back side of the inspection cover. (See Shu's post below)


Reinstall the screws with some blue LocTite, torquing to 84 to 108 INCH POUNDS

Say it with me now, LocTite is our friend



Adjust your cable by turning the adjuster away from the jam nut until you have 1/16" to 1/8" clearance between the ferrule and the lever housing. Pull the cable away from the housing to determine this. Lock down the jam nut, pull the rubber boot back over it, reinstall the spring clips, put on the peg assembly and you're done.



Unfortunately for me, after my clutch was adjusted properly, I have confirmed that it still slips when a heavy hand is applied at the throttle. So I'll be back with an install of the Barnett extra plate kit soon.

Hope this helps you out, and if you don't have one already, go get the manual. You really need it, at least for the torque specs for your fasteners.

Chris

Last edited by cjburr; 13th March 2007 at 10:31.. Reason: add a step
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Old 11th March 2007
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Great write up Chris. Great pictures. I made it a sticky thread.

One thing to add is that if the spring on the hex plate is not attached, make certain it is not damaged. Also when re-installing the derby cover, make sure you get that spring back in recessed area in the center of the derby cover. Because if it is cocked, it'll snap that sping and the little pieces tend to get stuck in the stator.
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Old 11th March 2007
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Nice writeup Chris!
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Old 11th March 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shu View Post
Great write up Chris. Great pictures. I made it a sticky thread.

One thing to add is that if the spring on the hex plate is not attached, make certain it is not damaged. Also when re-installing the derby cover, make sure you get that spring back in recessed area in the center of the derby cover. Because if it is cocked, it'll snap that sping and the little pieces tend to get stuck in the stator.
Too true Mr. Shu, thank you, I also edited it to tell him to put the bike on a lift so it is upright and he shouldn't lose any fluid when he takes the inspection cover off.

With the bike upright it would be a good time to check the fluid level also. The fluid level should be just below the bottom edge of the inspection cover hole with the bike upright.

Last edited by cjburr; 11th March 2007 at 17:58..
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Another note: If you don't have a custom derby cover, mark the top screw hole for re-installation, so it won't leak. They sometimes get a little warped to conform to the primary cover.
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Old 12th March 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radar View Post
Another note: If you don't have a custom derby cover, mark the top screw hole for re-installation, so it won't leak. They sometimes get a little warped to conform to the primary cover.
The derby only goes on one way due to the clutch cable hump.
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Shu,
You're right, I was thinking of the BT covers.
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