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  #11  
Old 14th June 2015
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miketrip miketrip is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
Is the voltage reading higher if you probe the fins, rather than the turn signal assembly?

Low voltage from a low battery could be a compound effect with a poor turn signal ground.
I get the same voltage reading when I probed the frame and one of the engine fins for a ground.
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  #12  
Old 14th June 2015
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sportsterdoc sportsterdoc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miketrip View Post
I get the same voltage reading when I probed the frame and one of the engine fins for a ground.
Exactly the same?
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  #13  
Old 14th June 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
Part of the process of elimination.
If battery and battery cables are good, then the focus is on the brown turnsignal wire after the splice to the rear or the turn signal ground.

BTW, when the RF does not illuminate, does the right turn signal indicator illuminate?
The turn signal indicator just stays on solid when I turn the right turn signal on.
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  #14  
Old 14th June 2015
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Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
Exactly the same?
Yes
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  #15  
Old 14th June 2015
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Originally Posted by miketrip View Post
The turn signal indicator just stays on solid when I turn the right turn signal on.
Then the brown wire is intact to rear and indicator.

Flashing requires full load of both lamps.

Need to find out why the low voltage to the RF turn.
1. If you do a resistance test from the RF turn signal socket (not the housing/shell) to the battery - terminal, what is the ohms?
2. From the housing/shell to the battery - terminal, what is the ohms?
3. Re-advise basic voltage reads. I'll check in the morning, then will be off the grid until Tue PM.
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  #16  
Old 16th June 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
Then the brown wire is intact to rear and indicator.

Flashing requires full load of both lamps.

Need to find out why the low u to the RF turn.
1. If you do a resistance test from the RF turn signal socket (not the housing/shell) to the battery - terminal, what is the ohms?
2. From the housing/shell to the battery - terminal, what is the ohms?
3. Re-advise basic voltage reads. I'll check in the morning, then will be off the grid until Tue PM.
Okay! So I finally was able to get back to troubleshooting my issue and I found the problem! Per your earlier posts, I checked the voltage at my battery, it was 12.7, and I traced both the positive and negative wires from the battery to the bike again and both were in good shape at both ends. So I was good there. So I decided to start tracing the power wire for the turn signal from the TCM. I took the fuel tank off and measured the voltage in various different spots of that lead wire for the front turn signal. It was reading just under 12 volts all the way up to the plug that sits underneath the front of the tank. From that plug it goes to the turn signals in the front. I unplugged it and took a voltage reading, it was 11.78. So up to the pin in the plug the voltage was good. I plugged the other end back in and took a voltage reading of the wire coming out of the plug going to the turn signal and it read 10.2. So there was my culprit! It end up being a loose pin in the connector. I bent all of the pins in a bit to tighten them all up, plugged it in and bam! Turn signal works perfect, getting 11.7 volts all the way up to the socket. Just a bad connection in a connector was all. A whole weekend of riding lost because of one little loose pin. But it's fixed now! And I thank you for all of your help and your advice! It's much appreciated!

Here's a picture of the plug I'm talking about.

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  #17  
Old 17th June 2015
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Glad you found the connector pin issue and turns are now operative.
Don't know why voltage is down to 11.7 at the socket...so, you may have some other resistance not yet interfering with operation.
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  #18  
Old 1st August 2015
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I'm going to have to check my socket there as my left front indicator isn't working but the rear is on but not flashing and the right hand is working ok.
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Old 2nd August 2015
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Glad to see you found the problem...

To any one reading this thread, take note - A simple misconnection lost enough power to affect the TS operation, but it was not simply an all or nothing type failure (12v vs 0v) --- Often times it may seem like you are getting "voltage to the part" when, in fact, you are still not getting "proper voltage" to the part...

This is one of the reasons to take a Voltage Reference check directly on the battery before starting a diagnostic search so that you know what voltage level you should be looking for to verify "proper voltage" to the part...

Many of the connections on our simple machines are just power or ground from the battery and checking for full voltage or complete ground conditions at suspect parts is critical to establishing or eliminating wiring as an issue...

Thanks to SporsterDoc's untiring efforts here, many have been put back in operation...
Rep to you...

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  #20  
Old 2nd August 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
This is one of the reasons to take a Voltage Reference check directly on the battery before starting an diagnostic search so that you know what voltage level you should be looking for to verify "proper voltage" to the part...

Many of the connections on our simple machines are just power or ground from the battery and checking for full voltage or complete ground conditions at suspect parts is critical to establishing or eliminating wiring as an issue...
A very true summary and thank you for the rep.
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