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  #81  
Old 20th February 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkinkade
Good to see you getting the bike how you want it.

I put Buell peg's on mine as had a set. they are not as bulky as the stock sporty one's.
I like rear sets with reverse ( GP shift ). the roaring sporty racers in the 1990's up till about 1999. they all had rear sets reverse shift ( one up four down ); they used to ( some of them ) make there own shift leaver from a length of alloy, drill hole to fit shift spline tight. put another threaded hole for pinch bolt. you have to make a few bends, as it goes back over the derby clutch cover. then make a steel plate or alloy plate to bolt to rear of primary cover & mount foot peg too. narrows bike up and puts your feet higher. you have to pinch the shifter to the splined shift rod. Stortz made a spine cut set , but racers here in Australia I knew, did it this way as when they dropped there bikes, needed replacement sifters clutch & brake leavers, so kept a lot of spares & making shifter like that cheaper and worked.
Cheers mate, I'll keep that in mind if I can't source a stock lever this weekend. Cutting the internal splines was the only thing really stopping me from making my own lever.

Last time I rode the bike I noticed the petcock was leaking so I decided to pull it apart and improve my "manual conversion" which I'd done by flipping the spring in the vacuum section. The reason for converting to manual is so that there's one less thing to fail on the bike; a broken vacuum diaphragm can leave you stranded.



Basically I replaced the bits on the left with the aluminium plate on the right



Then, when reinstalling it I *think* I must have got a little dirt or swarf or something in the fuel line/petcock, because...



It seems that despite my best efforts the bike doesn't want to abandon traditional Harley activities like leaking everywhere haha

Time to pull the float bowl and check the needle and seat
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  #82  
Old 20th February 2019
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I've also been working on making a new intake to give me some more knee room.

Inspired by the heavy breather I've put together a rough CAD model and render of what I think will work.



Obviously needs a little tweaking as I don't have the dimensions for the carb support/breather holes, so they're just guestimated at the moment.

If it works on my bike I'll make a few sets to sell. Current plan is all aluminium, the pipe will be TIG welded to the top flange, and at the base of the 3" pipe there's a venturi stepping down to the carb diameter so there's no abrupt transition.

Any 3" pod filter will work with the setup and I'll probably make a rain shield so you don't need to run a sock.
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  #83  
Old 21st February 2019
jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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Hi Mate , I have done that ( change to manual on off petcock ) just remember now every time you turn motor off you need to turn off petcock too. has your carb float bowl got a over flow hose from float bowl or none? no leaks from my old sporty.
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  #84  
Old 21st February 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkinkade View Post
Hi Mate , I have done that ( change to manual on off petcock ) just remember now every time you turn motor off you need to turn off petcock too. has your carb float bowl got a over flow hose from float bowl or none? no leaks from my old sporty.
Hey mate,
I've had it manual converted for about 3 months, just with the flipped spring mod, so I'm used to shutting it off when I stop (used to ride dirt bikes). The diaphragm eventually started leaking which made me do this aluminium plate mod.

My carb does have the overflow hose and that's where it's leaking from. I don't have the tools with me to pull the bowl off but early next week I'll get it torn apart and clean it out. Hopefully it's nothing serious... to go from no leaks at all to a flood I think means it probably has something stuck in the seat.
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  #85  
Old 22nd February 2019
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Just messing around a bit with phone camera and Snapseed. Has some very cool effects.

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  #86  
Old 22nd February 2019
jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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It does look good!!

I have the over flow hose to float bowl too but am using a bobby wood cv that was a SE CV normally stock does not have that vent hose. but lucky u have it. as if dirt under the seat or float too high & manual petcock not turned off. only one way for that gas to go & that is into the motor. I once many years ago had my old Shovel Head Harley motor fill with gas like that. it was a kick start only!!
good luck
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  #87  
Old 5th March 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkinkade View Post
It does look good!!

I have the over flow hose to float bowl too but am using a bobby wood cv that was a SE CV normally stock does not have that vent hose. but lucky u have it. as if dirt under the seat or float too high & manual petcock not turned off. only one way for that gas to go & that is into the motor. I once many years ago had my old Shovel Head Harley motor fill with gas like that. it was a kick start only!!
good luck
Ouch! Yeah I'm glad for the overflow hose haha. I cleaned out the carburetor and it's all sealed up again. There was quite a bit of gunk in the bowl which is a bit of a worry, but it's all gone now.

I also made a new intake at work, just as a proof of concept.

Radiused intake plate



All the components I manufactured



The little breather spacers and drilled bolts



And the finished product!



I wanted to make the pipe and top plate from aluminium so I could use 10mm plate and get a bigger radius on the inlet, but I wasn't able to source an aluminium mandrel bend before the weekend.

Let me know what you think!
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  #88  
Old 4 Days Ago
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Well I got the bike looking pretty good and then... I crashed.

I hadn't noticed that my front tyre, which was pretty old and cracked when I bought the bike, was almost slick. I was going gently round a corner, maybe 25-30kph, and hit a puddle. The front slid out from under me and I hit the deck. I was wearing all the gear so no scratches or grazes from a ~5m slide but I hit pretty hard on my shoulder which is still not 100% (I crashed just over a month ago).

My own stupid fault, I'm just glad I wasn't going faster. The air filter and rear right indicator were the only bits of the bike to get properly damaged - no scratches on my new painted bits! I think the air intake actually saved me from having the bike land on my leg, so... safety feature?



ANYWAY! A couple of days later I took the front off the bike to get a new tyre fitted and to put new oil and seals in the forks.





I chose a Pirelli Night Dragon to match the rear and proceeded to partially strip down the forks.



The XL1200S forks are a little different to normal Sportster forks, having adjustable bump, rebound and preload, but overall it went pretty well for my first fork rebuild.

Painted a few bits before assembly, including my new drag bars!



Put the forks partially back together with new seals and put the right amount of oil in.



I went with 15w to stiffen up the front a bit and MAN has it worked, this thing feels way better than before.





Next up is a new ignition module to increase the redline (from 5,400 to 6,500... I've heard 7,000 is safe but I'd rather not risk it) and then I've got some Hammer 570 cams, upgraded valve springs and a FULL cometic gasket set. Wish me luck!


Last edited by Beelzeboss; 4 Days Ago at 12:19..
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  #89  
Old 4 Days Ago
Sportycus Sportycus is offline
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Glad you're alright mate. And the bike now looks good as new
Nice air cleaner too, did you make the filter yourself or dyed an existing one black and white?
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  #90  
Old 4 Days Ago
jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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sorry to read about your off. seems to have all turned out ok.
depending on ignition module you choose , but if Screamin Eagle they have a different advance curve as well as higher rev limit. 6500 is high enough, they rev to 8,000 if set up, but I would not trust stock valve train that high too often. also raving past 6,5000 more wear on rings and bore. when they raced Twin Sport sponsored by Harley back in 90's. would rev to 8,000 but new rings after every race meeting, new pistons every second race meeting. but you can't ride like they raced on the street.
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