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  #21  
Old 23rd September 2018
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I'd take another look at the stator... Very carefully looking for burn spots or a fray in the cable... It seems certain that something in that cavity is not right...

If you replace the stator, it would give you the opportunity to upgrade to a higher output....

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32252

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  #22  
Old 23rd September 2018
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What is the history of your primary fluid?
a. what type?
b. frequency of changes?

This may explain why I am asking: http://xlforum.net/forums/archive/in...t-1937420.html

Burnt motor windings do stink.
I would flush the primary, change the stator and put in fresh primary fluid.

Look for a stator connection partially shorting to ground, overloading the stator.
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  #23  
Old 1st October 2018
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The previous owner said fluid was changed every 5,000 miles (I don't recall what he used, though), but I don't have any way of confirming that. Since I've had it, I change it at the recommended service interval or once a year (whichever comes first).

The smell was definitely coming from the stator. I replaced it yesterday and one of the wires going into the stator was almost completely corroded. As soon as I touched it, it crumbled. The bike runs great now with no smell. One last question, though. I had replaced my regulator with a Motoelectrix unit about two months ago. I noticed that the warranty card for the Cycle Electrics stator says that using a regulator not from CE voids the warranty. The bike seems to be running great right now, but should I replace the regulator again with one from CE? Will I damage the new stator if I continue to use my current regulator? I'd hate to have to drop another $100, but if it means not having to replace the stator again, it would be worth it....
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  #24  
Old 1st October 2018
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Glad you found it - the locations where wires pass through metal require close inspection for shorts... It's likely that the vibrations fatigued the insulation, causing a low-grade short, which heated the wire, which caused insulation breakdown & the corrosion of the wire...


The precaution by CE related to using their regulator is likely just that - a precaution against users that make a bad selection of regulator...

I'm not familiar with Motoelectrix, but if they have a decent reputation, I'd expect that regulator to work just fine with the CE Stator - What was the warranty period on the stator?

I doubt there is a good technical reason to demand no other regulator except theirs, but you need to evaluate how much you value their warranty...

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  #25  
Old 1st October 2018
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Which model are you running?
https://motoelectrix.com/collections...age-regulators

I have no previous exposure to Motoelectix, but CE does not waste unused current to ground...the stator is not fully loaded at all times.

http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/RECTIFIER.html#CE-200
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  #26  
Old 2nd October 2018
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Here is the link for the regulator I bought.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Reg...ty!45102!US!-1
It's off of his ebay store. His store has really positive reviews and he has a long selling history.
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  #27  
Old 2nd October 2018
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well they want to sell a regulator
truth told, THEY have to prove that another regulator fried the winding.
ever read your vehicle books, do they not always recommend their product with threat that use of others is a no-no!
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Old 2nd October 2018
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I see no issue with continuing to use the Motoelectrix regulator, if the failing stator did not damage it. If it is 13.8 to 14.8 VDC above 2,000/2,500 RPMs, then it should be fine.

Make sure your primary fluid is not corrosive to the stator windings. That was one reason why I simply used H-D primary fluid.

If replacing a regulator, I would prefer Cycle Electric as it reduces stator load. May not make much difference due to engine/clutch/primary chain heat, but I like the principle of operation.
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  #29  
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I'm with Sportster Doc on the CE Regulator. My stator fried at 20,000 miles, and left me stranded with a dead battery(luckily not far from home). Just the idea of a constant load on the stator has me not liking that design. No problems since the replacement of the CE regulator or the Stator. Not a job i would want to do often though, Lol.
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  #30  
Old 1 Week Ago
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the newer switch mode regulators do have advantages but there is a great amount of HYPE to sell them.
sure the hd regulator is marginally built to save $$$$ but they are quite good as thousands are on the road. when my stator went bad, i used the same original one since new in 2001, still kicking!
it has been posted here before but the stator is not continually loaded. the stock regulator has a flip/flop type of power control and when not biased on, can not conduct any current so the stator is in limbo. the ONLY time excess current is sent to ground is when the safety circuit is activated and primarily bleeds AC to ground to pull down excess charge voltage to protect the regulator and this occurs mainly when rpm is high, under normal loading, this circuit is idle.


clip and paste:

Here are two typical circuits for the hd regulator. There are variations depending upon which one is used. Hd buys their regulators from over-seas but they work basically the same. There are basically three elements: #1 rectification, #2 regulation and #3 protection.
#1 the ac from the pmg is rectified via a dual diode full wave setup or a bridge setup. Note that the dual diode full wave must have a center tapped coil to work properly unlike the bridge.
#2 the now rectified ac is a pulsed dc wave form and the regulation circuit converts this to a smooth out put and is usually controlled by a zener diode in this case a zdp 13 which has a range of 12.4 to 14.1 volts. The on/off controls the gate to the scr. The out put of the regulator turns on/off the power scr’s in a flip/flop fashion. Interestingly, instead of using a larger single scr, this circuit splits the load and smaller scr’s can be used since the power is in half and on time is reduced which equals less heat. Note that an scr can not conduct unless it has a gate current so without that, no power can flow to the battery/load.
#3 the protection circuit limits the parameters so that the regulator can have a nice long life. This circuit is also controlled by a zener diode usually a zpd 47 with a range of 44 to 50 volts but sometimes you can find different values. When the zener turns on the scr circuit, they direct the over voltage to ground aka shunt.
The hd system is most effective in the 2k to 3k rpm range and as speed increases, less effective. The hd pmg is a 12 pole system and at 1k rpm, the hertz is around 100 hz so at 3k rpm, the hz would be 300 hz. Why the need for a protection circuit??? Well current is can be equated to heat so devices are sized to handle the load but there is more to it! Voltage is critical also as this is a stresser of pn junctions and even the insulating varnish of the pmg winding. Although this is factored in with usually a 400 piv rating on the devices, it still can cause problems long term. This protection circuit limits voltage build up as rpm increases and coil saturation nears. Although it does shunt current to ground to reduce voltage according to ohm’s law, this circuit is not used all the time. When cruising around at normal speeds, the electrical load usually keeps the voltage within check so that the regulator after charging the battery will carry the load with the battery making up the short fall. Remember that checking the pmg ac out put is open ended aka no load. If you add load, the voltage reading will come down.

Last edited by bustert; 1 Week Ago at 17:15..
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