The Sportster and Buell Motorcycle Forum - The XLFORUM®
 

Go Back   The Sportster and Buell Motorcycle Forum - The XLFORUM® > SPORTSTER MOTORCYCLE FORUM > Sportster Motorcycle Era Specific and Model Specific > Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985)
XLF Blogs XLF Arcade XLF Disclaimer/Privacy Statement/Terms Of Use

Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

Active Threads
0 HF bike lift
Last Post: Highly-Dangerous
Posted On: 1 Hour Ago
Replies: 13
Views: 455
0 What brake upgrade options does 1999 Sportster have? This is what I found!
Last Post: salmanmr
Posted On: 2 Hours Ago
Replies: 22
Views: 1,232
0 Average age of the Ironhead forum users
Last Post: jharback
Posted On: 2 Hours Ago
Replies: 464
Views: 98,708
0 still chasing my engine cutting out hot issue!
Last Post: supermotolew
Posted On: 2 Hours Ago
Replies: 14
Views: 448
0 Chasing Down Leaks
Last Post: ericfreeman
Posted On: 3 Hours Ago
Replies: 3
Views: 88
0 Gasket placement
Last Post: Billy1200
Posted On: 3 Hours Ago
Replies: 3
Views: 102
0 Hottie of the day, no nudity.
Last Post: ronccc
Posted On: 4 Hours Ago
Replies: 19,972
Views: 2,034,352
0 Anyone go racing last weekend?
Last Post: rocketmangb
Posted On: 4 Hours Ago
Replies: 3,182
Views: 325,610
0 ....1
Last Post: Highly-Dangerous
Posted On: 5 Hours Ago
Replies: 5,550
Views: 323,523
0 Food porn
Last Post: Tim The Grim
Posted On: 5 Hours Ago
Replies: 1,971
Views: 377,185
0 Main shaft bearing preferences
Last Post: Heff
Posted On: 6 Hours Ago
Replies: 11
Views: 501
0 73 XLH Total Power Loss
Last Post: Tipofthelake
Posted On: 6 Hours Ago
Replies: 1
Views: 44
0 Chinese S&S carbs
Last Post: Ferrous Head
Posted On: 6 Hours Ago
Replies: 28
Views: 955
0 KT - 2020 - Where Eagles Dare
Last Post: IXL2Relax
Posted On: 6 Hours Ago
Replies: 46
Views: 9,450
0 Tire pressure
Last Post: Ferrous Head
Posted On: 7 Hours Ago
Replies: 8
Views: 187
0 K/n air filter,, and s/s super b long thumb screw bolts
Last Post: doodah man
Posted On: 7 Hours Ago
Replies: 1
Views: 76
0 Cutting Out Cracking Popping, Etc, After Fully Warmed Up
Last Post: Rgm883
Posted On: 7 Hours Ago
Replies: 10
Views: 173
0 XR mutt race bike progress
Last Post: Ferrous Head
Posted On: 7 Hours Ago
Replies: 9
Views: 274
0 Hammer 1250 kit with fp3
Last Post: hexnut
Posted On: 8 Hours Ago
Replies: 3
Views: 666
0 Official XL Forum Random Image Thread (NO NUDITY!)
Last Post: Graywolf
Posted On: 8 Hours Ago
Replies: 47,718
Views: 7,638,305
3 Wtb, Wts, Wtt, Wtg (Ironhead)
Last Post: Magneto Sportster
Posted On: 9 Hours Ago
Replies: 33
Views: 259,823
0 1972 Build thread please subscribe
Last Post: Gold Member
Posted On: 9 Hours Ago
Replies: 66
Views: 3,824
0 Top end failure
Last Post: Mission1
Posted On: 10 Hours Ago
Replies: 14
Views: 532
0 Keep & Kill
Last Post: fafcpa
Posted On: 10 Hours Ago
Replies: 17,465
Views: 1,010,222
0 yost power tube guy
Last Post: SHAKY DAVE
Posted On: 11 Hours Ago
Replies: 27
Views: 1,215
0 Range With Carby 4.5 Gal Tank
Last Post: harley506d
Posted On: 11 Hours Ago
Replies: 108
Views: 53,199
0 Lifters+w cams
Last Post: Gazotenekes
Posted On: 11 Hours Ago
Replies: 8
Views: 591
0 What kind of saddle do you use on your sporty?
Last Post: Ireeman
Posted On: 11 Hours Ago
Replies: 293
Views: 86,446
0 Roads I'd like to ride.
Last Post: Graywolf
Posted On: 12 Hours Ago
Replies: 3,116
Views: 289,496
0 Info needed on mini sumps.
Last Post: brucstoudt
Posted On: 12 Hours Ago
Replies: 22
Views: 949
More...
Members Birthdays
vt883, Danno, Otis_hd (70), Fisherman (69), New Girl (63), soup (58), motormyk (51), leo, UncleSmitty (43), bryguy1977
Tags
1977 sportster, cable, clutch, ironhead, snap

