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  #1  
Old 28th October 2018
DFuller1980 DFuller1980 is offline
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Default Isolator Advice

Hello All

First time posting here and I just have a general question. Is there a suggested mileage or age when to change the isolators? My bikes a 2010 and the mounts are in good shape not torn or rotted but they are sagging slightly. I've got friends with older bikes than mine and still haven't changed them BUT I want the best for my bike. Also will it hurt anything to just keep using them with them slightly sagging. The bike sat pretty much the whole time with the previous owner which is why I'm guessing they are sagging. Any advice is helpful. Thanks

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  #2  
Old 28th October 2018
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Toejam503 Toejam503 is offline
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Unless you're gonna upgrade to better isolators (i.e. urethane) I'd keep using them until they crack or tear.
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  #3  
Old 28th October 2018
DFuller1980 DFuller1980 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toejam503 View Post
Unless you're gonna upgrade to better isolators (i.e. urethane) I'd keep using them until they crack or tear.
When I do change them it's gonna be urethane. They are a little harsher but they hold up way better then rubber. Thanks KS for the tip.

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  #4  
Old 28th October 2018
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jzink0883 jzink0883 is offline
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I have a ‘15 XL1200CP.
Per web research and my reading of my owner’s manual and my factory service manual:

When I change the oil filter, I use the H-D funnel (#63794-10) to keep oil from spilling on the front mount.

Rule of Thumb:
- Disconnect the top-front stabilizer link at the engine
- If you have to lift the engine to reconnect the link, it’s time to replace the mounts.

From My H-D Manuals:
- Check the torque (95-105 ft-lbs) of the front-isolator mounting bolt every 12 mos or 10k mile, whichever occurs first (See #6 in pic below)
- When I check the front, I also check the swing-arm-pivot/isolator bolt (120-130 ft-lbs)
— — I haven’t found a spec for an inspection interval for the swing-arm-pivot/isolator bolt
— — NOTE: My ‘15 has a through-bolt for the swing-arm-pivot/isolator bolt. I believe ‘04–‘13 models use a bolt on each side. Your torque values may be different.

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  #5  
Old 29th October 2018
DFuller1980 DFuller1980 is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzink0883 View Post
I have a ‘15 XL1200CP.
Per web research and my reading of my owner’s manual and my factory service manual:

When I change the oil filter, I use the H-D funnel (#63794-10) to keep oil from spilling on the front mount.

Rule of Thumb:
- Disconnect the top-front stabilizer link at the engine
- If you have to lift the engine to reconnect the link, it’s time to replace the mounts.

From My H-D Manuals:
- Check the torque (95-105 ft-lbs) of the front-isolator mounting bolt every 12 mos or 10k mile, whichever occurs first (See #6 in pic below)
- When I check the front, I also check the swing-arm-pivot/isolator bolt (120-130 ft-lbs)
— — I haven’t found a spec for an inspection interval for the swing-arm-pivot/isolator bolt
— — NOTE: My ‘15 has a through-bolt for the swing-arm-pivot/isolator bolt. I believe ‘04–‘13 models use a bolt on each side. Your torque values may be different.

I never thought about the stabilizer link. That makes good sense though since the isolators should hold the motor pretty close to neutral with the links loose. Thanks for the tip.

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  #6  
Old 3rd November 2018
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Nibelungen Nibelungen is offline
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Interesting stuff...

A question:
Are we sure that the urethane insulators are better than stock ones under any profile...
IMO there are always pros and cons between two choices...
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  #7  
Old 3rd November 2018
shanneba shanneba is offline
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According to my 2013 Service manual:

Fork, rear, pivot/engine mount 60-70 ft-lbs 81.4-95.0 Nm
bolt

There are two bolts , one on each side of the rear fork (swing arm).
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