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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 20th July 2018
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Head identification (from DD) has been added to the Sportsterpedia here:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...identification

The history section also has some 73 changes including the L73 top end changes: http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/s...ection19701979
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  #12  
Old 20th July 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dilligaff1956 View Post
Ok. I'm joining in on an old convetsation...
this should clear up any confusion on what you need; have a look at this old conversation here...
[url]http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5133944[/url

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  #13  
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Yep, that's the thread referenced in the Sportsterpedia.
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  #14  
Old 20th July 2018
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WOW. Thanks for the info. Still confused. I need to order new head gasket. Trying to figure out how i can test how true the head or jug is as i definitely have a leak . I'm not rich. The shops out here in Edmonton want about 1 to 2 G just to do the top end. Its turning into a love/hate thing with this ride. But good excuse to get away from the wife of 35 years. Sorry got to work on the bike.
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  #15  
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put the head back on the cylinder with no gasket, then see if you can get a feeler gauge to go in at any point around the joint. about .010" feeler is good. it's important to clean all the carbon off the fire ring and the grove it mates with in the head, and make sure the gasket surfaces are nice and clean and no big nicks/gouges. heads can be lapped to cylinders with lapping paste if they're not very bad, otherwise best left to a machinist to finish the surfaces.
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you can't tell the difference between '72-e73 and Late 73 by the drain hole size,they're the same.look at the head bolt holes in your cylinders. '72-e73 threads come all the way up to top of the cylinder.L73>threads stop about 3/8'' below the top of the head surface.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
put the head back on the cylinder with no gasket, then see if you can get a feeler gauge to go in at any point around the joint. about .010" feeler is good. it's important to clean all the carbon off the fire ring and the grove it mates with in the head, and make sure the gasket surfaces are nice and clean and no big nicks/gouges. heads can be lapped to cylinders with lapping paste if they're not very bad, otherwise best left to a machinist to finish the surfaces.
+1 doodah, spot on.
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