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 7th October 2018
doodah man's Avatar
doodah man doodah man is offline
Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: 37° 25' 28" N by -80° 03' 42" W
Posts: 10,807
Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH
Sportster/Buell Year: 1975
Reputation: 703274
doodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roane View Post
Ok,
Last question before I yank it. Apologies if this is a dumb one but you are really turning that screw in so it will eventually bottom out in the plate and not move? Was just wondering if maybe I could be going the wrong direction somehow. And, should I grab new parts before opening it so I can put in a new ramp etc just in case? And run 20w50 since I’m in New York now and winter comes?
for the adjustment, you don't have to turn the screw in until it stops moving. once the screw makes contact, two full turns in is all you need. the ideal adjustment will have that screw almost or barely touching the thrust bearing collar. then when you pull the lever the ramp mechanism must force the screw against the spring pressure enough so that the frictions and steels can fully separate - no creep while stopped. what follows is a copy/paste of piniongear's clutch adjustment procedure...
"So here is what you do to adjust a Sportster clutch. You do it in this order, so don't try to take short cuts or scramble the steps...........

1) Loosen the lock nut on the cable adjuster.

2) Turn the cable adjuster inward (towards the primary) until there is a lot of slack in the cable at the clutch lever.

3) Now remove the center plug in the primary cover.

4) Loosen the lock nut on the center adjusting screw.

5) Turn in the adjusting screw until you feel it get harder to turn the screw. (The screw is now touching the outer plate)

6) Continue to turn in the screw a full 2 turns. Stop.

7) Go back to the cable adjuster and unscrew the adjuster while watching the slack disappear at the lever.
When you have removed all slack at the lever stop turning the adjuster. You want to have neither play or load in the cable at the clutch lever at this stage. Just a nice neutral no play/no tightness at the lever.

8) Now tighten the lock nut on the adjuster. DO NOT TOUCH this again. You are through with the cable adjuster.

9) Going back to the center screw......... Turn the screw out until you feel it turn easier. Stop.
Turn the screw back in until you feel it touch the outer plate. Stop.
Now turn the screw back out 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Stop.

10) Without allowing the screw to move, tighten down the lock nut. Replace the primary plug and you are done.

You will notice that you now have about 1/8 inch cable play at the lever. This is a result of you doing the adjustment correctly this time.
Many people fail to understand how to adjust a Sportster clutch and most fiddle with the cable adjuster to obtain cable slack at the lever. This is the wrong thing to do."
__________________
Nine mile skid on a ten mile ride, hot as a pistol but cool inside.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 8th October 2018
Roane Roane is offline
XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 131
Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster
Sportster/Buell Year: 1977
Reputation: 19759
Roane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to all
Default

Sorry to keep pounding on this thread. I’m putting together what I need in case the ramp assembly is bad but, in the meantime, I tried to adjust the clutch again. I did it three times and i can basically get it to pop into first gear and creep forward (not lunge). I’m wondering if this signals an issue with my cable adjustment or my clutch adjustment. I’ll still take it apart but want to make sure I’m not just adjusting things wrong before I pull it. At least that way I’ll adjust it right when I get the cover back on. I’ve been assuming that the instructions to turn the screw in mean righty tighty, But it’s been 20 years since I did this on my old bike so I figure I could easily be wrong.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 8th October 2018
Toejam503's Avatar
Toejam503 Toejam503 is offline
XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dakota Territory
Posts: 2,919
Sportster/Buell Model: XL 1200 C
Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
Sportster/Buell Model #2: (Prev.Own)XLH Milw.Spec.
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1981
Reputation: 5709978
Toejam503 has a reputation beyond reputeToejam503 has a reputation beyond reputeToejam503 has a reputation beyond reputeToejam503 has a reputation beyond reputeToejam503 has a reputation beyond reputeToejam503 has a reputation beyond reputeToejam503 has a reputation beyond reputeToejam503 has a reputation beyond reputeToejam503 has a reputation beyond reputeToejam503 has a reputation beyond reputeToejam503 has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by runingmouse View Post
One of the first things I had to change was my clutch. When I first got my bike. I installed my disks and adjusted per the FM. I had very little pull at the lever, and it would not fully release. After opening the primary up 2 more times and trying to figure what I had done wrong. I understood I had to first make sure the ball and ramp was fully released. (to do this while the cable is slack, you push the cable into the primary a little.) And nowhere in the FM is this part listed.

