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bypass, kill switch, start button, wiring issues

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  #1  
Old 8th September 2016
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Default Rigid Evo kill switch bypass/starter button wiring

Hi everyone, new to the forum for the most part, but plan on getting more involved as I am finishing up a sporty build and will hopefully be documenting it. The final stage is finshing up the switch wiring which has all been relocated and replaced with new switches. I bypassed the kill switch (I am fine with just using the key/what I normally do with all my bikes anyway) by connecting the grey and white/black wire that originally ran to the stock switch. Now I am using a NO momentary start button that is integrated into my brake lever clamp. This button has two wires, one of which I have connected to the black/red wire that ran to the stock button and then spliced the other wire into the same white/black wire that ran into the now bypassed kill switch. The problem is whenever I turn the ignition on with the current configuration, I blow my 15 amp starter fuse in the box and obviously can't get the bike to start. I know everything else is working fine because I have tried starting the bike with the stock switches and it fired right up. What am I missing here? Dumb button is making me feel stupid as I can't even think of another wiring option!
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  #2  
Old 8th September 2016
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Gray from ignition fuse feeds stop/run
White/black feeds start button.
Black/red goes to start relay.

Since it starts OK with standard switches, then the start relay should be wired correctly.

If that is the case, then pressing the start button is grounding the ignition fuse.

On both NO pushbutton terminals, what is resistance to ground?
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Old 8th September 2016
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
Gray from ignition fuse feeds stop/run
White/black feeds start button.
Black/red goes to start relay.

Since it starts OK with standard switches, then the start relay should be wired correctly.

If that is the case, then pressing the start button is grounding the ignition fuse.

On both NO pushbutton terminals, what is resistance to ground?


Doc,

Thanks for the reply. So I connected my voltmeter to the original button black/red and white/black wires:

Open:~300kohm
Closed:0 ohm

Then I connected to the two wires on my aftermarket button:
Open:~600kohm
Closed:0.2ohm

So my switch is functioning properly.. I tried to get a reading on my aftermarket switch with ignition power. Left black/red unused, connected one voltmeter prong to the white/black-grey combo and grounded the other prong. Blew the fuse.
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Old 8th September 2016
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Default

Just for reference, this is a picture of the wiring that blows the starter fuse with ignition power...from what I've read this is what I need to do, but who knows I guess I've screwed easier things up before. I've made sure none of the bare connections are in contact with anything before turning the key. The two black wires come from the starter push button.

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Old 8th September 2016
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according to the schematic, there are two bk/w wires in that area, ign and rt turn to module
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You either have a dead short to ground on the load side of the switch or the switch itself is grounding the line side of the circuit when the PB is closed.

With the PB mounted, what is the resistance to ground on the two PB terminals, without any leads connected?

From psot 2: On both NO pushbutton terminals, what is resistance to ground?
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Old 9th September 2016
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jumper past the wiring to the batt and r/bk wire to solenoid., functions? if not check wiring. check out doc suggestion could be faulty switch. want a man switch, go get one from Detroit diesel, may not be pretty but they work.
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Doc, okay I believe the switch was grounding itself. I disconnected my handlebar (separate bars) and held it myself and the switch worked. I'll have to look into the switch itself to try to figure out how it's doing this. Thanks for the help both of you, one step closer!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthew.w.keller View Post
Doc, okay I believe the switch was grounding itself. I disconnected my handlebar (separate bars) and held it myself and the switch worked. I'll have to look into the switch itself to try to figure out how it's doing this. Thanks for the help both of you, one step closer!
BusterT and I enjoy being of help.

Got a pic of the switch, both loose and mounted?

Likely suspects: Either the switch closing is making contact to its housing or a terminal is getting pushed into the handlebars.
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