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  #11  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JunkyardDog View Post

I would use full synthetic 20w50, and change it every 2500 miles. If you can get the temperature down to 220 or below, you can change it at 3000. I have never left the oil in any motorcycle for more than 3000 miles. Motorcycles are very hard on oil, especially air cooled ones.
OH JEBUZ FRUCKING KEY-RIST here we go again.

I especially like the part where YOU'VE NEVER DONE IT, so how the heck would you know the oil needs to be changed that soon?!?

Well, I guess it's officially an oil thread.

EVEN HARLEY thinks their DINO juice can last for 5k miles under most service conditions (see your maintenance schedules).

If you're running full synthetic the chances of it needing to be changed earlier than 5k are somewhere between slim and notafruckingchance.

Synthetics can deal with temperatures FAR greater than dino, they don't break down in the same way as dino oils, and are far more likely to require replacement due to contamination (which happens more in cold/wet temps) and the usage of the additive package than from thermal breakdown.

As someone who has exculsively run synethinc fluids for decades in multiple EFI Harleys, and Guzzis, and BMWs, I have never NEVER EVER felt the need to drain the oils early. I've never NEVER EVER seen any oil related problem on any of my bikes or the bikes I service for others.

I've seen oil analysis suggesting that even 5k is ridiculsouly conservative.

So please, just once, get an analysis done and STOP THE MADNESS.

< / rant >
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  #12  
Old 1 Week Ago
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while oil analysis is a good tool, it is not a silver bullet.
you first must setup a baseline. you pick the flavor of oil you want and send in a clean sample, you are pretty much locked to this brand unless you baseline again. now from this, the lab can base the samples and keep a running log to pickup any trends.
time between samples matters too, once a month is better than say once a year (not suggesting at all-just saying).
pick a good lab, offshore, we had suspicions and sent in known bad samples (because we contaminated them) and the lab did not respond, changed labs!
also, if a sample comes back bad, a re-sample would be in order, but then again a few qts isn't like a couple drums. if a trend is found, then sample rate is increased.
now if you are trying to max out intervals, you need a centrifuge, media filter while good and screens even worse can do some good, they are not a silver bullet either.
frankly, i ran 175k without regard to oil weights and such and was still going. i had to paint the frame so engine out, up'd the ponies but engine wear was basically nil, the worst was bore taper which .010 cleaned up. all of this without a filter but i did change oil very often, the key.
the "?" good maintenance money spent or give someone else money to tell you to change oil, your call.
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  #13  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. Just change the freakin oil and filter every 5K, use a good quality oil and ride it like you stole it. Too many other things in life to do and to worry about. Owned a lot of bikes over the last 48 years (and used to motocross) and have 70K on this one, never had one seize or wear out prematurely. I take good care of all my equipment, but don't treat them like science experiments or get OCD about the small stuff. IMHO
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  #14  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Dayum....... all the guy wanted to know is if the hose under there was the right place to drain the oil.
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  #15  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graywolf View Post
Dayum....... all the guy wanted to know is if the hose under there was the right place to drain the oil.
I know. Right? Poor guy is going to be more paranoid than ever now.
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  #16  
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For the record, I'm not saying that people need to use oil analysis every time (or even once). My position is the ONE entity that has the most to lose if their oil change intervals wrong is the manufacturer. Because if their bikes start dropping like flies, there goes their reputation. So manufacturers generally choose conservative recommendations. Unless you're doing something extreme, just follow their recommendation and be done with it.
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since I had just bought it, and it had 4500 miles on it, at this time, im just going to change with syn3, and watch it carefully, and assume all will be well. perhaps the first oil or first and second oil can be contaminated more due to break in. or the rider ran in exceptionally difficult conditions. yes, I believe 5k is a proper interval for oil changes, as stated by factory, but Ill look and smell the oil earlier, as I do with my vehicles and my old jap bikes. what I did take from the post above, however is the lean condition and its effect on temps, and buying a thermometer dipstick, and finding out how hot is too hot. It does have a stage 1, and fairly heavy pops on decel, so I know Im running lean. cannot verify it was ever tuned, and do not see a commander. may need a professional to evaluate that. I ride on hot days and in a lot of traffic, so I need to keep and eye on temps - im riding air cooled now. thanks for the advice, been a learning couple of days for me. next stop is changing all 3 fluids in the softail.
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  #18  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
while oil analysis is a good tool, it is not a silver bullet.
you first must setup a baseline. you pick the flavor of oil you want and send in a clean sample, you are pretty much locked to this brand unless you baseline again. now from this, the lab can base the samples and keep a running log to pickup any trends.
time between samples matters too, once a month is better than say once a year (not suggesting at all-just saying).
pick a good lab, offshore, we had suspicions and sent in known bad samples (because we contaminated them) and the lab did not respond, changed labs!
also, if a sample comes back bad, a re-sample would be in order, but then again a few qts isn't like a couple drums. if a trend is found, then sample rate is increased.
now if you are trying to max out intervals, you need a centrifuge, media filter while good and screens even worse can do some good, they are not a silver bullet either.
frankly, i ran 175k without regard to oil weights and such and was still going. i had to paint the frame so engine out, up'd the ponies but engine wear was basically nil, the worst was bore taper which .010 cleaned up. all of this without a filter but i did change oil very often, the key.
the "?" good maintenance money spent or give someone else money to tell you to change oil, your call.
Agreed, note I said "If concerned with your oil"

I chose to spend the money on regular oil analysis because of the miles on my engine and the type of riding I do. It certainly isn't needed by most unless they suspect there is a problem
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