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  #1  
Old 19th April 2019
Sportster-92 Sportster-92 is offline
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Default Regulator battery draw

Hey there folks I have had parasitic draw on my battery that I have traced to the regulator. With the ignition off and a voltmeter in series on the charging cable of the regulator I am getting 12v draining from the battery. It seams to flow from the battery via charging cable then earthing through the frame via the regulators casing.

The wiring is correct to the manual and the manual shows the charging wire connection to the battery does not run through the ignition or anything to disconnect it from the battery when the bike is off.

So I bought a new drag specialities one and it still does it! Maybe the new one is faulty. Am I right in thinking the diodes in the regulator should stop current flowing from the battery when the bike is not running?

Cheers.
Neil.
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  #2  
Old 19th April 2019
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Default

Did you disconnect the regulator & test the line itself for shorting to ground?

Did you check the Keyswitch to see if you're getting a low grade short thru some corrosion on the contacts?

Did you check the Starter Solenoid (where the battery connects) to see if any corrosion or cable contacts may represent a low grade short?

When you're having issues with the electrical system, use this Sportsterpedia section about checking the battery cables, voltages and grounds -
DO THIS BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...place_to_start

Did you test the Stator for shorts?
Sportsterpedia - Check your Alternator/Stator



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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 20th April 2019 at 00:07..
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  #3  
Old 20th April 2019
Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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There's a time and a place to be checking for volts. When you're looking at/for drain, amps (or milli-amps) is usually more meaningful. You can be seeing volts/voltage (actually just potential) without amps.
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  #4  
Old 20th April 2019
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Default

Regulators are always energized, unless harness unplugged/battery disconnected.

Check for milliamp draw, rather than volts.

Should be about 1 milliamp (mA).

Milliamp Draw from the stickies (before Hippysmack and IXL2Relax developed Sportsterpedia)

TSM/TSSM/HFSM will continue to draw 16-25 mA for 30 seconds after ignition is turned off. Any disruption and reconnection of battery power, such as disconnecting the battery to place a meter in series, will cause TSM/TSSM/HFSM to draw 16-25 mA for 30 seconds.

1. Disconnect battery negative cable at motor/crankcase/trans, then connect ammeter between negative battery cable and its previous connection. With this arrangement, you will also pick up any regulator drain.
2. With ignition switch turned to OFF and all lights and accessories off, observe current reading.
a. Add voltage regulator draw to appropriate value for TSM/TSSM/HFSM. If sum is greater than reading observed on ammeter, draw is within limits.
b. A higher reading indicates excessive current draw.
Any accessories must be considered and checked for excessive drain.

A battery with a surface discharge condition could suffer a static drain. Correct by cleaning battery case.

Maximum Meter Reading (Averaged) IN MILLIAMPERES:
Voltage regulator 1
Speedometer 1
Tachometer (if equipped) 1
TSM (non-security models) 1
TSSM (disarmed) 3
TSSM (armed) 3
TSSM (storage mode) 1
HFSM 1
Security siren 20.0*
* Siren will draw for 2-24 hours from time motorcycle battery is connected and 0.05 milliamperes once siren battery is charged. For best results, disconnect siren during milliampere draw test.
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  #5  
Old 21st April 2019
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Hi Guys thanks for all of your help.

Some background on the bike its a 92 sportster with really simple wiring, no computers or anything.

So this is what I have done since my first post.

The ignition switch is not connected to the bike, the regulator has no shorting to ground via cables and the starter look ok.

I have checked for milliamperes draw at the positive of the battery and its barely anything 0.001. This is the same for the Regulator. I am also getting nothing between the starter cable and positive terminal.

When I do the same but switch to voltage I am getting 12.44v between positive terminal and positive cables. I remove the starter cable and its still at 12.44v. I remove all fuses apart from main 30A and I still have 12.44v. I remove the charge cable and I now have 0v.

Now if I leave my cable from the regulator to the battery connected over night the bike is to low on power to start the next day. If I disconnect it the battery does not drain.

I did the tests on the stator and all seams ok apart from the resistance between the pins was 0.7 ohms its meant to be 0.2 - 0.4. With the regulator disconnected from the stator I still have a reading of 12.44v coming down the charge cable.

If I take the regulator off and test it on the bench with another battery it is allowing 12v to run back down the cable ands earth through the body of the regulator. Are the diodes inside it meant to stop this from happening?

I am a bit stumped now.

cheers
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Old 21st April 2019
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You're not understanding what the meter is showing. Showing voltage in many circumstances just means there's a voltage potential there and doesn't mean much. You can see voltage but have no amps. Amps or milliamps is what counts when you're looking for drain. Your test with the meter in series with the battery shows (.0001) you have a pretty normal, minimal drain. Ammeter in series with the battery is THE test to tell you if you have excessive "switch off" drain.

That brings us to your batteries' condition. If you charge it and then let it sit a couple hrs (2 hr minimum) what is the voltage across its' terminals? That is a pretty good indication of its' health. The 12.44V you're reporting during your checks isn't encouraging...
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  #7  
Old 21st April 2019
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As already mentioned, voltage indicates the potential/electromotive force (EMF) of an energized component.

At 1 mA, your regulator, which is and should be constantly energized, is drawing normal minimal current to keep it energized.

Diodes in a wheatstone bridge simply convert AC to DC.

However, 12.44 volts is not normal...unless it was 12.8 until the key was turned on and the key was left on a long time.
Either the battery needs to be fully charged or a cell is/is going bad.

State of Charge (AGM battery)
12.8+ 100%
12.6 75%
12.3 50%
12.0 25%
11.8 Zero

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread...986193&page=12

http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:elec01
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  #8  
Old 21st April 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
State of Charge (AGM battery)
12.8+ 100%
12.6 75%
12.3 50%
12.0 25%
11.8 Zero
[/url]
Yes but those are "state of charge" numbers for a GOOD (healthy) battery. That's different than using voltage to determine the batteries actual health.

When testing a battery to determine its' health (voltage across its' terminals two hrs after being charged) 12.6V is pretty much the point where if your engine doesn't start on the first or second revolution on the starter it probably won't.
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  #9  
Old 21st April 2019
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This may sound kind of simple. The way I'm understanding this is when you leave your bike in the off position and let it sit over night you have a low charge problem in the morning.
With a 92 there aren't that many components that your dealing with. Now what I'm suggesting here will sound a little time consuming and simple.
Try disconnecting and isolating one component at a time and letting it set over night to see what happens. this may take you a few nights. A voltage meter will only tell you the presents of voltage but not tell you if voltage is being drained. You also might try isolating all your components and wiring harnesses and testing them to ground to look for shorts.
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Yes, the voltages are state of charge

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2002075

An AGM is 12.8 fully charged.
Taking it off a charger will probably result in 13 point something until a moderate load is applied.
At 2.133 volts per cell (AGM), if a cell is bad, voltage will quickly drop to 10.666 when a moderate load is applied.

A battery load tester applies load (resistor bank) and then measures voltage drop from that load.

Be good to know battery age, voltage fully charged and voltage, after fully charged, when pressing starter button.

Over the past 7 years, I have tried to avoid responses such as "you need a new battery" and prefer to give reasons for checking the battery, then how to check the battery, so that the OP can draw his/her own conclusion.

Eddieblz: The OP measured milliamps in post 5. With normal measurements, the battery becomes a suspect.

Be good idea to also check both ends of both battery cables.
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