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  #11  
Old 31st May 2020
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I would avoid anti seize on plug threads. If you get sloppy it shorts out the plug. Standard 30 wt oil is what I have been using since the mid 60's when working for VW. That was the factory method for keeping the #3 plug from seizing in the head (last cylinder to get the air flow and that plug was well known for seizing.)
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  #12  
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Wedge, that's a good idea.
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  #13  
Old 31st May 2020
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i just put in a set of ngk dcpr7e plugs.
i set the gap to .040
the factory plugs were starting to rust a bit.
bike has almost 5k miles.
they will be replaced every 5k miles or so.
i did not feel any difference in performance.
i dont track mpg.
i did put a tiny bit of anti sieze on them.
next time i might try oil instead?
the old ones looked fine, i saved them for emergency spares.
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  #14  
Old 31st May 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe_jeep View Post
i just put in a set of ngk dcpr7e plugs.
i set the gap to .040
the factory plugs were starting to rust a bit.
bike has almost 5k miles.
they will be replaced every 5k miles or so.
i did not feel any difference in performance.
i dont track mpg.
i did put a tiny bit of anti sieze on them.
next time i might try oil instead?
the old ones looked fine, i saved them for emergency spares.
You won't use the old plugs, I swap mine at 5000 mile intervals too. NGK DCPR7E (or 8E if the engine needs them). No need for Iridium when you swap them out regularly.
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  #15  
Old 31st May 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post
I would avoid anti seize on plug threads. If you get sloppy it shorts out the plug. Standard 30 wt oil is what I have been using since the mid 60's when working for VW. That was the factory method for keeping the #3 plug from seizing in the head (last cylinder to get the air flow and that plug was well known for seizing.)

Hear that loud and clear! Use the same method on my 72 super beetle. Only use oil on the bike spark plugs as well.


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  #16  
Old 1st June 2020
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No point not using anti-seize when you have nice unobstructed access putting the plug(s) in. Plugs are plenty easy to replace on a Sportster without getting anti-seize on the center electrode or the insulator tip.
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  #17  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcatt View Post
No point not using anti-seize when you have nice unobstructed access putting the plug(s) in. Plugs are plenty easy to replace on a Sportster without getting anti-seize on the center electrode or the insulator tip.
I know someone who said that once.

He had plenty of time to rethink that approach as he sat by the side of the road. (Actually there were two or three of us and there were spare plugs in the group).

I also had a situation once where we replaced plugs on a Honda 4 cylinder bike, then realized that we forgot to check compression. Those plugs had all been turned in by hand almost to the bottom of the threads using anti seize. BUT, when we pulled them to do compression, one plug was galled into it's hole to the point that it removed threads as it came out. So I'm not a fan of anti seize at all.

I use it for brake sliders, contact points on backing plates, back of pads for anti squeal too, and on steel threads into steel, but I avoid it on aluminum threads.
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