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  #51  
Old 26th September 2019
Hornsmith Hornsmith is offline
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I cleaned out the accelerator pump, though lucky for me it was actually quite clean. Always nice to know what's inside your bike though. Additionally, I took it for a short ride and noticed a few things. Firstly, since I raised the back of the bike, the rake is very steep (like extremely steep) and handling is much worse. Probably this is also because of the relatively massive rear tire. Secondly, the final drive ratio is not gonna work for this motor. With the larger rear wheel, torque is less. With the smaller rear sprocket, torque is also less. Additionally the front sprocket is 1 tooth larger (to accommodate the wider belt) reducing torque even more. The original ratio was 80/27 with a 16 wheel. Now it's 65/28 with a 17 inch wheel. While putting it together I knew this would probably be an issue, but I was hoping that the hopped up motor would be able to do it. This is not the case, and it just bogs down if I try to accelerate. Either way, the rear sprocket came with the wheel I got, so it's not a real loss there. Also, the 1125CR had a 76 tooth rear sprocket, which I have now ordered, and hopefully that'll fit the bill.
Also, I'll have to look into ways of changing the rake. I could do a front end swap, find longer fork tubes, or find a shop that's willing to rake out the front. Problems with these are that the Blast forks are 37mm which is sorta hard to find, and raking the front would come with it's own problems, like lowering the front which would make the whole bike even more tilted forward. I think it would be sick to put something like a springer on it, but obviously no one makes springer front ends for the blast, so it'd have to be custom, or maaaybe it could be adapted, but I'd have to look into that.

Also, here's a link to a pic of the new exhaust flange I got. I like it quite a bit. Also I have 1 spare if anyone needs a single exhaust flange XD
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  #52  
Old 26th September 2019
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Don’t rule out a springer front end, might be as simply as a bearing swap?
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  #53  
Old 27th September 2019
Bruce Clarke Bruce Clarke is offline
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Love the look of that flange, it reminds me so much of the ones that were on my '71 Triumph. Where did you get it?
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  #54  
Old 5th October 2019
Hornsmith Hornsmith is offline
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I was thinking about getting a springer, I really like the look and I've heard lots good things about them. However, I'm pretty sure that the blast steering stem is very different, like way longer than you'd expect. The frame is thick because of the oil tank, and then the motor mount is separately welded to the steering tube at a lower section, so I think it wouldn't be thaaat easy.
Also, I picked up the flanges on eBay a while back, I'll see if I can find more about them. I always like the look of finned flanges and the flange on my Buell was a bit bent already, like over tightened or something odd. I'm sure it could still seal, as it was putting plenty of pressure to keep the header pressed into the gasket, but it was really hard to get it over the studs.
Additionally I've started welding a wee bit. I'm very much a beginner, and don't have a welding machine, but I've been using old spare motorcycle batteries wired together. Three wired up makes my than enough to use stick welding rods, and I've extended the kickstand so it can touch the ground.
The setup splatters a lot of metal though, and I can only run the batteries for a few minutes before they start to get low. Then I charge them for an hour or so and continue. Not efficient, but hey, that's what I got. I'm gonna try some thinner sticks and only two batteries and see how that goes.
Also, I think I'll just move the shock mount up to lower the bike back down. Way easier and cheaper, and it's pretty extreme right now. I'll have to cut up the bottom of the seat pan, but that's not too hard.
Anyway, I'm out of town for a family gathering and I'll get to it soon enough
(Edited again to correct spelling)

Last edited by Hornsmith; 29th October 2019 at 04:47..
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  #55  
Old 7th October 2019
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Might wanna google search ait cooled sportster exhaust flange to find em maybe. I run em on my shovlehead.
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  #56  
Old 27th October 2019
Hornsmith Hornsmith is offline
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Haven't updated in a while, sorry about that.

Been up to a lot of stuff though. Got it all together, for the most part!
I ended up welding a new mount for the kickstand, because the back of it is raised a bit more than the stock kickstand wanted. Additionally, it interfered with the swingarm, and it would have taken a whole lot of grinding the get it to fit. I had some tool steel sitting around, which is certainly not nearly the ideal metal, but I managed to get it all together.

The old shock mount also was too low for the new shock, so I cut it off and welded it back on about an inch higher. It's also very sketchy and I started the welding with a setup that included three old motorcycle batteries wired together with jumper cables for the positive and a vice grip to old an electrode.

