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  #21  
Old 21st June 2018
IXL2Relax's Avatar
IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Your question prompted me make a diagram and try to explain the Idle & Transfer operation theory... Let me see where to put that and I'll post a link here as well...
OK - I updated the Sportsterpedia CV40 Carb section to include a rather lengthy description of the Idle & Transfer Ports Operation:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t..._tuning_advice

In that, is this answer to your question:
While the proper idle rpm will be set AFTER adjusting the IMS setting (using the Idle Speed Screw), it is important to isolate the Idle Port operation from the Transfer Ports. If we allow the Transfer Ports to contribute fuel while setting the IMS, we are contaminating the purity of the Idle Port operation by doing so. We want the IMS set correctly for Idle operation and the Transfer Ports to remain outside of the Idle operation in order that the Tranfer Ports will ACTUALLY be available and effective during the Transfer operation. If the Transfer Ports are already active during Idle, they cannot properly add fuel to the consumed mix when transitioning between Idle & Mid-range throttle operation.



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  #22  
Old 21st June 2018
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robistro robistro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
OK - I updated the Sportsterpedia CV40 Carb section to include a rather lengthy description of the Idle & Transfer Ports Operation:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t..._tuning_advice

In that, is this answer to your question:
While the proper idle rpm will be set AFTER adjusting the IMS setting (using the Idle Speed Screw), it is important to isolate the Idle Port operation from the Transfer Ports. If we allow the Transfer Ports to contribute fuel while setting the IMS, we are contaminating the purity of the Idle Port operation by doing so. We want the IMS set correctly for Idle operation and the Transfer Ports to remain outside of the Idle operation in order that the Tranfer Ports will ACTUALLY be available and effective during the Transfer operation. If the Transfer Ports are already active during Idle, they cannot properly add fuel to the consumed mix when transitioning between Idle & Mid-range throttle operation.



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Thanks for taking the time to explain with a diagram IXL , very helpful to see a picture with descriptions.
__________________________________________________ _____
Question - to be sure Im clear on this... "Check Accelerator pump - Twist throttle, see that it squirts directly at main needle"

The fuel should be hitting the slide needle? if so, mine is pointed off to the right of it.
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  #23  
Old 5th July 2018
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*UPDATE*
I 'think' I might have this issue solved. A few variables, trial and error, and a leaning experience.

1- replaced the carb with another CV since I could not find anyplace to order the choke plate (180/45 jets) with the cvp needle advertised as 'no shims needed' which by the way were the same jets and needle in the old carb.

2 - bike immediately idled better with the new carb. Let it warm up adjusted air/fuel screw, set idle speed and took for a ride. Bike popped, backfired out of exhaust which it didnt do before. adjusting a/f did not solve the popping and the new problem now backfiring through exhaust - mostly on decel.

3 - returned to garage let cool down with thoughts of tossing carb in the river and getting a mikuni going through my mind

4 - thought f - it...cant hurt, Im tossing in a 48 jet. Put in jet let it warm up and again fiddled with idle speed and a/f and took off. carb popped a couple times on accel but no backfiring through exhaust. story cut short, I ended up with the a/f 2-3/4 turns out with the 48 jet and seems to have cured my problem.

Bike now idles smooth and does not pop or backfire. Im convinced that the 'chip' in the throttle plate near the transport holes definately played a role in my problems as well as the 42 and 45 jets.
Still doesnt make sense that it required a 48 jet, but I also think that the differences in accelerator pump housings and cover possibly affect this as well.

All help appreciated!
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  #24  
Old 6th July 2018
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Good to hear you're running again... but...

When you have to go to a 48 Slow Jet, it often means there's an air leak somewhere that is being compensated for by the larger fuel jet...

Air Leaks can be:
At the Manifold to Head (two cylinders)
At the Manifold to Carb (CV alignment to manifold)
In the Vacuum Line to Petcock

Keep an eye on the plugs... They should be burning equally & NOT white...

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  #25  
Old 6th July 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Good to hear you're running again... but...

