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  #91  
Old 26th April 2018
MatHormell's Avatar
MatHormell MatHormell is offline
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Originally Posted by mac93 View Post
Update, made some changes, dual plugged the heads and went with a coating on the piston skirts. Trying to keep the pistons from rocking. I feel the rpm we were running is beating them up. Also added .010 to the head gasket just in case there’s still some piston rock. First time out with WAG tuning he was dialing a 9.50, had way to much wheelspeed on the hit so just dialed for it and raced. According to the plugs timing ( to much advance ) and jetting ( a little lean) were off. Even with the tune up off he had the power he needed, 139 mph, to race the stripe. Still was able to get the win. Did a leak down after the race and the rings are not seated yet. Hope they get better. Looking at running a 9.70 index that’s starting up around here. As far as the cases it looks like the repairs are holding up good. We’ll see what the season brings.
was it L2L you used for the skirt coating? I just had mine done as well. not back together yet, but curious on how it has worked out and if and what noticeable difference you have seen?
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  #92  
Old 26th April 2018
mac93 mac93 is offline
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Yes, we’re trying line2line coating on the piston skirts. To early to tell but I did notice the engine was harder to turn over when I first put it together. You can feel the drag in the tight piston wall clearance. Seems to be freeing up but being a track only bike I hope it works out like it should.
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  #93  
Old 26th April 2018
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Yes, we’re trying line2line coating on the piston skirts. To early to tell but I did notice the engine was harder to turn over when I first put it together. You can feel the drag in the tight piston wall clearance. Seems to be freeing up but being a track only bike I hope it works out like it should.
Yea they did mention it would be harder to turn over until it hones its self to fit, I plan do to dyno break in pulls to hopefully speed up the process, in their studies it's full fit to size around 500 miles.. I'm just going to follow their break in instructions on the dyno and see how it goes

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  #94  
Old 17th May 2018
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Got the boroscope out and looked at the piston and cylinder. Had enough detonation on the rear cylinder to eat away at the coating a little. Front was much better but showing signs. Might have learned something there between the two. I was way off on the timing, all my fault, I got sidetracked. I would post pics but have no idea how. The leak down was 20% after the race, all past the rings. This was after normal heat cycles and a ride around town. Learned that’s not enough, haha. Usually spend more time on break in but ran out of time before the race. Corrected the timing and been riding it around hoping to improve the ring seal. Got it down to 5%. Should be more like 2%/3% at this point. Oh well. Is what it is, when it’s race day you race. If not. Listen to the builder and TAKE THE TIME it takes to do a proper break in!!! That said, the win was worth it!
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  #95  
Old 17th May 2018
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Dang! You’ll get it and good luck next time out. Soon?

Doesn’t sound like much wiggle room on how you break in the axtells.
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  #96  
Old 17th May 2018
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Front




Rear


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  #97  
Old 21st May 2018
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Curious on what a race motor break in should look like?
I break them in all the same.. not like you can do 500 mile soft break in on a high compression race motor.. That being said I know very few racers who do a full by the book break in. Mostly just a few heat cycles and a ride and then to the track.

I think soft break ins for manufactures are due to mass-producing motors where there can be many differences in tolerances and spacing between different production runs. With so many variables it is best to break the engine in slow since there could be high amounts of heat and wear that occur because of these differences..
For a motor that has been hand built, and measured by yourself or engine builder to have perfect tolerances knowing that everything has been machined correctly, than no harm should come from a harder break in/dyno break in.

Me personally, I do a couple heat cycles, followed by a short test ride then it goes on the dyno for break in runs.
I do 3- 1/2 Throttle pulls
40% - 60% of max rpm
Cool Down 15 Minutes
3- 3/4 Throttle pulls
40% - 80% of max rpm
Cool Down 15 Minutes
Full Throttle pulls
3- 30% - 100% of max rpm

I think the key to the Axtells is waiting until its up to full operating temp before hammering on it. I have a hard time believing it takes millions of revolutions to seat the rings.. more like in the first 20 minutes/miles IMO and I will always feel the DYNO is the most optimal place to break in a motor. but that's just my 2-cents..
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  #98  
Old 22nd May 2018
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I use Hammer stuff but for break in I use Zippers break in page, maybe four or five short blasts around the neighborhood, couple few burnouts and some dyno time. 2/3 % after that. Didn’t do that this time.... still got the win tho. But. How good can I get it and how long will it last?
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  #99  
Old 5th June 2018
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Been riding around to continue the break in, leak down is 3% front and 5% rear so it seems to be getting better. Cranking compression is only 205 front and rear compared to 230 last year. I did change the pistons added a second plug and added .010 in head gasket, guessing that’s why. Seems like a big drop tho, IDK.
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Old 13th June 2018
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