So If the FM way don't work for you, like me. There's somthing to think about. The ball and ramp mech. don't have a return spring.
I found this in an older 2010 thread. May make a difference. The thread is in Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles another clutch adjustment problem

Last edited by Folkie; 8th October 2018 at 15:36.. Reason: Fixed quote
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 8th October 2018
doodah man's Avatar
doodah man doodah man is offline
Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: 37° 25' 28" N by -80° 03' 42" W
Posts: 10,807
Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH
Sportster/Buell Year: 1975
Reputation: 703274
doodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond repute
Default

another possibility, if you have adjusted the clutch as perfect as can be and eliminated the possibility of a defective ramp, then (to me) the next logical cause of creep is either the frictions and steels are sticking together from not being ridden for a long time or the steels are warped.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 8th October 2018
doodah man's Avatar
doodah man doodah man is offline
Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: 37° 25' 28" N by -80° 03' 42" W
Posts: 10,807
Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH
Sportster/Buell Year: 1975
Reputation: 703274
doodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toejam503 View Post
The ball and ramp mech. don't have a return spring.]
Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post

"9) Going back to the center screw......... Turn the screw out until you feel it turn easier. Stop.
Turn the screw back in until you feel it touch the outer plate. Stop.
Now turn the screw back out 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Stop."
this is why step #9 is very important. it's true that the ramp doesn't have it's own return spring, but the two counter wound clutch springs act as the return spring for the ramp mechanism by pushing back on the adjuster screw. anytime i have to do a clutch adjustment, i always have to repeat this step a few times. it's very finicky - either it’s set up just right, or it either slips or drags. with pinion gears instructions i have my clutch set up with no drag it hooks up just right too. you have adjusted your clutch several times now with no result, i think it's time to dig deeper.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 8th October 2018
Roane Roane is offline
XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 131
Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster
Sportster/Buell Year: 1977
Reputation: 19759
Roane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to all
Default

Thank you all for the help. One issue may be that the adjusting but itself is catching before it gets truly engaged, like there’s thick crud on the screw. I worked it a bit but maybe I need to spray a little oil on it.

If it all looks right, should I replace the clutch while I’m in there? And would it be worthwhile to use the scorpion, maybe with lighter springs? The clutch was always difficult on this bike but I’d hoped the guy I’d paid to get the transmission in woulda replaced what was in bad shape. Never know though as lots has been wrong or falling off.

I’ve been slowly fixing a lot of previous work... not with a great deal of skill or knowledge but slowly plowing through and figuring it out.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 8th October 2018
doodah man's Avatar
doodah man doodah man is offline
Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: 37° 25' 28" N by -80° 03' 42" W
Posts: 10,807
Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH
Sportster/Buell Year: 1975
Reputation: 703274
doodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond reputedoodah man has a reputation beyond repute
Default

The Barnett scorpion clutch would be a bit over kill on a stock bike. That assumes your bike is stock? Regarding replacing the frictions, for me I would want to have a good look at them before I decided to replace them. They need to have plenty of friction material left and well defined grooves still visible. The steels need to be perfectly flat and not burned/discolored. Crud stuck in the center of the thrust collar i feel is possible, but not likely. Doesn’t hurt to check or spray it out with something.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 8th October 2018
Roane Roane is offline
XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 131
Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster
Sportster/Buell Year: 1977
Reputation: 19759
Roane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to allRoane is a name known to all
Default

Pretty stock. Was overbored a little bf I bought her in the late 1980s. I’ll do as you suggest.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 8th October 2018
ryder rick's Avatar
ryder rick ryder rick is offline
Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cornelius, OR
Posts: 9,167
Reputation: 1112818
ryder rick has a reputation beyond reputeryder rick has a reputation beyond reputeryder rick has a reputation beyond reputeryder rick has a reputation beyond reputeryder rick has a reputation beyond reputeryder rick has a reputation beyond reputeryder rick has a reputation beyond reputeryder rick has a reputation beyond reputeryder rick has a reputation beyond reputeryder rick has a reputation beyond reputeryder rick has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Another thing to look at is the clutch cable and routing.

You do not want any more bends than necessary and none of them sharp.
Also only one tie down (loose) in the middle of the cable on the frame up towards the neck.
If you have narrow bars run the clutch cable around the right side of the neck.
Note extra thick grips and lever covers can limit lever pull and cause clutch drag.

Lastly make the clutch cable adjustment with the bars straight ahead. Turning the bars will often change the adjustment.
__________________
Ryder Rick "I know right from wrong, but sometimes, wrong feels right"
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:18.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
XL Forum® - Linson Media LLC