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  #301  
Old 22nd May 2019
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The sticker with the 5 (five speed) was actually used from 91-94 with different colors in it.
According to the parts books, 91 didn't have a black and orange but 92-93 did.
But I have ran across instances in the parts books where a new part in the book is actually a replacement for the previous year model also.
Plus some changes occurred in between years.
So it could also be 91 but I was just trying to nail down the color.
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  #302  
Old 25th May 2019
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Ok thanks again.
The tank looks
Looks like it has some black specks in it in the shade.



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  #303  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Ok to start Im a rookie with painting.I sanded my front and rear fenders down to bare metal. I the used primer with filler and sanded them down smooth. Sunday I mixed the paint. I wanted some flake in it and could not buy any in this one horse town. So I bought a can of spray paint with flake in it and mixed it with the base coat. So my questions are .

1. will mixing in the spay paint cause any issues?

2. I sprayed a little heavy in a spot or two and have some runs can I just sand them down?

3. It was in the mid 50's when I did the base coat now more than 24hrs later the paint is still tacky should I have waited for a warmer day? (I have a heat lamp hanging over them now)

4. Before clear coat do I wet sand the color with about 1500 grit?

5. When doing the clear what is the best grit to use between coats?

Im reading this thread slowly so you may have already answered some of the questions also Im supposed to be working right now SHHHHH lol. Thank you
in advance . I really respect that you are going out of your way to teach your trade.
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  #304  
Old 1 Week Ago
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You could check the Walmart craft isle for glitter.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sulyn-2-5-...itter/36794405
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  #305  
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Yes, you can hand splash glitter on the wet base.
Let it get tacky and gently push the glitter particles flush to the surface.
Clear coat everything together and wet sand, repeat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan1976 View Post
So my questions are .
No trade secrets here, just a notepad of previous screw-ups.


1. It can if the base materials don't like each other.
If they don't, the liquid will coagulate when mixed.
So you probably already know that answer based off what happened when you mixed it.

2. Yes.
Wet sand with 400 or above with running water over the piece in a very light fashion.
It'll take the high spots off.
It'd be good to have a sponge type sanding block since it'll hit the high spots harder and you don't spend so much energy on the lower part of those spots.
Too much and you'll remove the rest in small layers though.
Runs are usually thick and by the time you've cut the high spot, you've also thinned out out the rest you've been running over.
But you can always reshoot once the highs are taken off.
Best to not get the runs...

3. I like to paint around 70F - 80F.
Below 50F is not recommended by most manufs I believe.
But keep in mind that the drying time depends on above 50 also.
The warmer it is, the faster the paint gasses off and the curing begins.
So near 50, you'll probably have to wait longer for it to dry depending on how thick the layers are.

4. Depends on what finish you are going for.
For baby's ass smooth, it's good to go with the finer grits.
I've done well with 800-1000 and have used 1500 as well.
Use whatever you feel you need based on the progression.
Once you clear coat, you cannot change the texture of the base coat.

5. Honestly, I've wet sanded with 400 between coats without problems.
Even with 1500 wet sanding, you can still cut back down to the base.
I guess the moral is there is no 'best' but just what works.
You can start off with 600-1000 and see what how that works.
Unless there are imperfections you want to take out, all you're doing is creating a surface for the next coat.
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  #306  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
Yes, you can hand splash glitter on the wet base.

Let it get tacky and gently push the glitter particles flush to the surface.

Clear coat everything together and wet sand, repeat.

Or, you can simply mix it into your clear and spray it. I have a cabinet full of different “Metalflake” flake and metalic add ins. In the early days when it wasn’t available or I couldn’t afford it I visited the craft stores.
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  #307  
Old 1 Week Ago
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It’s not the greatest picture but you can see the flake came out ok. Well I think so. It was a 5.99 can of spray paint mixed with ACME Finnish coach black.


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  #308  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1skullster1 View Post
Or, you can simply mix it into your clear and spray it. I have a cabinet full of different “Metalflake” flake and metalic add ins. In the early days when it wasn’t available or I couldn’t afford it I visited the craft stores.
True.
Some nozzles and pressures will give varying results though.
You'd just have to experiment first.
I'm not sure what he's using.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan1976 View Post
It’s not the greatest picture but you can see the flake came out ok. Well I think so. It was a 5.99 can of spray paint mixed with ACME Finnish coach black.

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That looks good.
Now you got me wanting to get started on my truck.
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  #309  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
True.

Some nozzles and pressures will give varying results though.

You'd just have to experiment first.

I'm not sure what he's using.







That looks good.

Now you got me wanting to get started on my truck.


I’m using a gun that is probably 20 years older than I am don’t know what model it is just know it was a sears item


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  #310  
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Hahahah.
Good ole Sears and Roebuck.
Looks like it served it's purpose.
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