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  #21  
Old 24th June 2018
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Update:
I bought a cv Keihin carb that had been gone through and the guy said everything should be set to factory. 45/190 jets
Put it on and the bike idles and revs great.
I drove it down the street and it started to sputter and cough and now it idles but when I rev it slowly it chugs and bogs and tries to die. If I just crank the throttle it revs no problem.
I’ve sprayed carb cleaner while it’s running and no rpm change.
I have set the air screw to just about every possible setting and nothing fixes the problem. If I start at 2 turns out the bike starts easily then I’ll turn it in to about 1/2 out and it’ll die, if I turn it out from 2 turns nothing changes at all. I’ve had the screw almost all the way out and no change in rpm.

Here’s a video of it idling.
https://youtu.be/RXeGDrDNcB8



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  #22  
Old 24th June 2018
cazz1000 cazz1000 is offline
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sounds like u got a fouled plug. put ur hand at the end exhaust when runniing, is one cyinder colder ,, than the other
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  #23  
Old 24th June 2018
cazz1000 cazz1000 is offline
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don, use carb cleaner on ur intake rubbers ,, it will soften them up,that goes for Teflon blue head gaskets,, I use wd 40,,
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  #24  
Old 24th June 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cazz1000 View Post
sounds like u got a fouled plug. put ur hand at the end exhaust when runniing, is one cyinder colder ,, than the other


The rear is hotter than the front for sure but I put new plugs in a couple times over the past weeks trying to fix this issue and it hasn’t changed anything.
There was an intake leak that was fouling the rear plug but now I can’t find any leaks at all.


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  #25  
Old 24th June 2018
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reverse the plugs,, see what happens
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  #26  
Old 24th June 2018
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sorry if i missed it, but exactly what mark are you timing your bike to? for a fully electronic ignition, you normally time it to the front tdc mark.
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  #27  
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Default 85 Ironhead idles and runs fine with air cleaner off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
sorry if i missed it, but exactly what mark are you timing your bike to? for a fully electronic ignition, you normally time it to the front tdc mark.


I’m actually pretty foggy on how to time at all.
I’ve read a bunch of how to’s and I don’t think I really understand how to do it.
The instructions I read said to jack up the rear wheel and in 4th gear turn it till the line shows up in the window at Tdc on the front cylinder. Then it says to turn the wheel in reverse till the little dot shows up and use the light on the ignition module to set timing.
That’s what I did


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  #28  
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i think you should try setting it to the slash on front compression stroke, if the slash is your tdc mark. my gut says, i think you will experience an improvement if you do. someone else mentioned that yours is similar to a daytona twin tec (1005). from their instruction page...

"For static timing, you must rotate the crankshaft so
that the front piston is at TDC on the compression
stroke."

something else to double check, the rotor cup behind the module must be properly indexed to the slot in the #2 cam.
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  #29  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
i think you should try setting it to the slash on front compression stroke, if the slash is your tdc mark. my gut says, i think you will experience an improvement if you do. someone else mentioned that yours is similar to a daytona twin tec (1005). from their instruction page...



"For static timing, you must rotate the crankshaft so

that the front piston is at TDC on the compression

stroke."


Ok I will try that tomorrow morning. Thank you


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  #30  
Old 24th June 2018
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Here's the Sportsterpedia section on timing:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...dels_thru_2003

The diagram at the bottom shows the location of the cam notch when the front cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke...

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