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  #41  
Old 22nd October 2017
Hotsauce Hotsauce is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Katy, a Suburb of Houston
Posts: 24
Sportster/Buell Model: Ironhead 1000
Sportster/Buell Year: 1980
Sportster/Buell Model #2: 883 Evo
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Interesting...



One of the reasons to warm it up is to get a good seal on the rings and see how they perform at operating temps...



If you still get this kind of difference, put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and try again - If the pressure comes up, the problem is poor ring seal - If it doesn't change, then valves are the suspect (or a head gasket leak)...



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I'll check that tomorrow. I got the new cables in the mail and installed them today, went through the carb again and cleaned it today and installed everything and started it and it sounded so much better. I got the tachometer hooked up as well and with the choke pulled out it was idling at 1,900 with no back firing or anything but there was a high pitched sucking sound and I remembered the VOES was uncovered. I covered it with my finger and it dropped down to 1,200-1,300 with the choke pulled out. I let it run for a few minutes, then changed the engine oil and primary oil (neither had been changed in over a year), and started it back up and let it run for a few minutes and checked the oil level. About that time I ran out of gas. I'll get some gas in it tomorrow and let it warm up and do a proper compression test and try and wire up the VOES again. Thank you so much for your help! I really appreciate it!


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  #42  
Old 22nd October 2017
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotsauce View Post
I'll get some gas in it tomorrow and let it warm up and do a proper compression test and try and wire up the VOES again.
I'll look for the update later tomorrow...

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  #43  
Old 23rd October 2017
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wedge wedge is offline
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You will need to know this to proceed.

http://www.xlforum.net/vbportal/foru...d.php?t=920271

This method of plug reading is very accurate on new plugs because they don't take long to color to the point that they can be an accurate tool. At the track, we typically read new plugs after two laps because that is all you get in practice runs. Circle track cars ate constantly going from cruise to WOT, and back to cruise, so the plugs can clearly show you how the engine is running at all RPM ranges and under a load at WOT.

If your bike spends too much time idling, then it will make it a little different, but basically this method still works, the color is just a tad darker over time.

If you do throttle chops at different steady RPM's (meaning you pull the clutch, chop the throttle and kill the engine, then coast to a stop and read the plugs). you can get all your readings off the base ring (the ring of metal where the strap is welded to the plug). But still look very carefully inside the plug and read it all the way to the full depth in there. That ring at the bottom in there where the metal meets the porcelain is your WOT reading, and that needs to be clean with a medium gray joining stark white

Anyway, read this a few times, and be very critical when reading the plugs.

I highly recommend NGK plugs. The ones for rubbermounts are DCPR7E. Not sure what the ones for an 03 are, but possibly the same. Run the stock equivalent heat range in the NGK's, and stay with that unless the porcelain color says otherwise. The porcelain is used for reading heat range and timing only, The rich/lean is always done by reading the metal.

After reading, ask if any questions, but it's actually simple. You just need a good magnifier for looking inside the plugs.

Oh, always check compression and write it down when you have the plugs out (typically 5000 miles). Keep a log of everything you do to the bike and it will help in the future.
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  #44  
Old 23rd October 2017
Hotsauce Hotsauce is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Katy, a Suburb of Houston
Posts: 24
Sportster/Buell Model: Ironhead 1000
Sportster/Buell Year: 1980
Sportster/Buell Model #2: 883 Evo
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2003
Reputation: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
I'll look for the update later tomorrow...



IXL 2 Relax

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Today was crazy. I got the bike running and noticed some smoke coming from the front rocker box cover. I turned it off once I saw that and let it cool. Then I pulled the covers and found one of the rubber gaskets wasn't in the groove in one particular spot so I got it all lined up and put it back together and it ran pretty good. The compression test after warming the bike up came out to 145 psi front, 155 psi in the rear. Which I think is abnormal but everything sounded good. I ran it around the block and it felt good, but it also just felt good to ride again and it might have clouded my judgement. I had a buddy helping me and I let him take it for a spin. He's ridden off and on for a few years, so I didn't think anything of it. In the cul-de-sac by the house he lost control, jumped the curb, and laid it down in the grass. He was ok, nothing broken. The bike made it out pretty good, everything but the bars. They were bent up pretty bad. It sucks because the wiring was all done internally, so now the new bars with the internal wiring are off and the old ones are back on, getting the wires routed through them. Been a crazy day, but compression seems to be good.


