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  #21  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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I've used Caswell too. If you clean the tank properly before applying it, you will never have a problem. It will seal small pin holes too.
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  #22  
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Piemonte Piemonte is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1nw View Post
If I did it again, I would have THINNED it a LOT with acetone, and used half pint only. When that dried, I would do the same again. It is really THICK. You have to keep turning and rotating the tank until it dries.
Then perhaps you would find you had a less than ideal finish.

Seriously, the manufacturer knows their stuff. Acetone doesn’t just thin, it chemically (and physically) alters the binding of the cocktail of ingredients. Stick to the plan, no shortcuts. In all likelihood that is the origin of many complaints about why ‘tank sealants are crap’. Yes, it is a marathon of twisting and turning the tank once you pour in the sealant. I allocate at least 10 minutes to this step just to ensure all parts of the tank are adequately covered. There’s always surplus, I’ve often poured out half of what I just put in. But you know the best part? You’ve done the job correctly and you won’t have to revisit it. Your tank is now rust-free and will stay that way.
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  #23  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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imho a tanksealing is nothing for the novice or amateur, I have seen enough tank where the sealing was not done professional .Those tanks are scrap because it´s expensive to get the sealing out.
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  #24  
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So where does one find a professional? If I ever get back to restoring the 78 XLH, I'll be buying a used gas tank that will be 40 years old or older and will most likely need to have the interior coated. I've never coated a gas tank, so I'm definitely not a professional. How do I find one?
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  #25  
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normally people who restore or repair old bike in your area know who does this job wright
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  #26  
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There are 40 year old tanks with only “surface” rust. Those can be etched clean and used without sealing.
Muriatic acid works for me. Done it many times.
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  #27  
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Quote:
Yes, it is a marathon of twisting and turning the tank once you pour in the sealant. I allocate at least 10 minutes to this step just to ensure all parts of the tank are adequately covered.
Which is why I bought me a used gas dryer for the shop.
Sometimes. iN LARGER TOWNS. tHEY GIVE THEM AWAY. Friggin caps lock.
Friggen large fingers.
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  #28  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Mike View Post
There are 40 year old tanks with only “surface” rust. Those can be etched clean and used without sealing.
Muriatic acid works for me. Done it many times.
Agreed. My most recent acquisition, a 1967 Suzuki two-smoker, had a fuel tank requiring nothing more than surface rust treatment. A very pleasant and unexpected surprise. No sealant needed. Now I just keep the tank full, (using fuel stabiliser to ensure longevity). As I said in an earlier post, use the sealant only when the tank requires it.
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