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  #1  
Old 27th August 2016
cfijdman cfijdman is offline
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Question Head Removal

I am ready to begin a top end job on my '74 with the engine in the bike and have a couple of questions.
1. How to you get a wrench on the right side head bolts of the rear jug to break them loose with the rocker box in place and conversely how to you torque them when reassembling? My bike has 12-point 7/16" head bolts which may not be stock based on another thread I have looked at.
2. Should I use new head bolts when I reassemble?
3. Any advice on other things to be aware of or to look for while doing a top end job would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 27th August 2016
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bustert bustert is offline
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several ways. the use of a 12pt box wrench through side, limited access. use a ball swivel, not a cardigan joint swivel and socket, 3/8 drive. sometimes removing box bolts and shifting cover allows more access.
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  #3  
Old 27th August 2016
MXHD55U MXHD55U is offline
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Pull the push rod tubes and push rods will allow you to get a wrench in to the bolt.
you got stock head bolts for a 74
I have no problem with reusing head bolts unless you find the heads of the bolts damaged and the shafts extremely rusty
When you remove the cylinders pull them up slightly and stuff a rag in the cases so any debris like carbon or broken rings won't end up in the cases

Let us know what you find.

You will have a tremendous satisfaction in being able to rebuild that top end when its's done and you it fire up. You will be joining the ranks of thousands that came before going back generations that did their own motor work whether out of monetary necessity or because they just wanted the experience
good luck

MX
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  #4  
Old 28th August 2016
cfijdman cfijdman is offline
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Thanks for the tips guys. I wondered about going in from the side or loosening the rocker box. Hadn't thought of the ball swivel. Might check into buying one.
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  #5  
Old 28th August 2016
valvebeater valvebeater is offline
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V-Twin Mfg. sells a special made socket holder wrench that, along with a good quality socket, allows easy access to the right side head bolts.
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  #6  
Old 28th August 2016
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is online now
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FWIW, going in from the side with a 12 point box end wrench seemed to work better for me. But that's just me. I tried both 7/16" & 11mm. Found the 11mm worked a little better than 7/16".

If you're new to this..... I can only suggest take pictures (a ton of pictures) before you dismantle each component...... and then mark each component and it's exact location as it comes off. You'll find it invaluable when the time comes to putting it back together. Throwing stuff in a basket, gets you a basket case.

You'll probably also need something to remove wrist pins. I made this tool on the cheap, from pics others have shared.



And the tool in action:




Last edited by The Doctor71; 13th February 2018 at 05:42.. Reason: updated links to pics - trashed PB
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Old 28th August 2016
cfijdman cfijdman is offline
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Like the wrist pin removal tool and the tip about 11 mm vs 7/16. I am already big into pictures and bagging and labeling parts. Thanks for the tips and the reminder.
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  #8  
Old 28th August 2016
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Hey that piston looks brand new compared to most pistons I see coming out of Ironheads!
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  #9  
Old 28th August 2016
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
Hey that piston looks brand new compared to most pistons I see coming out of Ironheads!
Well almost new , ryder rick.... motor had about 11,000 miles on it at the time. Bike had sat unused for about 12 years when I bought it. Bad news was after de-hibernating the motor, it was going thru 2 quarts of oil in 150 miles.

Went thru the top end & couldn't find anything wrong / outta place. Replaced the rings with a Hastings Moly set, with 3 piece oil ring. Wow, what a difference. Oil usage is negligible now. Only conclusion I could draw was --> the original 2 piece oil rings must be garbage. Sitting for 12 years didn't help either I guess.
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Old 28th August 2016
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Did you have two piece or one piece cast oil rings? The nos one piece jobbers are oil suckers!

Your tool is good, but also unnecessary. Pin should be a light hand fit at room temp. This means if you heat the piston to over 100-120 degrees, a stiff thumb should push it out. By 150 or so, it should practically fall out. A good heat gun or a propane torch to the crown will do it.

This doesn't mean you shouldn't use your tool if you like it, just another way to get the same thing done with minimal fuss.
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