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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 22nd June 2018
dilligaff1956 dilligaff1956 is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH Sportster
Sportster/Buell Year: 1973
Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLCH
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1973
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I'm thinking the same thing. Remanufacture the carrier plate to give me room to time the little iron head. But looking at the previous scores on the timing plate. It should be close to center of the timing slots. I'm at the verry end of the slots
Should i pull the case and check the 5 timing cams. I know the bike was order from factory to race???. But even then why so far on the advance. I'm having great fun working on this 73. But wow.
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  #12  
Old 22nd June 2018
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Might be time to check the cam timing and the clocking of the oil pump. Could have a gear off by one or two teeth.
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  #13  
Old 22nd June 2018
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A picture wouldn't hurt.
There may be some visual clues....
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  #14  
Old 22nd June 2018
dilligaff1956 dilligaff1956 is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH Sportster
Sportster/Buell Year: 1973
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Brianbbs67 . I think you are right on that one. Time to open her up more. Or i might just remanufacture the carrier plate to give me more adjustments. I have a run I'm supposed to do in a couple of days and I'm still dealing with electrical issues.
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  #15  
Old 22nd June 2018
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shovithead shovithead is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLH XLCH
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Sportster/Buell Year #2: 65
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Other Motorcycle Year: 68
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I have mentioned this, but you did not say if you were doing it this way. Did you make sure you are on the front cylinder? Not to sound like I am berating your ability, but are you trying time it on the front or rear? If you are rotated on the rear, your advance would be way off, if you are looking at the points cam. Not sure what you mean when you say you did it right by the book. But you have to be on the compression stroke of the front cylinder, to time the points plate. And it is possible to have the points cam on backwards. Don't remember who asked you, but the pin on the advance is the key, and there are two. One next to the base of the points cam, and the cam has a flat side, and a round side. The cam flat side, goes against the pin. The other pin, is the locating pin, on the backside, that locates it on the cam slot, and if this pin is broke, or bent, it will have the points cam located wrong. So, if you are understanding this, you may just be trying to time it on the back cylinder, which is about 30 or 40 degrees before the front hits the top, and on the wrong stroke. They do not fire one right after the other, one fires, and the motor rotates 360 and the other one fires. I may be off on the degrees, but it is more than the points plate can achieve, and may be what you are seeing. So, just say if you are doing the locating the front compression, using your finger to feel compression, or if you are watching the front intake pushrod close, then rotating the crank until the timing mark comes in the window. If you are just rotating it, and letting the mark tell you that you are there. You may be on the front, or the rear. Normally, watching the points cam, and seeing the pointy cam near the points lift point would tell you that, and is why you need to make sure the pin in the advance is there, and the points cam is installed correctly.

All of this can be done easier than pulling the cam cover. And if it is all like I am telling you, then you may have to pull it. But that is not a easy job as most think, for someone that has never done it. And I am NOT saying you can't, just that you may NOT have to.
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  #16  
Old 23rd June 2018
dilligaff1956 dilligaff1956 is offline
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Shovithead. Thats my plan for now. Gives me a bit more room to play I'm timing off the slash on the front jug compression stroke. I cheat. I have a camera that goes into the spark plug hole to make sure the valves are closed. I watch them close while turning the back tire to find the slash. Go past the double dot till i reach 40 degrees. Still confusing. I have had two mechanics work on the bike. One used to work for a Harley dealership out in Edmonton. The pther has 17 bikes he built in his shop next door to me. And both timed it to the end of the slot on the points carrier plate. I can start the bike with two prime kicks. No gas. One kick. Boom starts right up. But i cant get less than 1200 rpm idle. Rebuilding a 78 to ??kilienen butterfly Carb to hopefully get this little girl running . I wont take her out of town at the moment as i dont trust her to go for a good boot. Note. I live in a town of about 450 fine folks 30 to 40 minuets away from any city/town. Thats a long way to push a 570 pound lawn ornament. I'll get her. But its frustrating.
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  #17  
Old 23rd June 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dilligaff1956 View Post
... One kick. Boom starts right up. But i cant get less than 1200 rpm idle...
This is a classic symptom on an intake leak...

Intake And Exhaust Leaks Tests
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=39766
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  #18  
Old 23rd June 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
This is a classic symptom on an intake leak...

Intake And Exhaust Leaks Tests
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=39766
Or a throttle butterfly installed backwards. Meaning , it will never completely shut the butterfly, and draws more mixture than needed to idle. Just not sure what carb he is currently running, unless it is the mentioned Keihin carb he says he is rebuilding. I have seen this before and it will drive you crazy until you figure it out. The intake is the same, and probably more common. Since he says it sat for many years, it should be checked. If he has not. Looks like two mechanics that have been HD trained, and one that has built many bikes, would think of the orings, if not the butterfly. But, it happens.
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