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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 3rd December 2020
npaisnel npaisnel is offline
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Originally Posted by mrmom9r View Post
but at some point you'll probably pull the top end for a re-paint .

.


Paint it and destroy that old look

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  #12  
Old 3rd December 2020
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Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
90 PSI I can only get them to start on rollers.

If it's the same on both cylinders it's most likely just worn cylinders. Possibly why they parked it all those years ago.

The bike will repay you for any time and money you put in.
It did (kinda) run when I had my wife pull pull me with my pickup. Had no seat, no fender (sitting on the fender struts) and no electrics and clutch was stuck. At that point wisdom told me to wait till clutch was in working order and I could put it in neutral.
__________________
SW WA 1968 XLCH

Last edited by fernf5; 3rd December 2020 at 18:31..
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  #13  
Old 3rd December 2020
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Originally Posted by Rodzilla View Post
Nice project...... personally I would soak those cylinders for a few days and see if there was a change in compression..... In my experience an increase in compression, albeit sometimes small, is not unusual. Top end required or not, the bike is definitely worth the effort and expense.
Thanks, hopefully I wall have it together enough to try to start it in the next week or two. I'll let you all know how it does. It would be nice if the compression increased...
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  #14  
Old 3rd December 2020
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Originally Posted by Magneto Sportster View Post
Isn't this bike for sale on Facebook right now?
Maybe the PO didn't take the add down. I've had it 2 weeks or so.
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  #15  
Old 3rd December 2020
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Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
+1 ^^^
I'd bet on 130+ when tested at full operating temperature
I like your thinking! I'm kinda hoping I can ride it a little and see what all the bike tells me it needs before I do a tear down.
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  #16  
Old 3rd December 2020
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Originally Posted by mrmom9r View Post
Agree. Put a couple of tablespoons of ATF in each cylinder for a few days

just in case the ring grooves are varnished up but at some point you'll probably pull the top end for a re-paint .

Great starting place you have there. Good Luck.
I've put oil in each, I will try the ATF.
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  #17  
Old 3rd December 2020
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Originally Posted by npaisnel View Post
Hold the carb slide wide open too..take air filter off and hold butterfly by hand if need be
Carb is off the bike and compression didn't change. When I was in the guys barn checking the bike out we did a compression check (not sure if we held the carb wide open or not)and I was getting more like 140 front-150 pounds rear. We had shot a little oil in the cylinders. Not going to dwell on that for the moment I'll see how it runs and re-check compression.
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  #18  
Old 3rd December 2020
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Originally Posted by fernf5 View Post
I've put oil in each, I will try the ATF.
Some swear by a 50/50 mixture of AFT and acetone, others swear by Marvel Mystery Oil, which is probably the 50/50 mix...... Probably doesn't matter too much...

But, let's agree on this, you should just send me that F5 in your avatar.... Mine is a 1918 A-style.
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  #19  
Old 3rd December 2020
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Speaking of carbs-the 68-69 Tillys have a ball valve in the accelerator pump circuit. My carb kit replacement diaphragm didn't have one. Guess it was an improvement? Are these available anymore?
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  #20  
Old 3rd December 2020
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Originally Posted by Rodzilla View Post
Some swear by a 50/50 mixture of AFT and acetone, others swear by Marvel Mystery Oil, which is probably the 50/50 mix...... Probably doesn't matter too much...

But, let's agree on this, you should just send me that F5 in your avatar.... Mine is a 1918 A-style.
That's Bill Monroe's mando. Million dollars for that one. Took the pic in the Bluegrass Museum in Nashville. I have an F5 Fern model.
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