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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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  #1431  
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Originally Posted by jkinkade View Post
Hi Mat sorry for hijacking your thread!
hey thanks for the steering damper link.

interesting about ccp,i have seen it go up just changing the primary ratio to a lower gearing & also on a Harley race bike with no starter, we used two different starter's, one could spin the motor faster. when we used the remote starter that turned the motor over at a faster speed & tested ccp we got higher ccp.
ya, I think its due to a few variables, IE the micro blue and skirt coating helping with rings seal and the reduced friction + the high cranking amp lithium ion battery spins it over much better than the previous battery. Combined I believe is the result of the higher cranking compression. I'm going to continue to do runs around my home area on 93 octane and see how it goes. Thing is an animal on the street, tire has zero hook up when laying on the throttle, but hasnt tried to lift the front tire at all yet.

Got the steering stabilizer stuff worked out now I believe. Still need to finish mounting it but got it in a way everything clears and turns. Might be able to get it to the track next weekend if all works out well.
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  #1432  
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jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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Originally Posted by MatHormell View Post
ya, I think its due to a few variables, IE the micro blue and skirt coating helping with rings seal and the reduced friction + the high cranking amp lithium ion battery spins it over much better than the previous battery. Combined I believe is the result of the higher cranking compression. I'm going to continue to do runs around my home area on 93 octane and see how it goes. Thing is an animal on the street, tire has zero hook up when laying on the throttle, but hasnt tried to lift the front tire at all yet.

Got the steering stabilizer stuff worked out now I believe. Still need to finish mounting it but got it in a way everything clears and turns. Might be able to get it to the track next weekend if all works out well.
Sounds like all the trouble you went to with coatings was well worth it!!
I would play with rear shock settings to see how that effects hook up to. is you gear ratio lower than stock?

get a Shinko Hook up tire!
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  #1433  
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Originally Posted by jkinkade View Post
Sounds like all the trouble you went to with coatings was well worth it!!
I would play with rear shock settings to see how that effects hook up to. is you gear ratio lower than stock?

get a Shinko Hook up tire!
Yes a shinko is for sure on the to do list, might get the street tire version of the hook up, it's only slightly less sticky and last a tad bit longer.. It was the tire everyone used before they came out with the hook up, tread looks damn near the same

So I was able to make my short shindy stabilizer work, just had to get all the mounting locations in the perfect positions to allow for full travel in each direction..

Still wasn't satisfied with the stiffness the a shindy provides so I rebuilt the stabilizer using a mix of tungsten disfulfide and heavy weight fork oil. Got it all rebuilt and is much stiffer now in the lower positions and probably twice as stiff as before in its highest stif setting. Going to mount it back on tonight and take her for a high speed run to see how it's stability feels on the big end..



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  #1434  
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Matt,

The v3 stealth will give you about 2000 to 2500 street miles. Half that racing. The hookup maybe 400. Mount the widest v3 you can.. I had traction issues with the 170.

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  #1435  
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Matt,

The v3 stealth will give you about 2000 to 2500 street miles. Half that racing. The hookup maybe 400. Mount the widest v3 you can.. I had traction issues with the 170.

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I ran run either 180 or 190, 17" wheels.. Have unlimited tire options to choose from

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Go with the 200 or 210 if you can fit it. You have 50+ hp on me and the 170 was just enough.

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  #1437  
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Go with the 200 or 210 if you can fit it. You have 50+ hp on me and the 170 was just enough.

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Probably could, its a 7" rear wheel
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  #1438  
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I can't believe you need tyres that size. I always find 130x16" work ok if you are using a flat slick I could understand. but the shape of MC tires not flat but round, for corners. I'm not saying I'm right just questioning. like the wider you go, the more the tire would weigh, also more friction. whats your trap speeds?
I forgot , not a Harley wheel, you have saved weight, but I think the wheel too wide ( personally )
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I can't believe you need tyres that size. I always find 130x16" work ok if you are using a flat slick I could understand. but the shape of MC tires not flat but round, for corners. I'm not saying I'm right just questioning. like the wider you go, the more the tire would weigh, also more friction. whats your trap speeds?
I forgot , not a Harley wheel, you have saved weight, but I think the wheel too wide ( personally )
The previous 130 on the stock wheel didn't stand a chance.. Was blowing the tire off in 1-3rd gears, no matter the PSI. 180-190 is pretty common tire size on the sportbikes, which is what my wheels are from. The Shinko hookup-pro is a bit different than your typical street tire in design as well. Designed to have a larger contact strip for drag racing. I will probably end up sticking with the 190 rear.
speed it was running previously with a 130 rear tire spinning half way up the track was 123-125mph. Not sure what the new combo is going to do yet..
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on street alway's been like that for me, widest I've used was 180 on Buell. but I've always been on Harley's. the clutch set up important too.
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