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  #11  
Old 14th May 2018
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Jheitt Jheitt is offline
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As others have said, the MPH is there for it to be a ripper. Launching a bike takes practice that's all

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  #12  
Old 15th May 2018
jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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Bike looks beautiful!!
the track has good prep, so the strut ok, when I used a stut I found was harder to get traction so put shock back on and, that worked for me. I was going out the hole at about 6,000 rev, riding clutch. I had the strut & I had the front strapped down, you could try strapping the front down. but that can also mean you might need a steering damper but I think for the trap speed your doing you should be fine with front strapped down & give it more rev's off the line to get 60ft time down. if front comes up keep it wide open but control front with your clutch & 12's easy.
enjoy it!
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  #13  
Old 15th May 2018
mac93 mac93 is offline
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I’ve always liked having zero sag in the front end. Found it more predictable and easier to ride. Eliminate the variables to find consistency.
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  #14  
Old 15th May 2018
jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac93 View Post
I’ve always liked having zero sag in the front end. Found it more predictable and easier to ride. Eliminate the variables to find consistency.
yes probably a good idea, I used the straps but found my traction was not as good ( weight transfer ). zero sag would make it more predictable. once I get used to my bike and racing, I don't like to change anything.
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  #15  
Old 25th May 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkinkade View Post
Bike looks beautiful!!
the track has good prep, so the strut ok, when I used a stut I found was harder to get traction so put shock back on and, that worked for me. I was going out the hole at about 6,000 rev, riding clutch. I had the strut & I had the front strapped down, you could try strapping the front down. but that can also mean you might need a steering damper but I think for the trap speed your doing you should be fine with front strapped down & give it more rev's off the line to get 60ft time down. if front comes up keep it wide open but control front with your clutch & 12's easy.
enjoy it!
My opinion, wheelie bars are like a rollcage in car...safety item. Pretty sure I launch this thing at 6000, she's coming over!
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  #16  
Old 25th May 2018
Vohnsen Vohnsen is offline
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Originally Posted by Sprtstr1200s View Post
My opinion, wheelie bars are like a rollcage in car...safety item. Pretty sure I launch this thing at 6000, she's coming over!
if you got a stock sporty 1200 there is no need for starting at 6k.. i start at 3500 and dump the clutch and i got fine 60ft times..

stock got plenty of tq at low and no power above 5k anyway
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  #17  
Old 2nd June 2018
Slojoe55 Slojoe55 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vohnsen View Post
if you got a stock sporty 1200 there is no need for starting at 6k.. i start at 3500 and dump the clutch and i got fine 60ft times..

stock got plenty of tq at low and no power above 5k anyway
Runnin it up to 6 grand before shifting might be takin you out of the powerband try shifting at 45 or 5 and go up from there if it feels like it's not pulling as hard as it does when you start out you need to shift sooner.once you get the feel of the motor your times will go down.

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  #18  
Old 2nd June 2018
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Racepres Racepres is offline
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FWIW I have launched at Higher than 6k... even higher than 65k... Only when Racing Heads-Up... if Dial-in... No Need really... I'm thinking 4k to 45 hundred.. to stay in the Power. Much dependant on Track Prep!! Shifting?? If ya had an air Shifter it would tell you when you have went too far.. If you go over the top with an air shifter .. they will Not shift reliably..
Sometimes it may even be advantageous to shift even earlier than 4k
Be nice to Know at what RPM your combination "Noses Over".. Need to shift before that...
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  #19  
Old 2nd June 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racepres View Post
FWIW I have launched at Higher than 6k... even higher than 65k... Only when Racing Heads-Up... if Dial-in... No Need really... I'm thinking 4k to 45 hundred.. to stay in the Power. Much dependant on Track Prep!! Shifting?? If ya had an air Shifter it would tell you when you have went too far.. If you go over the top with an air shifter .. they will Not shift reliably..
Sometimes it may even be advantageous to shift even earlier than 4k
Be nice to Know at what RPM your combination "Noses Over".. Need to shift before that...
I'm short shifting first and second big time. I roll on it once I get it in third. This bitch really likes fourth gear and at no point have I hit that "Nose Over" rpm. All this is a mute point until a call Pingel and get the struts I need and new wheels for the bars I have. But trust me, I put her in the 12s the next time out.
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  #20  
Old 3rd June 2018
mac93 mac93 is offline
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If you’re short shifting first and second you’re leaving a LOT on the table. Those are the biggest rpm drops. You’re not going over the power band, you’re shift points might be so low you’re going under it. As has been said, gotta find the sweet spot and keep it there. With a little seat time e.t. and consistency will follow. Have fun!
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