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Sportster Motorcycle Custom Finishing Here is where you can discuss various ways of customizing your Sportster motorcycle or Buell motorcycle.

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  #311  
Old 23rd January 2020
Bigshankhank Bigshankhank is offline
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Never had custom paintwork done, but here I am with this bike and I want to change some stuff on the tank. I like the shape of the tank, current paint is a gloss black base with no flake and decals on the flat faces of the tank itself, then all of it cleared.
I would like to change this to a green base with large flake and then new decals, or possibly pinstriping.
Rough order of magnitude cost for this idea? Just the tank, no fenders.

Thanks for the advice.


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  #312  
Old 4th April 2020
Hippysmack's Avatar
Hippysmack Hippysmack is offline
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I got bored and started doodling.
Ended up making a couple drawings below.

Then I got to thinking about building up the paint section of the Sportsterpedia.
It's a start... if anybody wants to add anything, please do.

Spray Technique:
Full coat sprays should be even on all sides to avoid paint buildup and runs.
Follow the contours of the piece you're working on.
Keep the spray the same distance from the piece thru a pass.

Decide ahead of time in where and at which direction you'll be spraying.
Light winds.
If you're spraying outdoors, changes are there may be a slight wind.
Spray with your back to any wind. Spraying into wind will splatter the paint.
It may be necessary to turn your piece several times to keep the wind on the right side of the spray.

Which side to spray first?
Spray (carve out) hidden or obscure areas first.
Slight imperfections won't be seen or paid much attention to anyway.
Gravity pulls mist droplets down. So some may paint the top of a tank first and then the sides.
Others prefer to paint vertical areas first and let the top mist blend with the sides.
However, since the top will hold more paint buildup before running, it's good to keep spot sprays (to tidy imperfections) to a minimum on top.
This examples advice of painting the whole piece before any drying time has passed especially with topcoats.
While either way may work fine, the previous painted area needs to allow the new paint to blend in with it. Else, you end up with varying textures.
It's disheartening to lay down a slate glass finish only to spatter it with mist from the other side.
As long as the last passes are still wet, the new coat should blend mist in fine.

Keep drying times in mind.
It's difficult sometimes to spray one side and immediately move to other sides of the piece.
If you're spraying primer or base coat, this is generally not a problem.
With top coats / clears, the best scenario is apply paint to the entire piece at the same time.
And some paints react different than others.
You may see a variance in texture if you wait too long to spray other sides once the first side is done.
Usually these variances can be buffed out later.
But if you're not planning on it or are without buffing equipment, a good layer can be had by keeping the paint moving to keep the texture the same.



I'll admit this looks more like a guitar with the neck removed, but I only have MS Paint to play with.

__________________
Reference the XLFORUM'S Sportsterpedia for additional technical information & advice

In Search of Fuel, Sunshine and a Steady Idle.
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  #313  
Old 22nd September 2020
Samedward Samedward is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sorgy View Post
uhhm uhmm i have a question. You state you have been painting over 20 years. I'm curious what a 3 year olds paint jobs looked like?? Like did you do a good job of keeping it between the lines & was baby poop green or yellow a color of choice & if it was did it flow real nice?? ??? Glad your my friend!!! Sorgydukin & runnin!!!
lol.
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  #314  
Old 22nd September 2020
Whitewalls's Avatar
Whitewalls Whitewalls is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Posts: 650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
I got bored and started doodling.
Ended up making a couple drawings below.

Then I got to thinking about building up the paint section of the Sportsterpedia.
It's a start... if anybody wants to add anything, please do.

Spray Technique:
Full coat sprays should be even on all sides to avoid paint buildup and runs.
Follow the contours of the piece you're working on.
Keep the spray the same distance from the piece thru a pass.

Decide ahead of time in where and at which direction you'll be spraying.
Light winds.
If you're spraying outdoors, changes are there may be a slight wind.
Spray with your back to any wind. Spraying into wind will splatter the paint.
It may be necessary to turn your piece several times to keep the wind on the right side of the spray.

Which side to spray first?
Spray (carve out) hidden or obscure areas first.
Slight imperfections won't be seen or paid much attention to anyway.
Gravity pulls mist droplets down. So some may paint the top of a tank first and then the sides.
Others prefer to paint vertical areas first and let the top mist blend with the sides.
However, since the top will hold more paint buildup before running, it's good to keep spot sprays (to tidy imperfections) to a minimum on top.
This examples advice of painting the whole piece before any drying time has passed especially with topcoats.
While either way may work fine, the previous painted area needs to allow the new paint to blend in with it. Else, you end up with varying textures.
It's disheartening to lay down a slate glass finish only to spatter it with mist from the other side.
As long as the last passes are still wet, the new coat should blend mist in fine.

Keep drying times in mind.
It's difficult sometimes to spray one side and immediately move to other sides of the piece.
If you're spraying primer or base coat, this is generally not a problem.
With top coats / clears, the best scenario is apply paint to the entire piece at the same time.
And some paints react different than others.
You may see a variance in texture if you wait too long to spray other sides once the first side is done.
Usually these variances can be buffed out later.
But if you're not planning on it or are without buffing equipment, a good layer can be had by keeping the paint moving to keep the texture the same.



I'll admit this looks more like a guitar with the neck removed, but I only have MS Paint to play with.

I've never really put that much thought into it. I'm a home garage rattle can junkie. As far as painting goes there is nothing more gratifying than achieving professional with rattle cans. It's much easier than most people think. I especially love to hear the doubters & nay sayers and being called a liar when telling people I painted my bike with rattle cans for about $60.
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  #315  
Old 23rd September 2020
Hippysmack's Avatar
Hippysmack Hippysmack is offline
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Truthfully, neither have I.
I throw paint around like candy depending on what I'm working on.
Sometimes it's good, sometimes it looks like crap.
Professional painters use high dollar tools I never had money for. So I learned to do with what I could get.
You get to noticing things like the paint cures faster in good warm weather.
Then you get a reality check spraying the cab of your truck in 105F weather and shooting nothing but BBs on the cab.
Paint dries before it lands.
My plate has grown pretty big lately but I would like to document all these little things that drive you nuts.
And the little things that make the difference when painting like following contours and stuff.
It's written on every can but how many times do we read that far.
I've heard that many times over the years too.
It does a body good to get a finish you can be proud of that you did yourself.
I never had a problem I could'nt solve with rattle cans though.

The forum is running really slow with Explorer tonight for some reason.
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  #316  
Old 23rd September 2020
Whitewalls's Avatar
Whitewalls Whitewalls is offline
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Great points.
I learned the hard way that days with high humidity are bad. It makes the paint cloudy and dull. I thought I got bad paint. Cussed and called Duplicolor. Just like you say they said read the can!
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  #317  
Old 23rd September 2020
Hippysmack's Avatar
Hippysmack Hippysmack is offline
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Speaking of cloudy, I put a good looking final coat on my tank and figured I'd spray a quick first clear.
I had my shop fan pointing away from me and laid it down.
All of a sudden it turned white.
It was because of the fan doing funky junk with the now gasing solvent.
But my backside didn't relax for a couple hours afterwards.
All cleared up and shiny once it gassed out.
That may make someone want to strip it back down but all you have to do is wait it out.
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