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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #11  
Old 9th November 2018
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Just take out the spark plugs and turn the engine over using the large nut on the end of the crankshaft.
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  #12  
Old 9th November 2018
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without the clutch pack, turning over the motor will only turn the basket.
you also need to look at the splines on the shaft, that powers the wheel.
mine was scored on both. if you can 't jack up the bike to turn the wheel, you will need to roll it forward a bit. makes it easier to get all the way around.

sorry to hear about your MIA friend, hopefully soon you'l get her done.
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  #13  
Old 9th November 2018
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Too bad you are not closer to San Bernardino
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  #14  
Old 13th November 2018
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I have what I think is a stock clutch in my 2003 xlh, bought bike off a lady two years back she did not ride it a lot but had serviced at dealer each year 20,000 km in 13 or 14 years. clutch feels like has SE diaphragm spring, ( heavy ) I now have 88" with Hammer impact 560 cams XB heads 10.5 comp larger intake valves 1.57 exhaust . chrome work duels. no idea hp & TQ but pulls good 2,500 to 3,500 , have only done 650 miles still runing in. clutch feels ok. maybe slow rider , who think's he's riding fast enough. but spring plate working, I'm thinking I'll feel it before it goes.
when it does go I'll put in a real clutch. what do you think?
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  #15  
Old 13th November 2018
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You can do what ever you want, I choose to remove the SP before having trouble + filing that clutch basket is not like just changing that Spring Plates. Don't forget some has destroy their tranny because of it grenading.
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  #16  
Old 13th November 2018
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You guys are NUTS (using a jewler's file). I used a Dremel 10k ago and it was easy-peasy.
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  #17  
Old 13th November 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkinkade View Post
I have what I think is a stock clutch in my 2003 xlh, bought bike off a lady two years back she did not ride it a lot but had serviced at dealer each year 20,000 km in 13 or 14 years. clutch feels like has SE diaphragm spring, ( heavy ) I now have 88" with Hammer impact 560 cams XB heads 10.5 comp larger intake valves 1.57 exhaust . chrome work duels. no idea hp & TQ but pulls good 2,500 to 3,500 , have only done 650 miles still runing in. clutch feels ok. maybe slow rider , who think's he's riding fast enough. but spring plate working, I'm thinking I'll feel it before it goes.
when it does go I'll put in a real clutch. what do you think?
It's been my observation that the vast majority of issues with the spring plate has occurred on rubber mount bikes. I believe the part number hasn't changed, but that doesn't mean there hasn't been a manufacturing change potentially causing the issue. I don't think you have as much to worry about being pre-rubbermount.

But, as rejeanprimeau points out, changing the spring plate is a lot less work than filing on the basket. And, there is potential of doing even more damage beyond what can be filed out.
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  #18  
Old 13th November 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rejeanprimeau View Post
You can do what ever you want, I choose to remove the SP before having trouble + filing that clutch basket is not like just changing that Spring Plates. Don't forget some has destroy their tranny because of it grenading.
Can you explain how a clutch spring plate going can get inside my gear box?
I think some people do burn out's, ride aggressive . I never do burn out's even when I've drag raced. I think if the spring plate starts to go I'll feel it ( the clutch working differently ) and fix it. I also think if someone damaged there gear box, they would be riding for a while with parts runing through primary and gear box. then they cry online put fear, through the internet. I got this bike with 20k kilometres up from new, I have ridden 16k kilometres since. & 1,100 kilometres since the 88" upgrade. clutch working fine, I don't ride the clutch or ride aggressively . if I feel spring plate going I'll put a proper clutch in. but keep the clutch pull light. am wondering why Harley only use the spring plate in Sportsters? I have owned all big twins, have a 2000 year Buell owned a 1997 sports sporty , then this and have had big twins since end of 1970's & I have never broken a spring plate, yet.
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Old 13th November 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Screw Loose Dan View Post
It's been my observation that the vast majority of issues with the spring plate has occurred on rubber mount bikes. I believe the part number hasn't changed, but that doesn't mean there hasn't been a manufacturing change potentially causing the issue. I don't think you have as much to worry about being pre-rubbermount.

But, as rejeanprimeau points out, changing the spring plate is a lot less work than filing on the basket. And, there is potential of doing even more damage beyond what can be filed out.
Thank's Dan, for that.
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  #20  
Old 13th November 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkinkade View Post
Can you explain how a clutch spring plate going can get inside my gear box?
I think some people do burn out's, ride aggressive . I never do burn out's even when I've drag raced. I think if the spring plate starts to go I'll feel it ( the clutch working differently ) and fix it. I also think if someone damaged there gear box, they would be riding for a while with parts runing through primary and gear box. then they cry online put fear, through the internet. I got this bike with 20k kilometres up from new, I have ridden 16k kilometres since. & 1,100 kilometres since the 88" upgrade. clutch working fine, I don't ride the clutch or ride aggressively . if I feel spring plate going I'll put a proper clutch in. but keep the clutch pull light. am wondering why Harley only use the spring plate in Sportsters? I have owned all big twins, have a 2000 year Buell owned a 1997 sports sporty , then this and have had big twins since end of 1970's & I have never broken a spring plate, yet.
I've got some thoughts on the matter, thought they're largely swags based on observation.

I just spot checked a bunch of parts diagrams from over the years. Looks to me like most/all EVO's used spring plates (I didn't check anything earlier).

It also looks like on the TC BT's they changed to a 2-piece judder spring (same function, but basically no rivets holding them together so nothing to shear).

I am under the impression that Buells also used the spring plate (as a matter of fact I seem to remember references to a Grenade Plate over at BadWeatherBikers). But maybe not all used it.

You're right I don't hear of many EVO BT failures, and I think the failures first started to really show up on Buells at some point and later on rubbermount Sportys.

My SWAG is that failures are a combination of power/load and movement.

I think that EVO BTs by and large either didn't make enough hp and/or didn't move enough in their rubbermounts to heavily stress the spring plates.

But Buells made more power and/or possibly started to move more in their mounts relative to the final drive placing greater stress on the plates and we started to see failures.

Rubbermount sportys are both heavier and make more hp/torque than solidmounts and, we know the motors move above with that rear motor mount/swingarm design. Again I think this places more stress than previous models/designs.

It's possible that Harley realized this and abandoned the design with the still heavier and more powerful TC motors. I similarly expect we won't see a spring plate on the M8s for those same reasons (though maybe they use a judder spring similar to the TCs).

Anyway, that's my swag. Now, WWKD (What Would Kev Do).

Well, on the 07 XLr I ignored it since I'd never had problems (on any of my previous EVOs), and the first 10-15k miles were put on it by my mild right wristed wife.

But around 20k it went suddenly and though it didn't strand me it could have.

I dremeled the crap out of the basket and installed extra plates to eliminate the spring plate.

If I bought a new one tomorrow I'd probably run it for 10 or 15k miles with a plan to pull it apart and install extra plates before it failed.

I might not care as much on a solidmount, but of course the more it was hot-rodded the more likely I'd be to address it.

YMMWV (wil vary).
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