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Sportster Motorcycle Tires, Wheels, and Brakes Discuss issues with Sportster motorcycle tires, wheels and brakes.

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belt, chain conversion, rear axle nut, secondary drive, torque setting

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  #1  
Old 25th June 2018
T_worth T_worth is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
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Sportster/Buell Model: Xlh 1200
Sportster/Buell Year: 96
Reputation: 10
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Default 96’ 1200 rear axle torque spec

I picked up a 96’ XLH 1200 the other week and am going through a few things that need replaced. The PO has converted it to a chain drive. My manual (for a belt drive) states my rear axle nut should be torqued down 60-65 ft-lbs.

My digital torque wrench wasn’t even at 30 ft-lbs before the nut seemed to be too tight. At around 30 ft-lbs, it tightens the nut so much that the rear wheel is difficult to spin. Does anyone know if the torque spec for the rear axle nut for a chain conversion is different than the OEM belt drive?
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  #2  
Old 25th June 2018
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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If you have the correct axle adjusters, the correct outer spacers, the correct bearings and the correct center spacer, it should not change the wheel rotation effort when clamped down --- all the spacers & the inner races of the bearings should simply create a solid clamped assembly upon which the outer bearing race & the roller bearings (Timken, right) will rotate around that solid assembly...

Are you sure you have right & left outer spacers correct? Were the Timken bearings checked for end play? Previous shims in place?

It sounds like something is missing that is causing the clamping action of tightening the axle nut to actually pinch or twist something...

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  #3  
Old 26th June 2018
T_worth T_worth is offline
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I really don't know if I have the correct parts to be honest. Based on the schematic, it appears I do have all the rear wheel parts. I can't see if theres a thin spacer between the bearings and long spacer, but everything else is there. I just picked up this bike about 2 weeks ago and am going through it front to rear, and its my first sportster on top of that, so I'm learning as I go.

I don't know if they're the right ones, but I do have a right and left outer spacer (double outer spacer for the right drive side).

As for the bearing end play, when I had the wheel off, I checked that the bearings spun smoothly, at which they did, but did notice the bearings had movement in and out within the wheel, I'd say each bearing moved side to side about 1/8th inch give or take. Would that determine anything?

What shims are you referring to? I have a feeling I should just replace the whole rear wheel assembly and be rest assure its ALL correct.
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  #4  
Old 26th June 2018
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Here's the Sportsterpedia section on Wheels, Axles & Bearings...
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:evo:wheels01

Pay particular attention to this section:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...imken_bearings

While the discussion is regarding front wheels, the rear are similar and the principles apply equally...

Once you understand the clamping of spacers & bearings, you should be able to assess why the wheel is getting tight... Or come back with more questions to get to the bottom of the problem...

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  #5  
Old 26th June 2018
T_worth T_worth is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: Xlh 1200
Sportster/Buell Year: 96
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AWESOME! Thanks so much, I'll look into this website and take my wheel back off to reassess the situation.

I'll write back in a few days once I know more.
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