Yes, you can hand splash glitter on the wet base.
Let it get tacky and gently push the glitter particles flush to the surface.
Clear coat everything together and wet sand, repeat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan1976
So my questions are .
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No trade secrets here, just a notepad of previous screw-ups.
1. It can if the base materials don't like each other.
If they don't, the liquid will coagulate when mixed.
So you probably already know that answer based off what happened when you mixed it.
2. Yes.
Wet sand with 400 or above with running water over the piece in a very light fashion.
It'll take the high spots off.
It'd be good to have a sponge type sanding block since it'll hit the high spots harder and you don't spend so much energy on the lower part of those spots.
Too much and you'll remove the rest in small layers though.
Runs are usually thick and by the time you've cut the high spot, you've also thinned out out the rest you've been running over.
But you can always reshoot once the highs are taken off.
Best to not get the runs...
3. I like to paint around 70F - 80F.
Below 50F is not recommended by most manufs I believe.
But keep in mind that the drying time depends on above 50 also.
The warmer it is, the faster the paint gasses off and the curing begins.
So near 50, you'll probably have to wait longer for it to dry depending on how thick the layers are.
4. Depends on what finish you are going for.
For baby's ass smooth, it's good to go with the finer grits.
I've done well with 800-1000 and have used 1500 as well.
Use whatever you feel you need based on the progression.
Once you clear coat, you cannot change the texture of the base coat.
5. Honestly, I've wet sanded with 400 between coats without problems.
Even with 1500 wet sanding, you can still cut back down to the base.
I guess the moral is there is no 'best' but just what works.
You can start off with 600-1000 and see what how that works.
Unless there are imperfections you want to take out, all you're doing is creating a surface for the next coat.