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  #1  
Old 20th June 2018
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Default Timing after dynatek 2000i install

I have installed a new Dynatek 2000i coil, New DC6-5 coil, Dynatek Grey wires and the programming harness on my 1999 1200 sportster/buell top end.


I have timed it static using the static method and want to know what the difference would be by doing the dynamic timing method. I know how to do the dynamic timing, my question is more along the why and what is the difference? Why would one use one type of timing over the other? Pro's and Con's of the different methods.


I want to know what is a better way and if possible why one is preferred over the other?

A short time ago Aaron at hammer mentioned via email that there were too many variables the sportster motor and would time it statically.

So I am just trying to get a filler understanding of how the two differ and why one maybe better than the other for my scoot.


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1999 883 Hugger/1200 TS conversion,Buell domed pistons
SE XL bolt-in cams .497's
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Dynatek DC6-5 Single Fire Coul
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Bassani Road Rage 2 into 1 Long Exhaust
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  #2  
Old 20th June 2018
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I guess its difficult to use a timing light on a dual fire ?
I think the exhaust is gonna be in the way as well.
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Old 20th June 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketmangb View Post
I guess its difficult to use a timing light on a dual fire ?
I think the exhaust is gonna be in the way as well.
It's single fire now. Yes exhaust is in the way. I was thinking to swap to the old exhaust but it is a lot of time to swap the entire exhaust for a 10 minute timing job...

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Old 21st June 2018
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Can anyone explain what would make the difference between a good static timing job and a not so good one? I want to go through it again. Any tips or things to try and achieve for best results?
I am on curve 4 and when the bike is hot (200 on the oil tank dipstick. I believe I am getting detonation during acceleration and maybe during take off. Although I have my earplugs in so
I am surprised so I want to go the the static timing process again.

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Old 21st June 2018
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I checked and re-checked my static timing when I had first installed it my Dyna ignition but the reality is if you followed the instructions its darn near perfect. After that you can retard or advance the timing with the mounting screws or the programming cable which I think you said you have. If you static time it then use your cable to retard it the worst thing to happen is the number you select may be off by a 1/2 degree or even 1 degree. If you set it for 28 degrees it might really be 29 but no big deal if you still have detonation you simply retard it another degree until you get it. I had detonation when set to 4 but retarded it with the mounting screws. I bought a cable and currently have my advance set at 26. When I bought the cable I re-static timed it so I was back to the "factory" setting for TDC.
I have mine 4 or 5 years and do make slight adjustments from time to time - probably not necessary but its a labor of love searching for the perfect tune.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nutter View Post
I checked and re-checked my static timing when I had first installed it my Dyna ignition but the reality is if you followed the instructions its darn near perfect. After that you can retard or advance the timing with the mounting screws or the programming cable which I think you said you have. If you static time it then use your cable to retard it the worst thing to happen is the number you select may be off by a 1/2 degree or even 1 degree. If you set it for 28 degrees it might really be 29 but no big deal if you still have detonation you simply retard it another degree until you get it. I had detonation when set to 4 but retarded it with the mounting screws. I bought a cable and currently have my advance set at 26. When I bought the cable I re-static timed it so I was back to the "factory" setting for TDC.
I have mine 4 or 5 years and do make slight adjustments from time to time - probably not necessary but its a labor of love searching for the perfect tune.
Thanks for the tips. I have to find a copy of windows 7 to redo my laptop so can install the curve maker software. I installed a chrome OS on it for my kids and can't find a windows disk to restore it.
If memory serves me correct, once you use the curve maker software the switches are of no use. Am I correct?

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Old 22nd June 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jordan1200 View Post
Thanks for the tips. I have to find a copy of windows 7 to redo my laptop so can install the curve maker software. I installed a chrome OS on it for my kids and can't find a windows disk to restore it.
If memory serves me correct, once you use the curve maker software the switches are of no use. Am I correct?

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After programming you cannot make changes with the switches - However, you can connect with cable and select to revert back to using the switches. I like my cable because you can tune out detonation at certain RPMs. It doesn't have to be a straight line or symmetrical curve. Every change I make or try a new curve I name it with the date and sometimes the time. You cannot plug in and see which curve is loaded. Their instruction sheet says this is to prevent someone from stealing your tune at the racetrack. You can see the info for each curve you have in the software but not which one you are currently running.
It's a bit antiquated software and not compatible with my android tablet or phone but I still have fun with it.
I have probably tried over 100 curves over the last few years so I am familiar with how to navigate the software - feel free to ask any questions and I will answer if I can.

Jay
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Old 22nd June 2018
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Thanks

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