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  #11  
Old 17th January 2020
NGOT8R NGOT8R is offline
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Thanks guys! Lots of good information here. Keep it coming please.
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  #12  
Old 18th January 2020
Will1250 Will1250 is online now
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Hey NGOT8R, I recently replaced my sagging standard mounts with DS mounts and thought about filling the voids with some sort of liquid rubber but decided not to because of the cost of the stuff (here in Australia) and it looked like the way the mount went together with the pivot arm meant it would be hard to achieve in my opinion. So I obtained some hard rubber in a block form and cut it to fit the mounts. This is what I came up with:



This is the rubber block:



With the inserts in the mounts (they were an extremely tight fit):



And what they look like on the bike:





Unfortunately I cannot at this point in time tell you how they ride as the project sort of grew and the bike is not back on the road yet.

Cheers, Will
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  #13  
Old 18th January 2020
NGOT8R NGOT8R is offline
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Nice job Will1250! That looks like it will either slow or prevent the rate of sag that is typical with the stock mounts. Please let us know how well they hold up and perform once you've had a chance to test them out
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  #14  
Old 18th January 2020
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Did you Punch the bush, because cutting rubber is a bit of a bitch and certainly does not work in a wire EDM...lol.
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  #15  
Old 18th January 2020
Will1250 Will1250 is online now
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No punching involved. The rubber is too hard for that. Appropriate sized holesaws however do the job nicely. Measure carefully and allow a little oversize as the mounts have a lip that you need to push the insert past to properly get into the cavity. It is a bitch to actually get them in there. A little rubber grease and a lot of bad language involved.

Will

Last edited by Will1250; 18th January 2020 at 23:30.. Reason: spelling
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  #16  
Old 19th January 2020
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That may help with sag, however; it shouldn't change the amount of vibration at all.

Note the outer diameter is what fits inside the casting on the engine block. The next ring with the tabs on it is where it mounts to the frame. That inner hole just floats around the axle and the only movement of the rubber should be between the outer diameter and that next ring that goes in the frame. The swing arm axle mounts to the frame and it doesn't actually contact the rubber mount at all under normal operation. That's why I consider it a myth that a sagging mount affects the swing arm. There is no physical connection.
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  #17  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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I filled the stock motor mounts with 80A liquid polyurethane yesterday and they turned out beautifully! Here’s how I did it:

1. Washed and degreased the mounts using Dawn dishwashing liquid, isopropyl alcohol and a scouring pad.

2. Used a hair dryer to speed up the drying process and ensure there was no moisture present.

3. Taped the bottom of each mount to cover holes, using filament tape.

4. Inserted a 6” 1.250 OD piece of round aluminum stock into the pivot shaft hole in each rear mount. Note: Sanded rods with 1500 grit sandpaper (wrapped around the rod), while holding and twisting for 100 revolutions. Cleaned rods using brake and parts cleaner, sprayed a layer of Pledge furniture polish on sanded portion of rods, buffed with a microfiber towel, sprayed on a second coat of Pledge and wiped off excess, but did not buff the rods this time.

5. Mixed two part urethane and using a syringe, slowly filled each rear mount with 30ml of urethane and each front mount with 20ml of urethane.

6. Let mounts set for 24 hours and then removed tape and aluminum rods by turning mounts upside down and using my body weight to push down on mounts, releasing rods.

7. Wait 7 days for mounts to fully cure, or place in oven for 18 hours at 150 degrees to reach full cure.







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