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  #21  
Old 12th August 2014
JonesL JonesL is offline
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My castings or "fauxgings" (fake forgings) as I call them, are actually machined out of 1050 steel billet. The donor stock is a diesel locomotive axle I bought as scrap.
After I machine them out and shape them, I go over the surfaces with a needle scaler (usually used to remove heavy rust or mill scale prior to welding) which gives them the rough texture similar to a casting.

hcrashster, Yep, domestic .120"wall DOM tubing. Like the original board trackers, only one down tube from neck to my one to two adapter.
Extra support is provided by engine plates I copied from period photographs.

merc, Here's a drwg. of my frame.


Last edited by JonesL; 1 Week Ago at 19:09..
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  #22  
Old 12th August 2014
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loridr loridr is offline
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I love these things, can't wait to see this come together. What do you plan on running for a front end and are you planning on fabing it?
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  #23  
Old 12th August 2014
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loridr,

Because I can't find one commercially that I like the looks of, I'm going to copy the early springer design complete with the tall, exposed top springs.
I've already got my upper and lower triple trees about 75% done (starting to do the final shaping and texturing) as well as the stiffener for the free ends of the forward down legs. Got all the tube ends and rockers machined and once the frame is done and on the frame stand, I can start to cut the tube legs to length.

Somedays I feel like the only things I'm not going to end up doing is growing the rubber for the tires and smelting the steel. But hey, a boy's gotta have a hobby, right?
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  #24  
Old 12th August 2014
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Outstanding. I see the game plan now.

I have few regrets in life, but one of them was not becoming a machinist.
Probably for the best as I'm certain that 2+2= 3.9968

This is going to be a wild looking bike.
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  #25  
Old 12th August 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcrashster View Post
Outstanding. I see the game plan now.

I have few regrets in life, but one of them was not becoming a machinist.
Probably for the best as I'm certain that 2+2= 3.9968

This is going to be a wild looking bike.
Ah-ha... the plot thins. Glad to share and clarify.

I think I have as much fun figuring out how to make the various pieces so that they fit and do their job as I do riding the finished bike.

Re; 2+2=3.9968 ... it doesn't?
I've seen some old machinist's rulers graduated down to 1/128" increments.
I figure if I'm close to the marks on my yardstick, I'm all but there.
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  #26  
Old 12th August 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonesL View Post
loridr,

Because I can't find one commercially that I like the looks of, I'm going to copy the early springer design complete with the tall, exposed top springs.
Extreme Cool.
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  #27  
Old 12th August 2014
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1/128"??

Damn 0.0078125 raises it's ugly head again, but who are we to argue with 7 decimal points to the right accuracy?

Please keep us posted on your build.
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  #28  
Old 12th August 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonesL View Post
My castings or "fauxgings" (fake forgings) as I call them, are actually machined out of 1050 steel billet. The donor stock is a diesel locomotive axle I bought as scrap.
After I machine them out and shape them, I go over the surfaces with a needle scaler (usually used to remove heavy rust or mill scale prior to welding) which gives them the rough texture similar to a casting.

hcrashster, Yep, domestic .120"wall DOM tubing. Like the original board trackers, only one down tube from neck to my one to two adapter.
Extra support is provided by engine plates I copied from period photographs.


with the single down tube you'll be able to remove the oil pump,without removing the motor. i'm still thinking about how the extra plate's will compensate,for the missing down tube.
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  #29  
Old 13th August 2014
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From the neck to the top frame bolt, the down tube is straight and fairly short so I'm not too worried about flex there. As the down tube starts to curve back, the plates will add rigidity.
Also, unlike the 1" factory frames which have a larger thru-hole with bushing, the bolt holes in my 1 1/4" down tubes are drilled for the bolt diameter only. Further adding to strength, the flat-faced bushings that bridge between down tube and motor mount plates are "fish-mouthed" then tack welded to the outside walls of the down tube. The final touch is silver soldering the bushings so that the joints have complete contact/adhesion.
I studied the stock frame I salvaged the rear trans mount from and this is the way the factory did the tubing-to-forging joints.

Last edited by JonesL; 1 Week Ago at 21:28..
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  #30  
Old 13th August 2014
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Should work fine Jones. That's the quandary of building a board tracker from a Sportster, a board tracker just isn't a board tracker without a single loop frame.

I think you've come as close to replicating the style as best as can be accomplished with the way the Sportster engine mounts in the frame.
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