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  #11  
Old 23rd April 2019
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harley506d harley506d is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BKB View Post
When you reassemble, get the newer pivot bolt. It's one piece, goes all the way thru both mounts, bushings & bearings. There's a thread on here about it, & the fella that did it says it's a straight replacement for the 2 bolts in there now. Would be a lot simpler all round, I think. Look for "pivot bolt torque spec".
That's a damn good idea. Looking on Ronnies, it shows 2 different part numbers for the pivot shaft though, so i presume the new shaft will be needed as well because of the threads inside the older type.

"QUOTE"
Edit: I suppose a rattle gun would be worth a shot as well, though I haven't got one of those either.

Have you a local hire shop?
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  #12  
Old 23rd April 2019
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I don't remember the old style shaft having a bore all the way through. Definitely need a new one to work with the bolt properly.

If it's anything like all of the shafts I've seen come out of there though, the old one will be rusty and have a nice little groove worn in it where things started rubbing after it sagged a bit. Not exactly a bad idea to think about a new shaft anyway with some of these. Mine was pretty minor so I just cleaned it up a bit and flipped it over so it could wear the other side since I'd assumed the new shaft wouldn't work, but that's what I get for not checking on it.
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  #13  
Old 23rd April 2019
Will1250 Will1250 is offline
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More great suggestions gentlemen, thankyou.

harley506d: unfortunately, where I live out in the sticks there are no hire shops

sml1226: I actually have one of those impact drivers but it does not have the bottom bit as in your picture (have to see if I can get one); the one with the adaptor for a socket. I tried making an adaptor by putting together bits of an old swivel to a socket that fitted on the end of the tool to bring it up to a one inch socket, but there were so many connections it lost most of the effectiveness of the impact when I hit it.

Toejam: have been hitting with a hammer as I have been turning with a large cresent wrench. The pivot shaft just keeps on turning.

BKB: will certainly investigate the newer longer pivot bolt. This will require a new pivot shaft as well as this one is not drilled all the way through (I checked when I took the left swingarm bolt out as I was going to squirt penetrating oil down the hole to help free up the right hand side bolt). No go. But first I need to get this one out.

Looks like I may be resorting to the method Parrothead suggested; drilling and tapping a hole so a bolt will fit at an angle to stop the damn thing turning.

Cheers, Will
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  #14  
Old 23rd April 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will1250 View Post
More great suggestions gentlemen, thankyou.

harley506d: unfortunately, where I live out in the sticks there are no hire shops

sml1226: I actually have one of those impact drivers but it does not have the bottom bit as in your picture (have to see if I can get one); the one with the adaptor for a socket. I tried making an adaptor by putting together bits of an old swivel to a socket that fitted on the end of the tool to bring it up to a one inch socket, but there were so many connections it lost most of the effectiveness of the impact when I hit it.

Toejam: have been hitting with a hammer as I have been turning with a large cresent wrench. The pivot shaft just keeps on turning.

BKB: will certainly investigate the newer longer pivot bolt. This will require a new pivot shaft as well as this one is not drilled all the way through (I checked when I took the left swingarm bolt out as I was going to squirt penetrating oil down the hole to help free up the right hand side bolt). No go. But first I need to get this one out.

Looks like I may be resorting to the method Parrothead suggested; drilling and tapping a hole so a bolt will fit at an angle to stop the damn thing turning.

Cheers, Will
I did not tap the hole, I simply drilled a hole and stuck a bolt through it as I had no other long piece of metal of the appropriate size

And great idea on replacing the new pivot shaft and bolt, I may have to do that the next time I have my bikes apart
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  #15  
Old 23rd April 2019
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Ooops, my bad. Have only just found that youtube video that gives the principle. Looks like the go.

Cheers, Will
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  #16  
Old 24th April 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will1250 View Post
does not have the bottom bit as in your picture (have to see if I can get one); the one with the adaptor for a socket.
Mine doesn't either. I think that's a sort of goofy setup, honestly. You run a socket to a drive bit to a socket...

Why not just run it (relatively) straight?


I don't have impact rated adapters because I already have non-impact adapters and they're usually smaller bolts in aluminum... and I'm cheap, but I just stick a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter on the end of mine without the hex drive thing. Keeps it from being a mile of adapters.

Anyway, good luck getting everything out of there. I haven't looked up anything on the new one since I just replaced my mounts a couple of months ago and know I won't bother doing it any time soon regardless, but I'd be interested to see the results of swapping to the new style shaft.
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  #17  
Old 15th May 2019
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Update:Success

I finally got it together to get my ute to where the bike was so I could load it and truck it to a place that had a rattle gun (after all this time it is lucky that I have another bike to ride )

And the bolt came out. It was not easy, even with the rattle gun. In fact it was only when the guy got out the big rattle gun that it gave, and even then it took a while. The problem was corrosion on the bolt and threads.






As everyone suspected, the little tabs on the lockplate had sheared off, allowing the pivot bush to spin. The three bolts holding the lockplate were ok though.
Below is a pic showing the amount of sag in the isolator.





The little pieces between the pivot bush and the lockplate are what remains of the locktabs.




The broken pieces of locktabs did not do the lip of the engine case where the pivot bush goes any favours, though it should be Ok with a bit of a clean up, as should the bore itself.



And that is as far as I have gone so far, though I have gotten the part numbers for the 2013 model with the through bolt instead of the ones from each side. The isolator numbers, the swingarm bearing numbers and the lockplate number are all the same so it should all fit OK.

Can anyone who has actually used the Drag Specialty isolators give me any feedback as to their suitability over the long term as opposed to the OEM ones thanks?

Cheers, Will
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  #18  
Old 15th May 2019
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Oh, an afterthought. I didn't drill to stop the bush from turning like the Youtube video suggested as the bolt on mine that was stuck was on the side that they drilled, and because of the lockplate and mounting it would be very difficult to drill the other side successfully.

Will
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Old 15th May 2019
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Glad to see you got it out!
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  #20  
Old 15th May 2019
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I have the Drag Specialty fronts on mine. At first i thought i had a little more vibration, but that turned out to be something else.
So, i reckon they are fine to use.
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