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  #41  
Old 14th September 2019
smac74 smac74 is offline
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Are you using the shock mount as a point to hit the frame? I don't have any rear shocks but plenty of places to bond the frame and the motor if that's the intention.
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  #42  
Old 14th September 2019
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smac74 View Post
Are you using the shock mount as a point to hit the frame?
You got it. Correct. For me, it is a nice, easy access to a very good ground on the frame.

Whatever point you use, make sure it's a very good ground..... you want that secondary wire to heat up or burn off if ANY juice is flowing thru that circuit.
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  #43  
Old 14th September 2019
smac74 smac74 is offline
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Well I ran a #16 from the motor to the frame similar to your pic and it didn't heat up or burn up. It feels normal after hitting that starter several times and holding it. Think I'm going to chill out for a couple days, drink some beer, and I'll check back around after I swap out the starter.
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  #44  
Old 15th September 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Doctor71 View Post
I suspect there may be multiple things still at play here. But who knows . Anyway, I agree, it certainly smells like "grounding" needs to be back on that list.

I'd suggest eliminating grounding from the equation before proceeding down any other path. My preference would be to use a DC AMP meter to troubleshoot it, but not everyone has access to a 200 DC AMP meter. I get it. They're expensive. In the absence of that, my preference looks like this:



Not that you need it, (but more for others reading this thread 6 months from now) a quick how to:
  • parts needed: 2 clips similar to pic, ~ 2 feet of #16 or #18 guage wire (we want stranded, small guage wire)
  • attach clip to one end of wire, & then attach that clip to head of a rear rocker box bolt
  • on other end of wire, strip about 4-6 inches. Separate the strands & peel about 75% of the strands back.
  • attach the exposed wire & clip to the upper rear shock absorber mounting bolt/nut.
  • leave this wire in place until such time as all issues are resolved.
  • what you've just done is created a secondary ground. (with high resistance).
Run your test(s) on the solenoid / starter.

The "exposed" secondary ground wire will remain cold (at room temperature) during your tests provided the ground between motor & chassis is good. If, at any time, during your tests the exposed strands of wire become hot or burn off, you've got a ground problem. Yes, burn off is a possibility. Just depends how many AMPs is travelling thru that circuit at that moment.

And if you want to get creative, peel 99% of the strands back.... leaving 1 strand connected. It will burn off if there's a flaky ground between the motor and the chassis.

Let us know how it goes.
That is creative. It answers a lot of questions without even having a voltmeter. Even better if there was a safe way to ground it right to the battery.
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  #45  
Old 15th September 2019
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smac74 View Post
Well I ran a #16 from the motor to the frame similar to your pic and it didn't heat up or burn up. It feels normal after hitting that starter several times and holding it.
Before you take the brief hiatus, curious minds would like to know a few more details. Two questions during your latest testing:
  • did the starter motor spin at all ?
  • did the solenoid cause the pinion gear & shifter collar assembly to engage the clutch ring gear ? And if you're not sure, that's ok too.
Enjoy the beer !
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  #46  
Old 3rd April 2020
smac74 smac74 is offline
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Well, it's been some months since I've posted about the problems I've been having getting my bike to start- it was driving me so crazy that I just had to step back from it for a while. So much so that I had to enlist the help of my mechanic for a fresh perspective. As it turns out, the part of the solenoid that sits inside the primary cover wasn't seating inside the solenoid correctly when pulled in all the time. It would pass 12V on to the starter but not enough current to turn it. Installed the replacement kit and Bang! Instant ignition. This started as a nagging little "issue" from the early days not long after I first built the bike until last fall when it just stopped working altogether. What a m'thrf@#r!

On the bright side, I've got a spare relay, solenoid, starter, and battery in my shop for when I need to replace them. Lol.
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  #47  
Old 3rd April 2020
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glad to hear it.
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  #48  
Old 4th April 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smac74 View Post
Well, it's been some months since I've posted about the problems I've been having getting my bike to start- it was driving me so crazy that I just had to step back from it for a while. So much so that I had to enlist the help of my mechanic for a fresh perspective. As it turns out, the part of the solenoid that sits inside the primary cover wasn't seating inside the solenoid correctly when pulled in all the time. It would pass 12V on to the starter but not enough current to turn it. Installed the replacement kit and Bang! Instant ignition. This started as a nagging little "issue" from the early days not long after I first built the bike until last fall when it just stopped working altogether. What a m'thrf@#r!

On the bright side, I've got a spare relay, solenoid, starter, and battery in my shop for when I need to replace them. Lol.
Most likely you will not have a problem from now on with your relay, solenoid, starter and battery.....at least that is how things work for me
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  #49  
Old 4th April 2020
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