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  #1  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
frito1 frito1 is offline
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Default Trouble codes

'07 XL low. So I stop and fuel up on the way home from work one day this week. A mile of so down the road the engine light and battery light come on. I stop and give everything a cursory once over and don't spot anything obvious. I take off and a few seconds later the lights come back on. It's hot so I say screw it and take off for home 20 miles away. I get home stash the bike and go to the FSM. I study about codes and find out why they came back after a few seconds and how to retrieve the codes present. Everything is normal except for P0562 and P0563, high and low voltage. Today I start trying to see what is going on. I checked the battery terminals and the ground to engine. I started pulling fuses and relays just to look and found most of them had corrosion present. I cleaned all of them and applied a healthy dose of dielectric grease. I tried to clear the codes, but no joy. I decide to fire it up and see what happens, but evidently I killed the battery coming home. ~10 volts as it sets and won't do anything but chatter the solenoid. The battery is 5 months old and not really suspect in my mind. So i'm charging it up to see what happens tomorrow. It's in the back of my mind that the regulator is suspect since it was tampered with shortly after I bought this bike with ~1500 miles last year. It had an open recall for a regulator re-positioning bracket. Probably nothing, but a coincidence.

Ideas as to why the codes can't be cleared?
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  #2  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
DFuller1980 DFuller1980 is offline
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Default

Could be the rectifier/regular or the stater or both. Heat is what usually kills the reg/rec I would unplug where the stator comes into the reg/rec and check for voltage. Set your meter to AC and fire the bike up. It will usually give you a high AC voltage that will spike when the engine is revved. If the stator is putting out I would suspect the reg/rec box. Codes that can't be cleared or come back immediately are hard codes meaning there is a hard fault somewhere that needs to be addressed. If the bike isn't charging that would be why the codes can't be cleared. If it is the rectifier then check the battery really closely. When they go bad is stupid east to take the battery out to. Actually pull it and look and make sure it's not swelled up. Good luck.

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  #3  
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When you're having issues with the electrical system, use this Sportsterpedia section about
checking the battery cables, voltages and grounds - DO THIS BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...place_to_start

Do a thorough check of the battery voltages and grounds PLUS the critical factor of the Powertrain Ground...

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the circuit breakers, relays & charging system:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...harging_system

If the fuses were corroded, you may want to replace the relays (preventative maintenance even if they are functioning)...

Sportsterpedia - Check your Alternator/Stator

Be sure the battery is being charged by the bike...


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  #4  
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Good advice given, your F.S.M. Will give you the testing for your stator and regulator. A glance into “Sportsterpedia” may prove helpful as well.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frito1 View Post
Ideas as to why the codes can't be cleared?
Because the fault causing them is still present?
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Old 3 Weeks Ago
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If your battery had 10 volts, after you cleared the codes, the P0562 would be back right away.

DTC P0562 is displayed when battery voltage is less than
12.2V at idle and voltage does not increase when engine
speed is greater than 2000 rpm.

DTC P0563 is displayed when battery voltage is greater
than 15.0V for more than 4 seconds.

DTC P0562 and P0563
Any of the following conditions could cause these DTCs to set:
• The vehicle is placed on a battery charger, on fast charge,
for a long period of time.
• The charging system is malfunctioning.
• There is excessive battery draw and/or extended idling in
heavy traffic.
• A faulty system ground is present.
Low voltage generally indicates a loose wire, corroded connections,
battery and/or a charging system problem.
High voltage DTC may set when the vehicle is placed on a
battery charger, for a long period of time.
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After you think you've repaired the problem, you still have to clear the codes individually. If the problem still exists, the code will come back.

Instructions for Pre 2014 Harley Models:

Get Into DTC Viewing Mode:

Press and hold the odometer button in (can be located in different positions depending on your model/year)
While holding odometer button in, turn ignition to “on” position
Keep holding the odometer button in until you see “diAG” appear in the odometer window
Release the odometer button and you are in the DTC viewing mode

Viewing and clearing DTC's: (Clear codes at your own risk)(Make sure you know what you are doing or consult a Harley mechanic)

Press & release the odometer button to enter the DTC mode module
Press & release the odometer button to cycle through the different modules
To check any module press & hold the odometer button until it enters
If it says “none” then that module has no DTC's
If it says “yes” then press & release the odometer button to get the DTC
You will also have an option to “clear” the code
Press & release the odometer button again and it cycles to the HD part number for that module
Press & release the odometer button and it cycles back to the main module
Continue as stated above to continue to check each module for DTC's
Turn ignition off to exit DTC mode
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Default

Thanks to all for the input. Forrest for the trees. I didn't realize battery voltage was 10 until after trying to reset the codes. Duh.

So I charged the battery overnight and now I have 12.7 volts. Key on I have 12.5. The bike starts effortlessly. Engine idling I have 12.38 and @ an estimated 2.5-3K rpm I have a whopping 12.4. Not what I wanted to see. Back to the FSM for reference. Stator passes the resistance test. Just because it's easy access and I'd done it before long ago to my first HD, a FXR shovel, I did a AC output test. Woo hoo, I have voltage to spare. 30-40 AC at idle and increasing smoothly with engine RPM. Now the regulator is certainly in the suspect category. Never felt of a regulator while the the engine was running, but it's on the lift and accessible so why not. It's hot as a two dollar pistol. Normal or not? I dunno.

I'm going to hit the Sportsterpedia and check more connections since I had this thing scattered about doing the 1250 kit a while back. I'm gonna try to make sure the regulator is truly at fault before putting out the $$ for a new one.
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DFuller1980 DFuller1980 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frito1 View Post
Thanks to all for the input. Forrest for the trees. I didn't realize battery voltage was 10 until after trying to reset the codes. Duh.

So I charged the battery overnight and now I have 12.7 volts. Key on I have 12.5. The bike starts effortlessly. Engine idling I have 12.38 and @ an estimated 2.5-3K rpm I have a whopping 12.4. Not what I wanted to see. Back to the FSM for reference. Stator passes the resistance test. Just because it's easy access and I'd done it before long ago to my first HD, a FXR shovel, I did a AC output test. Woo hoo, I have voltage to spare. 30-40 AC at idle and increasing smoothly with engine RPM. Now the regulator is certainly in the suspect category. Never felt of a regulator while the the engine was running, but it's on the lift and accessible so why not. It's hot as a two dollar pistol. Normal or not? I dunno.

I'm going to hit the Sportsterpedia and check more connections since I had this thing scattered about doing the 1250 kit a while back. I'm gonna try to make sure the regulator is truly at fault before putting out the $$ for a new one.
It will get hot because it's coming down the voltage to something the battery can handle but could be a sign of something gone sideways if its super hot really quick. I'd go threw and do all the appropriate testing on the regulator. It always feels good when you are able to narrow things down relatively easy. Process of elimination is always the best way for sure.

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  #10  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
frito1 frito1 is offline
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Just got a me new regulator from Surdyke in Festus, MO. USPS screwed the pooch on this one. It went from Festus, to Southhaven MS, to Little Rock AR, and when it should have turned back towards NE Arkansas, it went to Tulsa OK for a little sight seeing. Any way it's installed and all is normal. Correct charging voltage at all RPM's. In the process I got a -A version of the regulator that has the fins cut out to avoid the fender of the Low. As my local dealer wrench told me I could if I ever updated the regulator, I was able to toss the scabbed on relocation bracket and bolt it up direct.
I got the codes reset after I figured out that I needed to reset them individually rather that as a group. The FSM wasn't terribly clear as to the procedure. Another $99 thrown in to the MC money pit, but I'm back on the road.
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