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  #11  
Old 22nd May 2019
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LLOYD883 LLOYD883 is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chief100 View Post
I have the shop manual and crit fasteners is on the list for this weekend. Wheels are torqued properly from the tire change. I have some belray 20w fork oil I was going to use on the dyna I wrecked. Is 20w good for the sporty? As far as the change I was going to do the measure oil in oil out - but I think I'll get a turkey baster and measure the air pocket. Is getting the spring back in that difficult?
If you jack the bike up so the front wheel is off the ground (forks fully extended) fill the oil to the measurement specified in the manual. With forks fully extended like this it's not really that hard to get the caps back on, depending on the length of the preload spacer. I don't think there is a spacer with the stock springs but there is with Progressive springs. The spacer supplied with the Progressive springs I put in is not long enough to make it difficult, but if you need to add preload, the longer the spacer is, the more difficult it becomes.
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  #12  
Old 23rd May 2019
boomerguy boomerguy is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toejam503 View Post
Oil level is 5.75" from the top of the fork head. The manual says 11.6oz* of fork oil, but I don't know if this is for new or rebuilt or for a fork oil change.
*each fork leg
"Blue Bible" says 11 oz per side. I drained 10 oz from each side, figuring there was 1 oz residual left on the walls. I replaced 10 oz and it came to the original level.
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  #13  
Old 23rd May 2019
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Just break down and replace the rear master cylinder so you dont get a surprise later
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  #14  
Old 23rd May 2019
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I've always lifted my front end for fork work and never had trouble getting the caps on. Pressing down without the front end floating is near impossible. You compress the spring with the cap and with the suspension absorbing you leaning on it. Just adds to the problem. On mine, with it in the air, the preload spacers barely extend out of the forks. Super easy to get caps in there and they never kick out on me when removing either.

And oil level by distance from full is much more reliable than by volume added. I shove a drinking straw in the end of my mightyvac hose, mark the level I want on the straw and just suck it back out after an intentional (slight) overfill. Quick, easy, very repeatable, and I get to use a tool I already have rather than paying progressive/moose/motionpro/etc for what is essentially the same tool. Much easier to tweak things later too if you need more/less.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketmangb View Post
Just break down and replace the rear master cylinder so you dont get a surprise later
Mine magic'd itself back to life after refusing to bleed and appearing completely dead on multiple occasions, but yes, definitely this. They're garbage quality and they die easily. Best to have another or at least a rebuild kit handy. I swapped to an 07+ just because I wanted to run DOT 4 front and back after the front conversion, but I think they're equally unreliable long term.
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  #15  
Old 23rd May 2019
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Down the line you should remove the clutch spring plate AKA grenade plate, LOTS of info here on this and various fixes are posted at http://xlforum.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=35
but you should have plenty of time, failures are generally at much higher mileage

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  #16  
Old 23rd May 2019
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Thats a big Do It Now !
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  #17  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Clutch I am planning to do this winter with the low miles hoping it will be ok until then. Rear brake master cyl - is this a rebuild situation or whole thing need replaced? I flushed out the front and rear with new dot 5 and everything seems well.
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  #18  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerguy View Post
"Blue Bible" says 11 oz per side. I drained 10 oz from each side, figuring there was 1 oz residual left on the walls. I replaced 10 oz and it came to the original level.
I was quoting the 2004-2006 specs. from the FSM.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Default Master Cyl

Quote:
Originally Posted by chief100 View Post
Clutch I am planning to do this winter with the low miles hoping it will be ok until then. Rear brake master cyl - is this a rebuild situation or whole thing need replaced? I flushed out the front and rear with new dot 5 and everything seems well.
You can rebuild it but.
The kit is around 38.00 and a new cylinder is like 64.00
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  #20  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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I replaced the fork oil last night with belray 20 - took it to work today and don't really notice much of a difference. It is possible it was changed before as the smell wasn't bad as some others have mentioned. Just smelled like gear oil. thanks everyone for their help!
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