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  #1  
Old 12th December 2020
45Brit 45Brit is offline
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Default Change clutch cable...

Is there NO SINGLE JOB on this bike that doesn’t require half the workshop and the bike lift, and the removal of six other components?

Latest job, change the broken clutch lever. Ok, fine, I’ll do this in a few minutes, one handed... NOPE, from what I can see I will need to take off the clutch actuator cover, uncouple the cable at that end, fit the cable to the lever, reattach it at the clutch end and refit the cover - is that right?
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Sportster clutch cable
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Oh, FFS.... only a Sportster could make changing the clutch cable into a 15 minute video... well, the bike is the wrong way round in the workshop and there’s another bike on the lift. It’ll have to wait.
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Old 12th December 2020
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Life around a Harley is interesting to say the least. Yes, a degree of difficulty added but they last a very long time so good on that.
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I've had to replace mine twice. Once when the eye at the lever broke, and once when I changed bars.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
Life around a Harley is interesting to say the least. Yes, a degree of difficulty added but they last a very long time so good on that.
Oh well, I’ll know next time. I don’t suppose it’s a big or difficult job, with the right approach.

My 2013 Bonneville has a diaphragm clutch reputedly designed by the same team that designed the Sportster unit (actually, the whole gearbox has a distinct sense of being designed by someone who has worked on Sportsters... ). They clearly felt that this particular aspect shouldn’t be repeated; the clutch actuating arm is external, so you can swap the cable by slackening the adjusters and no oil seals need to be disturbed.
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Most replacement cables will have a Teflon line so don’t require lubrication per se. the lower end of the cable gets constant lubrication in the primary. The upper end, pivot point at the clutch lever is exposed to the elements and should have periodic lubrication for best longevity. Mine on the three Sporties typically get better than 100,000 miles with minimal attention.
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Why would you have to unhook the clutch cable from actuator to change a broken lever?
Completely loosen the adjuster mid cable, there is enough slack to get the cable out of the lever eye. I replaced levers 4 times in last 3 months (1 time broken, then in search for most comfortable set), never had to mess with the other end of clutch cable.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorfish View Post
Why would you have to unhook the clutch cable from actuator to change a broken lever?
Completely loosen the adjuster mid cable, there is enough slack to get the cable out of the lever eye. I replaced levers 4 times in last 3 months (1 time broken, then in search for most comfortable set), never had to mess with the other end of clutch cable.
You are correct. I was thinking he had to replace the entire cable.
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Old 12th December 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorfish View Post
Why would you have to unhook the clutch cable from actuator to change a broken lever?
Completely loosen the adjuster mid cable, there is enough slack to get the cable out of the lever eye. I replaced levers 4 times in last 3 months (1 time broken, then in search for most comfortable set), never had to mess with the other end of clutch cable.
Exactly! The lever is a easy 10 minutes task (is the first part as you change the clutch cable )
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