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  #45  
Old 23rd October 2017
Hotsauce Hotsauce is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Katy, a Suburb of Houston
Posts: 24
Sportster/Buell Model: Ironhead 1000
Sportster/Buell Year: 1980
Sportster/Buell Model #2: 883 Evo
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2003
Reputation: 10
Hotsauce is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post
You will need to know this to proceed.

http://www.xlforum.net/vbportal/foru...d.php?t=920271

This method of plug reading is very accurate on new plugs because they don't take long to color to the point that they can be an accurate tool. At the track, we typically read new plugs after two laps because that is all you get in practice runs. Circle track cars ate constantly going from cruise to WOT, and back to cruise, so the plugs can clearly show you how the engine is running at all RPM ranges and under a load at WOT.

If your bike spends too much time idling, then it will make it a little different, but basically this method still works, the color is just a tad darker over time.

If you do throttle chops at different steady RPM's (meaning you pull the clutch, chop the throttle and kill the engine, then coast to a stop and read the plugs). you can get all your readings off the base ring (the ring of metal where the strap is welded to the plug). But still look very carefully inside the plug and read it all the way to the full depth in there. That ring at the bottom in there where the metal meets the porcelain is your WOT reading, and that needs to be clean with a medium gray joining stark white

Anyway, read this a few times, and be very critical when reading the plugs.

I highly recommend NGK plugs. The ones for rubbermounts are DCPR7E. Not sure what the ones for an 03 are, but possibly the same. Run the stock equivalent heat range in the NGK's, and stay with that unless the porcelain color says otherwise. The porcelain is used for reading heat range and timing only, The rich/lean is always done by reading the metal.

After reading, ask if any questions, but it's actually simple. You just need a good magnifier for looking inside the plugs.

Oh, always check compression and write it down when you have the plugs out (typically 5000 miles). Keep a log of everything you do to the bike and it will help in the future.


I will for sure give that another few reads to make sure I understand it, and the log book on what I do is a good tip too, thank you for the information and passing on the good ideas!


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  #46  
Old 23rd October 2017
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster 883►1200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotsauce View Post
The compression test after warming the bike up came out to 145 psi front, 155 psi in the rear.
<SNIP>
In the cul-de-sac by the house he lost control, jumped the curb, and laid it down in the grass.
The compression sounds good being within 10psi of each other - The PSI numbers most often quoted are the minimums, so in good condition, the numbers should be higher, like you have...

BUMMER about your buddy bungling your bike... But what are friends for???

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  #47  
Old 23rd October 2017
John Harper John Harper is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLH 883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotsauce View Post
I had a buddy helping me and I let him take it for a spin. He's ridden off and on for a few years, so I didn't think anything of it. In the cul-de-sac by the house he lost control, jumped the curb, and laid it down in the grass. He was ok, nothing broken. The bike made it out pretty good, everything but the bars.
I had that happen to me back in college. Last time I ever let anyone ride my bikes.

John
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  #48  
Old 23rd October 2017
Hotsauce Hotsauce is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Katy, a Suburb of Houston
Posts: 24
Sportster/Buell Model: Ironhead 1000
Sportster/Buell Year: 1980
Sportster/Buell Model #2: 883 Evo
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2003
Reputation: 10
Hotsauce is an unknown quantity at this point
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
BUMMER about your buddy bungling your bike... But what are friends for??? [/B]

It sucks, but he was ok and I had a spare set of straight bars to put on, so no major damage. Just some more soldering for me now.



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  #49  
Old 23rd October 2017
Hotsauce Hotsauce is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Katy, a Suburb of Houston
Posts: 24
Sportster/Buell Model: Ironhead 1000
Sportster/Buell Year: 1980
Sportster/Buell Model #2: 883 Evo
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2003
Reputation: 10
Hotsauce is an unknown quantity at this point
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Harper View Post
I had that happen to me back in college. Last time I ever let anyone ride my bikes.



John


I can 100% understand that. Now at least. I've got the '03 883 that this thread was about, then I've got a '80 XL 1000 I picked up for $1,500 that I'm going to get running and leave with my Dad. I think besides me, he'll be the only one to ride that bike. He rode for 10-15 years when he was younger but then had kids and moved to a heavy traffic area (Houston) and decided he didn't want to have an accident which two kids. When I bought the Ironhead (original plan was to get it running again then sell it) he said "If you ever get them running at the same time we should go riding together." He might be the only other guy to ride one of my bikes.


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