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  #1  
Old 18th September 2018
WI Bob WI Bob is offline
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Default mode of failure

I've read a lot of discussion around the potential longevity of the Evo motors, but when it does start to falter, whether at 80,000 miles or 150,000, what will the likely mode of failure be? Loss of compression and oil consumption? Something on the bottom end? Transmission?
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Old 18th September 2018
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ParrotHead ParrotHead is offline
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Mine was running strong at 206,000 miles until I tore it down to replace a bad bearing in the transmission and I screwed up the assembly ultimately killing the engine.
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Old 18th September 2018
WI Bob WI Bob is offline
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Wow, impressive! How was it running besides the bad bearing? burning much oil? From your experience getting over 200k, what did you do to maintain your bike (oil change interval, etc.)? I want to know where to focus my efforts. Thanks!!
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Old 19th September 2018
decman decman is offline
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First of all what is an EVO moter. Big Twins don't count for Sporsters.
According to HD The Sportster line is the least toublemsome bike ever built by HD...
Talking to real HD mechanics not by blow hards.
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  #5  
Old 19th September 2018
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ParrotHead ParrotHead is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WI Bob View Post
Wow, impressive! How was it running besides the bad bearing? burning much oil? From your experience getting over 200k, what did you do to maintain your bike (oil change interval, etc.)? I want to know where to focus my efforts. Thanks!!
Didn't burn any oil but was blowing it out the breathers so the heads could have been rebuilt. I was using a 1 1/2 quarts every 5,000 miles or so. Also had a base gasket leak that I fixed but then destroyed the engine right after that so not sure how much was from that but I suspect quite a bit as the top of the case was a mess.

What did I do to maintain it? I followed the service manual recommendations. Oil changes every 5,000 miles or so, several went quite a bit longer. Most miles were highway but I did not baby it.

For the bearing, I had a tight spot in the primary chain and I suspect that I adjusted it at the loosest spot and the constant pressure of the tight spot coming around is what did in the bearing. The plastic cage cracked and it slid inside the case on the shaft.
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Old 19th September 2018
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yep. hate the poly cage bearings, bad experiences with them in other equipment as well. that is why when i go in, i try to replace the split poly cage to a metal cage. i have had the poly cage break down and when the bearings touch, they skate and not roll and tear the running surface up.
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Old 19th September 2018
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Diogenes415 Diogenes415 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ParrotHead View Post
Didn't burn any oil but was blowing it out the breathers ...
Were the mushroom oil deflectors cleaned/replaced or did you run another breather arrangement?
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Old 19th September 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diogenes415 View Post
Were the mushroom oil deflectors cleaned/replaced or did you run another breather arrangement?
Doesn't matter about the little rubber mushroom valves. They are just to keep the oil from draining back down too fast. When the internal parts get enough wear on them some of cylinder pressure will begin to leak past in critical places and pressurize the areas around the heads. This is supposed to be relieved back through the throat of the carb and burned in the engine. When it becomes a little more extreme it will begin to soak the air cleaner and spit out the back of the breather cover.

You can fit the engine with plumbing to bypass the system that feeds the oil mist back into the carb throat. You can route it to a catch can or just an open hose in the rear. The engine will still run strong even with a lot of blow by. Most of the time when mine would turn loose after 150,000 or so miles it would be valve guides or valve train problems.
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  #9  
Old 19th September 2018
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ParrotHead ParrotHead is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diogenes415 View Post
Were the mushroom oil deflectors cleaned/replaced or did you run another breather arrangement?
Nope!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Graywolf View Post
Doesn't matter about the little rubber mushroom valves. They are just to keep the oil from draining back down too fast. When the internal parts get enough wear on them some of cylinder pressure will begin to leak past in critical places and pressurize the areas around the heads. This is supposed to be relieved back through the throat of the carb and burned in the engine. When it becomes a little more extreme it will begin to soak the air cleaner and spit out the back of the breather cover.

You can fit the engine with plumbing to bypass the system that feeds the oil mist back into the carb throat. You can route it to a catch can or just an open hose in the rear. The engine will still run strong even with a lot of blow by. Most of the time when mine would turn loose after 150,000 or so miles it would be valve guides or valve train problems.
The RSD air cleaner I am running has a design issue where oil can travel down to the bottom of the filter and not get sucked into the engine. It has no where to go but out and then down the right side of the bike. I tried sealing it to direct to the carb but it didn't work. The oil would find it's way past the sealant. Maybe if I didn't use slippery oil ...
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Old 19th September 2018
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Graywolf Graywolf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ParrotHead View Post
Nope!



The RSD air cleaner I am running has a design issue where oil can travel down to the bottom of the filter and not get sucked into the engine. It has no where to go but out and then down the right side of the bike. I tried sealing it to direct to the carb but it didn't work. The oil would find it's way past the sealant. Maybe if I didn't use slippery oil ...
I got it dribbling out the bottom of a stock ham can. Gets to be too much oil mist it won't all get sucked in the carb. About 150,000 on the engine on it right now. It is starting to get loose, but still runs good.
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