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  #1  
Old 25th October 2018
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is offline
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Default Speedometer Replacement - 2011 xl1200cp - how to remove

I'm in the midst of replacing my speedometer with the speedo/tach combination p/n 70900274, but am struggling with how to remove the old one. Reminder, this is on a 2011 XL1200CP.

Section 6.6 of the FSM & related FSM Figure 6-15 seem somewhat inaccurate. There are several discrepancies between the physical parts installed & the manuals.

Referring to the 2nd pic below..... briefly, I've removed:
  • the boot from the reset switch
  • the 2 screws, marked with yellow arrows
AFAIK:
  • there is nothing else holding the speedo in place
  • there is no screw in the hole marked in red (and shouldn't be)
  • there is no backing plate
  • the single fastener shown in Figure 6-15 (in the FSM) doesn't seem to exist. The parts catalog shows this single fastener as p/n 2548, screw, but again it doesn't seem to exist.
Hand pressure placed at the screw holes marked in yellow isn't enough to dislodge the speedo.

I assume I'm missing something. Any tricks I should know about in removing this speedo ? or is this as simple as a stuck gasket around the bezel, holding things in place ?

Here's the front of the speedo:


And the rear:
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Old 25th October 2018
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Nibelungen Nibelungen is offline
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Fair question
look forward to learn how it will end... sure many guys here know how to do...
if i were in your shoes... in the meanwhile i will get a look at Ronnie's...
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Old 26th October 2018
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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In the 2010 manual it says:
"Using small diameter rod or Allen wrench, gently press through bottom condensation/vent hole in speedometer housing/handlebar clamp to push speedometer from housing."

In addition to that method, I think I would reinstall the two mounting screws for just a couple threads & then press on the screw heads (gently but firmly) to see if the speedo will move up & out of the housing...

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Old 26th October 2018
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
In the 2010 manual it says:
"Using small diameter rod or Allen wrench, gently press through bottom condensation/vent hole in speedometer housing/handlebar clamp to push speedometer from housing."
Interesting.

The 2011 FSM doesn't have that.

And thx for the fresh ideas. I'll see what mileage I can get. I'll be back.
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Old 28th October 2018
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is offline
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Thx for the ideas. Didn't get too far, but it did get me thinking. Anyway, here's what I did to remove / re-install my speedo. It wasn't pretty, but I got it done. Reminder, this is on a 2011 xl1200cp. The following may not apply to your model.

There's a long way to do it (and maybe a short way). I'll describe both.

Set up:
  1. remove the main fuse
  2. cover & protect your gas tank. I used multiple towels, then a seat cushion. You'll be glad you did.
  3. optional, but most likely needed:
    • remove the headlight brow / visor (2 screws)
    • remove the riser cover (from the backside of the riser) (2 screws)
    • this will expose the wiring harness behind the headlight & riser. Needed during re-install.
  4. remove the boot from the trip reset switch. Its threaded on, so thread it off.
  5. with 3/32" allen key, remove the 2 screws from the back of the speedo housing
The speedo is now free to be pushed out, but will it co-operate? In my case, not a chance.

The short way:

There are 5 pressure points you can use to attempt to dislodge the speedo.

See corresponding point in pic:
  1. gently, but firmly press on the external housing of the reset switch. Don't press directly on the button.
  2. using a small diameter wooden dowel (or rod, or allen wrench) apply pressure thru the vent hole
  3. using a small diameter wooden dowel (or rod, or allen wrench) apply pressure thru the wire access hole. You'll need to fish the dowel between the wires. Don't pinch the wires.
  4. if the above fails, you can attempt using the screw holes at D & E. I'd suggest:
    • get 2 long 8-32 screws & screw them in at points D & E. Apply pressure there. (I found using the original 8-32 screws did not provide enough leverage.... aka the short 8-32 screws did not work for me).


For me, my speedo still wouldn't budge. So.....

The long way because I didn't know any better:
  1. stabilize the handlebars. aka hold the handlebars from flopping around. I used a rope from the ceiling to hold the bars from dropping down on my tank.
  2. to ease handlebar re-installation, I used some blue masking tape to mark the current bar alignment.
  3. remove the 4 allen screws holding the speedo housing & handle bars in place.
  4. with the speedo housing free, disconnect the LED light bar.
    • there's 4 small clips to release around the perimeter, release these first.
    • then 2 big tabs across the top. Release these next.
    • the LED light bar is now free to slide out
  5. rotate the speedo housing & place face down on the gas tank. You did remember to protect your gas tank, didn't you ?
  6. hold the speedo housing in one hand, and start applying pressure at the presure points mentioned earlier. Eventually the speedo will start to work out.
  7. START HERE if the short method worked for you.....
  8. you should find the primary speedo wires will be quite short and thus the speedo will not fully dis-engage from the housing
  9. as you work the speedo from the housing, take notice of the side vents on the speedo
  10. with a small screwdriver reach thru the side vent (of the speedo) and unhook the 2 clips holding the connector in place (see staged pic below, taken after the fact)
  11. the speedo is now detached from the housing
What it looks like with the speedo housing removed:



And with the empty speedo housing:


Staged pic, showing a reach thru the side vent & releasing the 2 tabs on the connector:


See next post.... to re-install.
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Old 28th October 2018
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is offline
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Other Motorcycle Year: 2011
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To re-install:
  • if removed, re-install the empty speedo housing:
    1. re-attach the LED light bar
      1. the LED circuit board fits into the plastic connector
      2. then the connector slides under the two large tabs, into the speedo housing
    2. position the speedo housing over the handlebars & re-install the 4 allen screws
  • fish the reset switch into the empty speedo housing
  • fish the connector into the empty speedo housing
  • position the reset switch wire, install the trip reset switch, and thread the boot onto the reset switch
  • install / attach connector onto the back of speedo:
    • you'll probably find the speedo wire is about 1" too short to easily connect
    • to alleviate this, place one hand behind the headlight and push the speedo wire upwards thru the riser, towards the speedo..... (this is why we removed the visor & riser cover)
    • with the other hand pull the speedo wire towards the back of the speedo & make the connection. The connector & wires will probably be at 90° in order to make the connection.
    • it may take several attempts to properly align the connector. Patience is key.
    • before proceeding, ensure the 2 clips are engaged between the connector & shell of the speedo
  • gently push speedo into housing, aligning 2 screw holes as you go
  • ensure 2 screw holes are aligned (hint, use a mirror), replace the 8-32 allen head screws (2)
  • if removed, ensure handle bars are tightened, replace headlight visor/brow, replace riser cover
Some pics to go with the narrative:

LED light bar back in place:


Speedo housing back in place. Wires pulled thru:


Trip reset switch in place:


Connector is already in place. Sorry no pic of that. Not enough hands to install connector & simultaneously take a pic

Speedo ready to be pushed into place:


Verify, screw holes are aligned. Far side screw hole, as seen via a mirror:


Near side screw hole, as seen via a mirror:


Finished product:
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Old 28th October 2018
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is offline
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And for those that might have found this thread, searching for p/n 70900274..... speed/tach combo ..... here's what comes in the box:
  1. new speedo/tach
  2. temporary cable (used only to sync the new guage with the ECM.... aka update the mileage). It's left over, once you're done.
  3. installation instruction sheets

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  #8  
Old 29th October 2018
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Thanks very much for updating & completing the thread - And for the great pictures of the process...

I'm glad you got it out & the new one in & working...

Enjoy the ride...

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