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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #1  
Old 21st May 2010
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Default Is it true? (eliminate clutch spring plate)

Read somewhere that the spring plate can be eliminated and replaced with 2 steels and a fiber....someone havin' the old man on or what?

Last edited by Folkie; 21st May 2010 at 22:58.. Reason: Vague title.
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  #2  
Old 21st May 2010
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What ?
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  #3  
Old 21st May 2010
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Talking about the spring plate in the clutch. Yeah there are kits out there to replace it with extra friction and steel plates. I don't have any first hand knowledge but I'm sure someone on the forum does.
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Old 21st May 2010
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Yes some clutch kits come with the extra plates.
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Old 21st May 2010
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Yes, it is absolutely true. Many of us on the forum here have already done it and there are several threads and a sticky devoted to this upgrade. It was one of the smartest upgrades I've ever done on my bike. No more slipping. Clutch grabs right away, shifts smoother and finding neutral is effortless. Clutch adjustment is easier now and more accurate. I highly recommend doing it before the spring plate disintegrates; and eventually it will...
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Old 21st May 2010
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Damn!
Completely missed the sticky and I just replaced the stock clutch assembly!

Is it possible to buy just the 3 replacement plates?
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  #7  
Old 21st May 2010
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I agree, I went with the Barnett extra plate Kevlar clutch set. It wasn't overly expensive and was worth every penny!
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Old 21st May 2010
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http://xlforum.net/forums/s...d.php?t=168162

This is my thread with pictures when my clutch plate sheared the brass rivets at 17,000 miles. Actual wear on all the other plates was very very minimal. I replaced the spring plate with new, stock, from the dealer plates. You need two steel plates and one friction plate. I think I remember the number of plates correctly. I used all the other original plates.

Since then the transmission shifts like a Jap bike. Very smooth, very positive, clutch engages much quicker. It did take awhile to get used to it again. I suppose the clutch plate is simply there to prevent a newbie rider from dumping the clutch too fast and getting thrown off the back.

You must also adjust the clutch and primary chain correctly. I had to fill / drain the tranny and do a short ride in between about 10 times to get all the brass chips out. There is another clutch thread by CJBurr in the sticky section.
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Old 21st May 2010
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Be advised the spring plate is there for a reason. It allows the best feel to the clutch.

I tried a Barnett extra plate kit and didn't like it at all because of the lack of feel. It grabs too abruptly.

It's true, the spring plates they do fail. I had one fail on my Road King in 60,000 miles, but in over 85,000 miles never had one fail in my Sportster.

The only thing a stock clutch needs to keep it from slipping is a HD spring.
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Old 21st May 2010
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Quote:
I tried a Barnett extra plate kit and didn't like it at all because of the lack of feel. It grabs too abruptly.
Using stock plates avoids the grabby feel of high performance plates. Generally only bikes with Stage 2 or better engine mods ridden hard need high performance plates.
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