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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #1  
Old 17th March 2007
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cjburr cjburr is offline
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Default 06 Clutch Install

I received my clutch spring compressor tool today and decided to perform the removal of my 883 clutch. I haven't gotten my new extra plate kevlar clutch from Energy One yet, but I expect it any day now. I will post pics of the install when it arrives.

This is a fairly straightforward task to perform if you have the proper tools. The only special tool required is the spring compressor tool that I purchased from J&P. The part # is 240-708, the cost was $84.55 delivered.

The entire removal took about an hour complete with pic taking and manual reading. I had read through the manual procedure many times and when I went to the dealer for my gasket and retaining ring I got the answers to a couple of questions I had from one of the mechanics while I was there. I've always felt better about doing something I haven't done before if I've read everything, then gotten answers to any questions before I start.

It works for me

So here we go, this job can be performed without putting the bike on a lift, another feather in the Sportsters cap.

First drain the fluid from the primary case, the drain plug is here, the one without the threads protruding from it.



Take off the left footpeg assembly unless you have forward controls.



Remove the shifter from the shifter shaft. At this point remove any corrosion from the shifter shaft so as not to damage the shifter shaft seal. It was here that I noticed that if you use those nifty little plugs on your allen bolts, put some sealer on them or they will trap moisture letting corrosion set in.







Loosen the jam nut on the primary chain adjuster just enough to allow you to back the adjusting screw out till you feel tension. This allows you to tighten it during the assembly phase till the jam nut is against the case and your chain tension will be where it was.





Take the spring clamps off the clutch cable so you can work on it, pull up the rubber boot,





Loosen the jam nut and screw it to the top



Screw the adjuster nut up against the jam nut



You should have slack like this at the lever



Using a T27 Torx bit, remove the clutch inspection cover, quad ring, and the spring and retainer nut.









Turn the adjuster screw clockwise until the nut comes off releasing the ramp assembly.







Unhook the ramp assembly from the clutch cable and take the hook off the cable.







This is what you should have removed at this point in order for the primary cover to come off.



Now you are ready to remove the primary cover. Make a template out of cardboard to keep track of where the fasteners go.



Lube the shifter shaft with some oil and pull the primary cover off. Leave the clutch cable on so you don't have to get a new seal for it. The cable is long enough to lay the cover on a towel next to the bike. (Tip here, if your wife goes to garage sales have her pick up some ugly old bath rugs, they make great protectors)



Thread the clutch spring forcing tool onto the clutch adjusting screw. You may need to use a small screwdriver to put a very slight pressure on the base of the adjusting screw, just enough to hold it from spinning. This allows you to fully thread the forcing screw onto the adjusting screw. If you don't get it all the way on, there will not be enough room for the bridge to compress the diaphragm spring.



Place the bridge of the compressing tool against the diaphragm spring, put the bearing and washer on top of that and thread on the tool handle.





Hold the forcing tool with a wrench and turn the handle clockwise. This will compress the spring far enough to remove the retaining ring.

Be careful how far you turn it as you can damage the spring if you go too far.

1/2 to 3/4 of a turn did it for me. Remove and discard the retaining ring.

Remove the spring seat from the groove in the clutch hub prongs, Then remove the whole assembly consisting of the diaphragm spring, pressure plate,adjusting screw components and the compressor tool.



Relieve the pressure on the spring by holding the forcing tool with a wrench and turning the compressor tool handle counterclockwise.













Remove the diaphragm spring and the retaining ring from the pressure plate assembly.

Remove the clutch friction discs, steels, and spring plate from the clutch hub. They are held in with suction from the oil on them and can be carefully popped loose with a long thin screwdriver.



Removal complete. I will measure the old clutch pack tomorrow for grins and giggles and be back with the install as soon as I get my new clutch pack and diaphragm spring from Energy One.
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Last edited by cjburr; 17th March 2007 at 16:40..
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  #2  
Old 17th March 2007
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Posts like this make this site. Looking forward to the install.

Thanks for all the detailed pictures and the great info!

That clutch must still have a lot of life left in it, why the change?
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  #3  
Old 17th March 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdmc_ru2 View Post
Posts like this make this site. Looking forward to the install.

Thanks for all the detailed pictures and the great info!

That clutch must still have a lot of life left in it, why the change?
This would be why

http://xlforum.net/forums/s...&postcount=223

I am curious about how much wear there is on the clutch pack, 15000 miles and blowing through it on the highway and the dyno several times, so I'll measure it tomorrow.

Chris
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Old 17th March 2007
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Good work CJ!!! awesome!!
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Old 17th March 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjburr View Post
This would be why

http://xlforum.net/forums/s...&postcount=223

I am curious about how much wear there is on the clutch pack, 15000 miles and blowing through it on the highway and the dyno several times, so I'll measure it tomorrow.

Chris
That makes perfect sense, looking forward to the results.
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  #6  
Old 17th March 2007
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Great write up again Chris!
Will the spring tool work on BT's as well?
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Old 17th March 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radar View Post
Great write up again Chris!
Will the spring tool work on BT's as well?
Yes, on some of them. Just look up part #240-708 at the J&P Cycles site for better info. It didn't say it would work on my year Sportster but the JIM'S tool at the bottom of the page said it would work on all the years this one would and my year Sportster too. So I figured this one would work on my bike and it did very nicely.

Here is the link, says it will work on BT's from 1990 to 1998 and 1991 to 2003 Sportsters.

http://www.jpcycles.com/catalog/2007...alog/0651.html

I can verify it works on 04 through 06 Sportsters also. Better made tool with better access to the retaining ring than the JIM'S tool and cheaper too.

Hope this helps, Chris
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  #8  
Old 17th March 2007
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Another great pictorial!

Thanks!
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  #9  
Old 17th March 2007
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Thanks for taking the time to post all the photos and details....I enjoyed this..
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Old 17th March 2007
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You are a lifesaver. I was reading my service manual and just wasn't getting it. Your pics saved the day. I will be changing my clutch cable tomorrow.
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