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Rubber Mount Sportster Motorcycle Talk (2004-2006) This area is to discuss issues, problems and anything else unique to the 2004 and above Sportster motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 9th January 2019
htown16 htown16 is offline
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Just how in the heck do you get a wrench on the nut holding the negative cable end on the stud on the crankcase? I couldn't a socket past the wiring harness over the top of it and there was no room for an open or box end wrench. I ended up pulling the rear belt cover off and coming at it from under the belt with a box end wrench. The rear belt cover was a bitch to get off because the brake rod blocked the lower bolt and almost wouldn't let the cover come loose. Harley says you should undo this end of the cable every time you pull the battery. Yeah, right!
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  #12  
Old 9th January 2019
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spitfirechopper spitfirechopper is offline
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i just take the sprocket cover off and use an open end spanner
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  #13  
Old 9th January 2019
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A swivel head key. It's the only 7/16 key I own with a swivel head.
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  #14  
Old 9th January 2019
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I moved mine to the through stud and nut on top of the primary.
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  #15  
Old 9th January 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XL Ed View Post
I moved mine to the through stud and nut on top of the primary.
Yeah, what Ed said. Run the cable across the top of the battery, down & out the bottom of the cover, to the stud on the primary case that has the other ground wires on it. Much easier to get to & you can pull the battery out a lot easier, too.
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  #16  
Old 9th January 2019
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got any pictures?
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  #17  
Old 9th January 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spitfirechopper View Post
got any pictures?
Here's the Sportsterpedia section on Ground Checks:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:elec01

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  #18  
Old 9th January 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XL Ed View Post
I moved mine to the through stud and nut on top of the primary.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BKB View Post
Yeah, what Ed said. Run the cable across the top of the battery, down & out the bottom of the cover, to the stud on the primary case that has the other ground wires on it. Much easier to get to & you can pull the battery out a lot easier, too.
Exactly, and the added benefit is that the ground is now on the left half of the case, which means it is more directly connected to the starter. The starter draws the most current on the bike, so eliminating that case seam will ensure you don't have any voltage drop from the seam.

Note: I use 4 ga. and solder the lugs on. as mentioned, don't overheat any solder joint. Use a torch on the lug like soldering a pipe. Get it hot fast, get the solder in, and get the heat off quickly. Otherwise, the heat will move down the cable and pull the solder with it.

On the ground cable, the ends get corroded inside the strands at the lug. For that reason I never heat shrink the ends of ground cables to allow them to dry out rather than collect moisture under the shrink.
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Old 11th January 2019
PetesPonies PetesPonies is offline
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The factory has the battery in backwards. You should always attach the ground cable last, which cannot be done the way it was original built. SMH
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  #20  
Old 12th January 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PetesPonies View Post
The factory has the battery in backwards. You should always attach the ground cable last, which cannot be done that was it was original built. SMH
Ain't that the truth! In my owner's manual it says to unhook the Neg. cable from the crankcase stud. Then it says to disconnect the Pos. and remove the battery w/ Neg. cable attached. Trying to get that Neg. cable up and thru that tiny little area, is quite a chore.
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