When you have to go to a 48 Slow Jet, it often means there's an air leak somewhere that is being compensated for by the larger fuel jet...

Air Leaks can be:
At the Manifold to Head (two cylinders)
At the Manifold to Carb (CV alignment to manifold)
In the Vacuum Line to Petcock

Keep an eye on the plugs... They should be burning equally & NOT white...

IXL _ ___ _____ _______ >>>> My Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<<
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Your correct - after riding yesterday evening I checked for intake leaks and still have one near the front cylinder. (after having it 'repaired')
But - the bike runs much better than before.
I need a break from taking it apart - I'll have it fixed... AGAIN

Maybe I'll do it myself this time, but from reading about it, they're a pain to get to and its tough to get anything fixed myself when at work all week.
I'd hate to have it partially apart and not be able to get out one of the intake studs or something stupid happen.
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  #26  
Old 6th July 2018
sporty05 sporty05 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robistro View Post
Before I post I want to say thanks to all for helping solve other issues I've posted.

I have a carb pop/hesitation but only when I accelerate from a stop. (This does not occur all the time)
I've read through multiple posts trying to solve, so far the gremlin cant be found.
2004 XLC w/cv carb 7k miles bike has been sitting
Things I did fix:
Crank Position Sensor
Plug Wires
Intake Leak
Rebuilt Carb
Rejetted 180/45 - put on s&s teardrop ac

turning out the fuel/mix screw does nothing

Im suspecting either the new slide diaphram, accelerator pump

Any info appreciated that might help shed some light
I had this issue for a long time, especially on cold starts, everyone said when you put the scremin eagle kit on you had to re jet, no problem, tried them all, didnt do anything with the main jet, only the slow jet. Came stock with a 42, wayyy to small. plugs were white, no good. People will say theres an intake leak, vacuum leak, so forth, but what eventually cured it was a 50 slow jet, did that, carefully adjusted the air mixture, no more carb farts. Plugs now look good, not white but not black either. 05 sportster. Everything I see on adjusting air mixture starts from turning all the way off to start and stopping when the idle smooths out. before anyone jumps me for saying use a bigger jet, the boots are all new, as is the intake gaskets, it idles better than it ever did and its never liked cold weather. It doesnt run rich as far as I can tell. So unless it came from factory with a vacuum leak I really don't see a problem with a bigger jet.
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  #27  
Old 6th July 2018
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robistro robistro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sporty05 View Post
I had this issue for a long time, especially on cold starts, everyone said when you put the scremin eagle kit on you had to re jet, no problem, tried them all, didnt do anything with the main jet, only the slow jet. Came stock with a 42, wayyy to small. plugs were white, no good. People will say theres an intake leak, vacuum leak, so forth, but what eventually cured it was a 50 slow jet, did that, carefully adjusted the air mixture, no more carb farts. Plugs now look good, not white but not black either. 05 sportster. Everything I see on adjusting air mixture starts from turning all the way off to start and stopping when the idle smooths out. before anyone jumps me for saying use a bigger jet, the boots are all new, as is the intake gaskets, it idles better than it ever did and its never liked cold weather. It doesnt run rich as far as I can tell. So unless it came from factory with a vacuum leak I really don't see a problem with a bigger jet.
Nice to hear from someone having the same problem.

After checking AGAIN...the intake leak that I swear I have, apparently disappeared or if it does its very small and I cant locate it.
I checked again using propane and cant find anything.
I think that the carb cleaner overspray was getting sucked into the air cleaner giving me a 'false' intake leak.

Im tired of checking and re-checking things. At this point Im just going ride!
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  #28  
Old 7th July 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bored now View Post
If I remember correctly HD identified this as a issue with the timing settings that affected the 04-06 bikes, you may wish to check if there is a new flash for your bike available from the dealer. Mine was the same even when I changed to a Mikuni 42.

Found it here on the forum.

See here
forgot to mention this one earlier... I asked the dealer about this and the service tech at the dealer said the 04 doesnt have an ICM to flash.
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