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Sportster Motorcycle Tires, Wheels, and Brakes Discuss issues with Sportster motorcycle tires, wheels and brakes.

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  #11  
Old 21st May 2019
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Hippysmack Hippysmack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisOfTheOT View Post

Hippy (may I call you that?)
I just need to get my feet as far forward & low as possible 'cos, almost without noticing, I became old and fat and now my knee hurts!)
Absolutely.

I changed mine to forwards due to bad hips so I understand these things.

Just looking at your pedal, it being steel instead of aluminum makes it easier to copy.
You've obviously committed to spending what it takes to be comfortable.
If you have a machine shop nearby that has a guy who can tig weld stainless, (check first and make sure to get that warm fuzzy from the conversation);
You can take that pedal to him and have him build another one (to the length you want) in stainless.

That way you first set the footboards where you want, then measure where the pedal should be.

I say stainless for no rust longevity but steel would also work (and cheaper).
Stainless can also be polished to rival chrome.
And you can get creative as did XLF member, Graywolf with the material used.
This is made from stainless:
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  #12  
Old 21st May 2019
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bustert bustert is offline
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if you lengthen the rod, the pedal will swing upwards.
as mr. hippy suggested, a custom pedal
there is another option but gets complicated since you will need to build a bellcrank and shaft with adjustable ratios.
with this setup, you set the pedal movement like you want but the stroke at the master is adjustable via the bellcrank, we use this setup on steel guitars where limited pedal movement can have greater effects.
then there is hiding it so the machine looks good.
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  #13  
Old 21st May 2019
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Yeah, I guess it would.
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  #14  
Old 22nd May 2019
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rejeanprimeau rejeanprimeau is offline
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https://www.portlandbolt.com/products/nuts/sleeve/

Sleeve nut can solve your problem.
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  #15  
Old 22nd May 2019
ChrisOfTheOT ChrisOfTheOT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
... I changed mine to forwards due to bad hips so I understand these things...
Ouch - that's gotta be worse than a knee. But forwards really do help, don't they?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
... Just looking at your pedal, it being steel instead of aluminum makes it easier to copy... If you have a machine shop nearby... take that pedal to him and have him build another one (to the length you want) in stainless... steel would also work (and cheaper)...

You've obviously committed to spending what it takes to be comfortable.
I hadn't considered that Hippy - getting one made 'bespoke' is a great idea. I don't imagine it would be difficult for a chap (or chappess) who knows their onions. I'll look into that, thanks.

Yes, I am 'committed to spending what it takes' to get a comfortable ride. (Much more than my wife, Anna is, alas...) Some guys spend thousands to get every last drop of performance out of the engine, which is fine if you're into it, but I can't be fussed with a rocket-ship bike if my back screams in agony after a short while riding it. (Never been a fan of form over function - but others disagree!)

Anyway, I'll look into fabricators 'cos that idea has mileage.

Thanks Hippy,

Cheers,

Chris
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  #16  
Old 22nd May 2019
ChrisOfTheOT ChrisOfTheOT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
if you lengthen the rod, the pedal will swing upwards.
... There is another option but gets complicated since you will need to build a bellcrank and shaft with adjustable ratios...
You're right about the pedal and, in addition to an upward swing, it would effectively move backwards too as it followed its own arc: not the ticket at all! Your bellcrank idea looks like a beautiful engineering solution - but way out of my league (and, as you say, hiding it all would be a challange).

Like you, I am favouring Hippy's idea.

Cheers Bustert,

Chris
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  #17  
Old 22nd May 2019
ChrisOfTheOT ChrisOfTheOT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rejeanprimeau View Post
Sleeve nut can solve your problem.
Not really mate 'cos only one end of the rod is threaded and, as I said, the kink means it doesn't adjust any further forwards anyway. It was my first thought too!

Cheers,

Chris
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  #18  
Old 20th June 2019
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Not seeing the pics. Where do you have them hosted?

To post a photo, upload your photo to a photo hosting site. I'm using ImgBB.

Copy the 'IMG Code' in the photo hosting site (eg: 'BBCode full' in ImgBB), and paste that into your post. Don't use the 'Insert Image' button ().

You may find this helpful:
Posting Pics From ImgBB
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  #19  
Old 21st June 2019
ChrisOfTheOT ChrisOfTheOT is offline
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Morning Folkie - can't say I'm enjoying this pay-to-post, or host'n post, for pictures... I have the pictures on OneDrive (shared), but they don't load here. Plan B then.

Cheers,

Chris
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  #20  
Old 21st June 2019
ChrisOfTheOT ChrisOfTheOT is offline
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After a right palaver trying to add images to posts, I gave up... (Not done much with OneDrive before.) I’ll post the links raw instead. (The FAQ button didn't help but the last two or three posts in the Sticky 'How to insert pictures...' did - thanks to Bert & Hippy – and now Folkie too.)

This is the Extended Reach Forward Control Kit fitted to a Sportster:

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AkpWpbPFFKiTeoug...KTSRk?e=DE7OCf

It was too much of a faff to get a whole new lever made, but I hit on the idea of simply extending the existing lever - much simpler. I could get an inch or so inserted into the existing metal. (Hippy: no-one around here works with stainless steel, alas.) The local forge is run by an old friend (Paul) so I asked him to help. This is the brake lever, with the red line showing the approximate cut-line:

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AkpWpbPFFKiTfQvE...tupEs?e=bLLyXy

This marked the flattest, straightest area, so the easiest place to fabricate a piece into. This is what it looks like now:

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AkpWpbPFFKiTfEGY...SfetU?e=HC9y9P

Note that although the pedal is fitted & working, it has not been chromed as this will cost a rather impressive £50, plus postage, and take six weeks. I cannot wait that long so I'm putting off the chroming until the Winter... For now, Paul had the pedal lacquered to offer “some protection”, but it'll need more soon enough. (Powder coating seems quicker & cheaper.) Still, it'll do for now.

This is the brake lever re-fitted, although the footboard rather obscures the view - sorry about that. Still, you get the gist:

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AkpWpbPFFKiTexFi...vnqOk?e=ML3iic

I have also adjusted the board to a steeper angle again as I want to re-try the more 'natural' feel of a greater incline, even if my feet do get shaken off the boards when riding...

Anyway, getting an inch or so welded into the lever was a cheap, quick and effective way to extend the brake lever. I will need to get it finished with powder or chrome, but otherwise it's fine.

As a special bonus feature to my post: according to the Harley service page for the Extended Reach kit, the lever is part no: 42542-06. As far as I can tell, this is the same lever used on several of the FX Dynas with forward controls, until they stopped production. I could have waited for a second hand lever on eBay and then got it chromed as-and-when. Still, I didn't know that then...

Thanks again for everyone’s' help here.

Cheers,

Chris
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