Needless to say, welding with batteries isn't ideal. I didn't have money for a decent welder though, and ended up buying an absurdly cheap Chinese unit for like a hundred bucks. Right out of the box the negative terminal socket was inset too far for the cable to fit in. Very inspiring. I opened the thing up and got that straightened out, and it worked fine. My welds are pretty sketch but should hold up. I will be monitoring them closely

The rear sprocket I was using was a 65 tooth from a Lightning, and a 28 or 29 tooth from a Sportster. Both of these make it geared much taller from the stock 80 in back and 27 in front. On top of that, the Ulysses rear wheel is larger. So none of that helped with power and it suffered a lot but could move. I ended up getting a 76 tooth rear sprocket from a Buell 1125cr, and went back to the 27 inch Blast front sprocket. The blast belt is only 3/4" of an inch wide though, and the sprocket is only about 7/8" wide. So that meant I had to either use the super thin Blast belt or find a wider sprocket, and I didn't want to go on a chase to get all that, as I would need to get a new belt as well and go on a chase to get sizes of everything that would mesh nicely.

Lucky for me, the new suspension setup made the rear axle a bit farther from the sprocket, and the old blast belt fits perfectly. Its got exactly the right amount of slack and the sprockets are set up perfectly in line.

It runs much better now. Or it did, until it broke down and I had to bring it back home in my van. Major problem with the clutch, but I've since fixed it. (Here's my thread on that)

It's also running too rich right now, but it currently runs.

Also, I mounted some Muskox horns on it and it looks super mean. (Click for a pic)
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  #57  
Old 29th October 2019
Hornsmith Hornsmith is offline
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Default Testing and Cam questions

Took it on a drive around town. Like 20 miles probably.

It runs alright, but misfires occasionally. I know it's running rich and I reckon that might have something to do with that.

I stopped for a school bus and shut the engine off because it's very loud and don't want to deafen the children. Also save fuel I guess eh. Anyway, when I started it again, the carb popped off. Not the first time, but I thought I'd solved it earlier by putting carb support springs like I've heard recommended before online. I've got the 'superboot' as well, but I think it actually has less clamping force due to it's singular bolt in the middle as opposed to one bolt on either end to clamp down. Either way, I guess running rich also increases likelihood of backfiring.

Also, one other thing of note. When traveling up a steep in a higher gear it sounds like something in the valvetrain is making a pinging sound. Not very loud and not a very hard sound but a light ping like if you smacked two spoons together. I tried to repeat this by lugging the engine on a flat as well and it did so. I reckon something might be a bit loose (pushrod maybe?) and perhaps I should adjust the timing.

I've got Andrews B50 cams in it, which are a fair bit different than stock. For comparison:
- - - - - - - - - Timing - - - - Duration - - Valve Lift - Spring Travel - Recommended Springs
Stock Cams: - 9.5/25.5 - - 215 - - - - - .475 - - - - -(Not listed) - - Stock
- - - - - - - - - 39/11 - - - - 230 - - - - - .475 - - - - -(Not listed)

B50 Cams: - -16/32 - - - - 228 - - - - - .498 - - - - - .530 - - - - - - Stock
- - - - - - - - - 43/15 - - - - 238 - - - - - .498 - - - - - .530

What would you guess the changes to timing are that I should make?
Keep in mind that the Blast normally runs with a throttle position sensor, but I removed mine when I swapped the carburetor out with a Sportster unit.

Last edited by Hornsmith; 29th October 2019 at 04:09.. Reason: Editted to fix formatting on my sketchy table
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  #58  
Old 29th October 2019
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Dude. Metal support plate from from air cleaner box to engine will keep the carb from popping off. Probably fix intake leaks also you seem to be experiencing maybe due to loose intake plumbing.
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  #59  
Old 2nd November 2019
Hornsmith Hornsmith is offline
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I don't have the air cleaner box, I'm currently running a velocity stack with some filters on it. I have been wanting to put a support bracket, but there aren't any easy places to mount it toward to the engine. The old bolt holes for attaching the air box are still there, but they're quite far, and a bracket crossing such a large area I would find quite unsightly. I'm sure I can find a good spot to do so, but it doesn't really concern me too much rn. I'm pretty certain that the intake is sealed when on properly, and fixing the air fuel mixture should reduce the amount of backfiring. I'm sure I will address it soon, but I'm getting busy for now.
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