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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 29th October 2021
ZTatZAU ZTatZAU is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLH1000
Sportster/Buell Year: 1973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alsfarms View Post
I am new here and am getting back on my Sporty after a decade long hibernation. I see lots of chat regarding the newer Sportsters but not so much regarding the 70's stuff. Are any mechanical upgrades available or do we simply now stay close to stock with the older bikes?
Al
Hey Al,
I'm pretty new here myself and just finishing up the resurrection of my 73 XLH after a twelve year hiatus. I've learned a lot from all the resources here as well as from the Iron Headers who I suspect are mostly all old farts like me but happy to answer questions and share their knowledge.

BTW! Do not remove your crankcase drain plug! Ever!
I removed and reinstalled mine before reading about the perils in doing so. Mine seemed to come out and go back in OK but the prevailing opinion seems to be... Don't mess with it! I'm still "bettin' on the come" that mine won't leak but I should know soon. I'm getting close to firing it up.

Good luck with your 75! ZT
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  #12  
Old 29th October 2021
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bustert bustert is offline
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when the valves stay open longer and over-lap is increased, it effects the compression dynamically. lower compression = lost power so the need to raise static ratio.
i run 10:1 in the iron
my 01 sport runs andrews n4 with about 5* retard to push the power band up scale around 500 rpm as i built it for top end and run int'l gearing.
the thing about it is that because dynamic compression is low, i run regular 87 fuel.
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  #13  
Old 29th October 2021
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Racepres Racepres is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
My favorite mod on my ‘75 was changing it to right side shift. That and an all andrews transmission.
Oddly, There is a '75 here..all original... Shifts better than any Rhube Goldburgh
setup than I have ever witnessed!!
Why it is still Original.. Except Mufflers, it now even wears a Stock Seat, and Front Fender!!!
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  #14  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
alsfarms alsfarms is offline
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Hello, I have read back through the posts that relate to my topic of a 1975 Sporty. I am not real familiar with some of the terms I read about. I would like a bit more information on these terms: dual plugs, 4-1/2 flywheels, single fire ignition. What is the way to get this 1000 cc Sporty close to 1200 cc? Who is the best source for aftermarket Iron head speed parts?
Al
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  #15  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
alsfarms alsfarms is offline
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Hello ZT..... You and I are in similar circumstances. What is the "Paul Harvey Rest of the Story" behind your comment about never taking out the crankcase drain plug? Shed more light please then I will offer a bit more information from my end.
Al

Last edited by alsfarms; 4 Weeks Ago at 22:10.. Reason: spelling
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  #16  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Ferrous Head Ferrous Head is offline
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The drain plugs are steel and the cases aluminum. Dissimilar metals and they will "weld" themselves together over time. You run the risk of destroying the threads in the case when you remove them. There is no real reason to remove them.

Al, you need to think carefully about modifying a 75. The bike is now 45 years old and if it's bone stock may be more valuable over time as it is.

Single fire versus dual fire:

Sportsters use a "wasted spark" strategy to fire the plugs. Both plugs fire simultaneously. This works (mostly) as one cylinder will be at the correct firing point (40 btdc on compression) and the other will be on an exhaust cyle, intake just starting.

Single fire delivers just one spark to each cylinder when it's required.

Dual plugs. Just as it sounds, Adding a second plug to the right side of the heads. It also requires a new ignition system (twin tower coils etc).
Every bit helps but this isn't required on a street engine. Overkill. On a flat out race engine, yes.

4 1/2 inch wheels. Stroker wheels to increase stroke and capacity."
This is major surgery and does make for a more interesting engine. It has become a lot harder to do this lately as S&S have stopped making the rotating assemblies. You need a good machinist to help you down this road.

At the end of the day you need to consider what you want the bike to do.

Are you going to race it ?

Against what ?

As an everyday rider HD got things pretty much right.

Some aren't enamored of the big gap between 3rd and 4th but around the city in traffic they are great. Some don't like points/mechanical advance but it's worked fine for a hundred years so far.
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  #17  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Regarding getting to 1200 cc - note that you can overbore these engines only to repair damaged cylinders, and you can do this only a limited number of times [usually about 7]. The only practical way to increase CCs is with stroking. There are some recent threads on this topic.
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  #18  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
RicThompson RicThompson is offline
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T&O flywheels are readily available any stroke you want. Aftermarket cylinders are available. Big bore cylinders are available. Hot rod IH's are fun. You can bracket race anything you want. At the end of the day it's all about having fun. If you want to go fast how much $$$ do you want to spend. If it's your daily ride keep it simple.
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  #19  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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shovelster was popular back in the day.
but i would rather just have the shovel, wish i never got rid of my 74 superglide. even a stock one with proper tranny ratios would surprise many, i smoked a 900rms beemer with ease back in the 70's.
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