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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 31st October 2016
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do you have the book on the 60?
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  #12  
Old 31st October 2016
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Sportster/Buell Model: Sporty XLH 883
Sportster/Buell Year: 1992
Sportster/Buell Model #2: Sporty XLCH
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1960
Other Motorcycle Model: Duo-Glide 1964 FL
Other Motorcycle Year: 1964
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The clymer manuel M419 for Sportster 883 1200 XLH1000 1959-1985 ?

Actualy I've another one in french for 1985-1999 I used for my 1992.
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  #13  
Old 31st October 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blowupster View Post
For the carb, perhaps I just need to open the down plate to remove dust that avoids stopping the fuel (?)
you'll need to remove the float bowl,the bottom half of the carb.4 screws hold it,but you'll have to remove it from the intake manifold.you can't drop the float bowl with the carb mounted because the magneto is in the way.
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  #14  
Old 31st October 2016
GA_Ironhead GA_Ironhead is offline
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Blowupster, congratulations on your CH!

To supplement your Clymers manual, you'll want to get a copy of the H-D Factory Service Manual, part # 99484-68, which covers 1959-69. If you've lived a good, clean life, you'll find a french translation.

I never thought about it before: does anyone know if translations exist?

The parts book is invaluable as well.
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  #15  
Old 1st November 2016
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It would be a bit of work but you can scan the text [every new printer is also a scanner these days] then use Google translate to translate it into any language ...

https://translate.google.com/

Do it one section at a time, as you need it.
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  #16  
Old 1st November 2016
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Sportster/Buell Model: Sporty XLH 883
Sportster/Buell Year: 1992
Sportster/Buell Model #2: Sporty XLCH
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1960
Other Motorcycle Model: Duo-Glide 1964 FL
Other Motorcycle Year: 1964
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Thanks for info and welcome messages.
Ok tonight I will have only free time at 9:30. I will try to knock gently with hammer on the bottom of the carb. when fuel open to see if it helps the floating element to shut the fuel arrival. I will drop gap of the spark plugs to the minimum. Then I will stop fuel and try 30 minutes with the kick. As the seller said he spent half an hour to start last time. Then it will be easy for me to sleep.
The day after I will remove the carb and try to clean with my tool that are not done for it...
I will probably filter all the fuel inside of the tank, the tank is not correct set (not flat) even with 3 litres I have to set R(eserve) position
Without carb, it will be easy to make test for the magneto. Yesterday I remove the kill wire and try again to get any spark without any success.
I have old Champion sparkplug. what you recommend in NGK to get more chance to start ?
Ok I will order the Clymer manual today. English books is not a problem for me. It’s better to learn the English name of part to write to you. My problem is when it’s written for people that will understand acronyms like :
“10) points wire stud (a/m points only. the oem f/m points dont have stud)- no cont.”
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  #17  
Old 1st November 2016
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welcome from the Southern USA .. words of advice... GET the factory manual, they DO have international,I OWN one.it can be had as a pdf....... concentrate on ONE thing at a time, get it right and move on........ you got air,get fire next,then fuel. ...On that note, shelf that B model or any S&S carb and get the exact same carb you have on the 92 and the inexpensive adapter on ebay or? Its way too much carb and has no aceelerator pump and will make startin a bear no matter even if you learn the sequence.There are some great mods with lil or no cost that can be done on the CV type carb to get rid of the cough sputter ,etc and really get it to flow..Ngk doe NOT make HD specific plugs as far as I know. the champion H8C gapped at .030 is what you want ,there is an RH8C, it will work but you don;t need a resistor plug. autolite[ preffered ] is 4316 and you must have SOLID copper core wires.Stranded is acceptable, but...Mags can be rebuilt and sometimes the rare earth inside needs remagnitized.. oh yeah the c v carb you use should have 48 and 170 jets to start. use KEIHIN jets and no bullsheet kits or aftermarket parts in em,EVER. A good source for reference is sportyparts.com I do not know if they ship overseas.. STAY AWAY from JP CYLCLES DENNIS KIRK. I also recommend quality mufflers on stock 1 3/4 only head pipes,not drags which rob midrange power bad, just some folks HAVe to have the noise.. I own 3 ironheads, stock,custom and drag..
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  #18  
Old 2nd November 2016
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Sportster/Buell Model: Sporty XLH 883
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Thanks for your welcome message.
Ok tonight I open again the magneto and checked the ohm value between point spring and ground: 0.9 when closed and 1.1 open. That’s not a big difference indeed. So I cleaned between the 2 points and then I get 0.5 close and 1.1 open. Ok that’s how I understand the breaker points should works when wired to a coil.
Then I put aluminium foil between to coil spring (gap about 2 mm) and I got spark when kicking.
I remove foil and close the Magneto put a test plug and kick and get spark too. So – magical - It works
Then I open fuel 5 seconds to full the carb and avoid the leak and the kick 10 times nothing except fuel escaping from the rear exhaust pipe.
Ok I stop today and let fuel evaporate during next night.
Tomorrow I will try to start using Starting spray instead of fuel. If enough time I will remove the Super B carb to begin cleaning.
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  #19  
Old 2nd November 2016
GA_Ironhead GA_Ironhead is offline
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Is your fuel fresh? It makes a big difference in kick starting.

I assume it is, because it would have been shipped dry...

Test for spark with the spark plug wires included in the circuit.
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  #20  
Old 2nd November 2016
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Thanks for message.
Yes it should arrive dry. In fact the tank was not empty. I add fuel. But I suspect the rest of fuel was bad as the fuel leaks show strange fuel quality.
Let's go to clean the carb and empty the tank.
I will remove the spark plugs and clean them too and test them with wires included in the circuit.
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