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  #11  
Old 6th June 2006
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I just did the Gronk mod on my girlfriend's Street Bob, 49 state tapered. I made the flare as tight as I could and just tacked it. It doesn't seem to leak. Use a wet rag to cool the area as you weld, it shouldn't blue if you just tack it. I also experimented with the # of holes and the diameter. Didn't make as much difference in the sound or loudness as I had thought. It might flow a little better but, I can't confirm that. I like how it sounds when we ride together but, it still isn't loud enough for her. Oh well, I tried.

Last edited by 650brad; 6th June 2006 at 20:14..
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  #12  
Old 7th June 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpcycle
I have 3 questions about Gronk's mod. When the baffle is flared and spot welded in place, does it leak around the flare since it is not totally welded and probably not perfectly seated against the area it is pushed against?
Probably a little, but its at the exit end of the muffler so any slight leakage is no big deal.
It can be welded the whole way round to stop leaks but thats not necessary as the welds are really only the stop the baffle sliding out.
SE II's have a baffle that is held in by 2 small bolts so they prolly leak as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rpcycle
...Does the spot weld usually leave a blued spot on the outside chrome muffler...
Not if you follow my instructions to wrap the end of the muffler with a soaking wet towel whilst the welding is bein' done. This helps to keep the chrome cool.
Also weld in short busts so the chrome can cool in between.
If the mod is done according to my instructions you are actually leaving a bead of the old weld in there when you cut the baffle out.
This added thickness is what you weld to and also helps to prevent blueing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rpcycle
And last, has anyone done the mod to a 49 state tapered baloney cut, wondering if it is harder to do since the end of the muffler is tapered.
I have not looked at those muffs first hand so I can't comment if its possible to do my mod on them.
If the baffle can be removed with a hole saw then its possible to do my mod.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rpcycle
Congradulations Gronk for the alternative you have pioneered for everyone!
Aww shucks. Thanx.
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  #13  
Old 7th June 2006
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So many outstanding suggestions. The very BEST part of all this is that OEM stock mufflers only cost 30 ucks on e-bay. I'll do the normal Gronk Mod on the first one, then, I can buy more and experiment every now and again.

And, yeah, me too: Thanks Gronk. I'm always looking for the $5 solution to a $100 problem.
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  #14  
Old 7th June 2006
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Default For me this is a...

..."No Brainer" as I have not found anything that I like visually more than the stock mufflers. I am running a Stock 883 right now, and when I step up to a 1250 I might try Gronks suggestion of making some 1 1/2 baffles if it doesn't work it won't be that big of a loss.

Just be careful and check the Mufflers I got a set of new never run take offs and did not realize until I got them home they were CATALYST types.

Oh well them were free!

And Gronk this is for you...


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  #15  
Old 7th June 2006
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if you guys are stocking up on stock muffs to play with, try punching out the end of the baffle entirely. I've done that on a set of 04's and run them now. It's a little louder than stock, but still not so loud that it sets of car alarms. I suspect that the fact that the baffle is still installed, it still disrupts the sound and pressure waves coming out and this accounts for the relative quietness.

my $.02
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  #16  
Old 8th June 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VETRAN
..."No Brainer" as I have not found anything that I like visually more than the stock mufflers. I am running a Stock 883 right now, and when I step up to a 1250 I might try Gronks suggestion of making some 1 1/2 baffles if it doesn't work it won't be that big of a loss.

Just be careful and check the Mufflers I got a set of new never run take offs and did not realize until I got them home they were CATALYST types.
Oh, crap! I feel for you.
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  #17  
Old 8th June 2006
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Remember too that our 49 state mufflers here in the States have 14 rows of holes at the inlet side and 7 rows of holes on the outlet side.

Gronk had quite a few less holes than that in his stock mufflers.

Regards
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  #18  
Old 8th June 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksmith_wills
Remember too that our 49 state mufflers here in the States have 14 rows of holes at the inlet side and 7 rows of holes on the outlet side.

Gronk had quite a few less holes than that in his stock mufflers.
Different noise regs here in OZ means slightly different baffles.


Quote:
Originally Posted by avnsteve
..try punching out the end of the baffle entirely...
I assume you mean punching out the plug down the centre of the baffle.
A few people have tried this and run into tuning problems.
Something to do with "reversion"

I also tried this back in 96 and I thought they sounded weird.
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  #19  
Old 9th June 2006
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I found a picture of what the Screaming Eagle II baffles look like. To me, they just look like just a different kind of "Gronk."

http://www.bigcitythunder.com/media/screamin.jpg

I wonder if that "slash" in the SEII cuts down on your horsepower a bit.
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  #20  
Old 9th June 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by typerighter
I found a picture of what the Screaming Eagle II baffles look like. To me, they just look like just a different kind of "Gronk."

http://www.bigcitythunder.com/media/screamin.jpg

I wonder if that "slash" in the SEII cuts down on your horsepower a bit.

The old baffle is what cycle shack has. Some of the exhaust flow goes straight down the tube and out, some of the exhaust flow gets diverted to the outside of the baffle, then has to flow thru the holes and out.


The new baffle just looks like a flow restriction to increase backpressure and cut noise a little.........
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