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  #1  
Old 2nd November 2020
staniel's Avatar
staniel staniel is offline
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Default Drum brake rod interferes with hardtail frame

I'm trying to build a 1971 XLCH chopper and I mocked up the rear wheel this weekend.

When the wheel is lined up in the center of the frame, the rear brake rod wouldn't be able to mount to the drum - it interferes with the frame. See the picture below:

https://ibb.co/pvrqrhD

What are some ways around this? I was thinking I could flip the lever arm upside down (180degrees) so that the brake rod would be below the axle instead of above, but I read some forum posts advising against that.

What are my options?
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  #2  
Old 2nd November 2020
Iron Mike Iron Mike is online now
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That’s a cable set up rear backing plate.
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  #3  
Old 3rd November 2020
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Yup, that’s a cable type backing plate.

If you insist on a rod...This is what I did before I switched to a disc.
It’s kinda overkill but it worked.
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Old 3rd November 2020
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If you flip the lever it will work in compression, and must be much stronger.
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Old 3rd November 2020
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Also if you flip it and reverse the action, you need to file the brake cam down correctly or risk locking the rear brake up.
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Old 3rd November 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim The Grim View Post
Yup, that’s a cable type backing plate.

If you insist on a rod...This is what I did before I switched to a disc.
It’s kinda overkill but it worked.
Nice work!
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Old 3rd November 2020
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I flipped the lever down and ran the rod low. Doodah is right about rounding over the "corners" on the rear brake cam.
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  #8  
Old 3rd November 2020
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As others have said, you will want to pull the brake cam and file a bevel on the squared edges, otherwise you risk the flat sides "locking" between the brake shoes and subsequently locking the rear wheel.
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Old 3rd November 2020
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the brakes on these machine were in the shinola department. sure they would slow down but lock up at speed was near impossible on a good surface, lower speeds yes. i could stand on mine and lock up was probably around 25mph. only fix was aggressive materials and more drum wear.
however, i can see the point with the cam. only other way is to run close tolerance and limit travel. shoe and drum need to be right on or you will get grab/release syndrome.
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Old 4th November 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Mike View Post
That’s a cable set up rear backing plate.
If I were to get a different backing plate, do you think the rod would clear the frame? Or Do you think that I'm pretty much stuck to using a cable because of the shape of the frame?
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