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  #1  
Old 6th January 2019
Bryan83taco Bryan83taco is offline
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Default Iron brake light help

Need some help guys. My bikes been down for a few months now. ‘12 Iron 883.

Can’t figure out the rear brake lights.

First, with the ignition on, it seems as though the brake lights are ON. Like I’m pressing on the brakes. When I press the front brake, all lights go out on the right (run and brake, so no lights) and the left side it seems like the brake light goes off and leaves the run light on.

Pretty stumped. Ive swapped out a few sets of lights. Not sure if I should just replace the front and rear brake switch and see if that fixes it. Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old 6th January 2019
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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There is a connector under the seat identified as 7A/B - 6-pins

Main Harness - Connector 7A/B - Under Seat:
Pin1 - Orange/White (From Accessory Power Fuse - Running Taillight)
Pin2 - Brown (RIGHT TS Signal)
Pin3 - Blue (From Lights Power Fuse - HDI Taillight)
Pin4 - Red/Yellow (Brake Signal)
Pin5 - Violet (LEFT TS Signal)
Pin6 - Black (Common Ground)


From this connector the wiring goes to the 'Tail Lamp Converter Module' - That module controls the rear TS lights & the Tail Light...

Disconnect 7A/B and use a multimeter to verify whether the signals coming thus far are correct for the operation of the turn signals & the brake switches...

IN OTHER WORDS, check to see that you DO NOT HAVE POWER on the brake wire (Pin4) when both brake levers are untouched.

Also check to see that you DO NOT HAVE POWER on either TS wire (Pin2 or Pin5) when the Turn Signal switches are untouched. (The Turn Signals probably won't actually flash with 7A/B disconnected - even the fronts - but you should not see power when they're off and you should see power (Pin2 or Pin5) when they are trying to work)


If you DO have power on the brake wire (Pin4) even though both brake levers are untouched - It is very likely that one of the switches are out of place or broken...

Check the Front Brake switch first as it is often misaligned if the lever or the right switch housings have been serviced in any way...


If all the wires have the correct signals on them at 7A/B (when disconnected) then the Converter Module may be defective...


The wiring from the converter module to the actual light housings runs under the fender and can be damaged by the tire rubbing & breaking the wires or making them bare - Check that also...


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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 8th January 2019 at 13:27..
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  #3  
Old 8th January 2019
Bryan83taco Bryan83taco is offline
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Thanks! That’s exactly what I needed. But....my battery was dead. I’ll get a new one this week and report back.
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  #4  
Old 27th February 2019
Bryan83taco Bryan83taco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
There is a connector under the seat identified as 7A/B - 6-pins

Main Harness - Connector 7A/B - Under Seat:
Pin1 - Orange/White (From Accessory Power Fuse - Running Taillight)
Pin2 - Brown (RIGHT TS Signal)
Pin3 - Blue (From Lights Power Fuse - HDI Taillight)
Pin4 - Red/Yellow (Brake Signal)
Pin5 - Violet (LEFT TS Signal)
Pin6 - Black (Common Ground)


From this connector the wiring goes to the 'Tail Lamp Converter Module' - That module controls the rear TS lights & the Tail Light...

Disconnect 7A/B and use a multimeter to verify whether the signals coming thus far are correct for the operation of the turn signals & the brake switches...

IN OTHER WORDS, check to see that you DO NOT HAVE POWER on the brake wire (Pin4) when both brake levers are untouched.

Also check to see that you DO NOT HAVE POWER on either TS wire (Pin2 or Pin5) when the Turn Signal switches are untouched. (The Turn Signals probably won't actually flash with 7A/B disconnected - even the fronts - but you should not see power when they're off and you should see power (Pin2 or Pin5) when they are trying to work)


If you DO have power on the brake wire (Pin4) even though both brake levers are untouched - It is very likely that one of the switches are out of place or broken...

Check the Front Brake switch first as it is often misaligned if the lever or the right switch housings have been serviced in any way...


If all the wires have the correct signals on them at 7A/B (when disconnected) then the Converter Module may be defective...


The wiring from the converter module to the actual light housings runs under the fender and can be damaged by the tire rubbing & breaking the wires or making them bare - Check that also...


IXL _______ >>>> My Motorcyle Chronicles Are Here <<<<
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Well it’s been a while but I finally have time. Here are my results so far.

Pin 4 12 volts with no brake applied - no voltage when front brake applied
Pin 2 & 5 .5 volts

Sound like I’ve got a bad switch. When I apply the front brake pin 4 voltage goes to 0. Power remains at 11ish volts when I apply the rear brake.

I’ve got a new front brake switch laying around. I’ll install that tomorrow.
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  #5  
Old 27th February 2019
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So the brake light went OUT when you activated the front brake?

There should be NO POWER on the R/Y Wire when neither brake lever is pressed - The fact you have power there is a problem - and, the fact that activating the front brake lever makes it go to -0v- is also a problem...

It's possible the front brake switch is causing both conditions, shorting to the incoming power when not activated & then shorting to ground or not connecting at all when activated...

You should read up on this in the service manual under electrical - Right Handlebar Switches - The manual has this warning:
Quote:
Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing a 5/32in (4mm) thick cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing the assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch.

Pin 2 & 5 should only have near 12v power when the TS is flashing for that side... When not flashing, it should have near -0v-...

If you disconnect the connector to the rear TS bulbs to test for voltage, the flashers may not flash at all, but instead stay at steady ON due to the missing load of the rear bulbs... but you should see the power difference from 0v to 12v when you activate the TS for that side, or when activating the 4-way flashers...

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Old 27th February 2019
Bryan83taco Bryan83taco is offline
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Updates.

After removing the front switch from the circuit, brake lights are off when Key is turned on.

Installed new front brake switch and I get the same response from the old switch. Both brake lights turn on when key is turned on.

Front and rear turn signals/4 ways work fine.

So the new switch did not solve the problem. I feel like there is a short somewhere in between the handlebars and the brake lights on one of the two front brake switch wires.

Handlebars are internally wired by myself. I've done this a few times on my bike. It's fair to say I've done lots of rewiring on this thing.

Rear brake lights work fine with front switch removed from circuit.

Here's a shameless pic



I’m fine with riding it for now with the rear brake lights working but still need to figure out this front brake switch. I’d rather not take off the bars and go through the internal wiring but if I need to I will.
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Old 28th February 2019
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Front Brake Switch -

With keyswitch off
- Use meter on OHMs scale to test each wire
- neither wire should be grounded
- ORANGE/White should go to Accy Fuse - Check OHM/Continuity
- RED/Yellow should go to Brake Light Bulb - Check OHM/Continuity

With keyswitch ON
- one wire should be 12v - ORANGE/White from Accy Fuse
- other wire should be connected to brake light - RED/Yellow
--- Should be no voltage on this wire unless rear brake is activated


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Old 28th February 2019
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Had you done any recent work on the bike just prior to this problem occurring?
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  #9  
Old 28th February 2019
Bryan83taco Bryan83taco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Front Brake Switch -

With keyswitch off
- Use meter on OHMs scale to test each wire
- neither wire should be grounded
- ORANGE/White should go to Accy Fuse - Check OHM/Continuity
- RED/Yellow should go to Brake Light Bulb - Check OHM/Continuity

With keyswitch ON
- one wire should be 12v - ORANGE/White from Accy Fuse
- other wire should be connected to brake light - RED/Yellow
--- Should be no voltage on this wire unless rear brake is activated


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Thanks man! You’ve been a lifesaver here. I’d buy you a case of beer if you were closer. I’ll check that tomorrow and get send updates.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jharback View Post
Had you done any recent work on the bike just prior to this problem occurring?
Not really. I tried swapping in some rear LED drop in bulbs but pretty’s sure that’s not what did her in. But they did work fine before the leds.
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Old 28th February 2019
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan83taco View Post
Here's a shameless pic

Nice bike - we always like pictures...

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