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Sportster Motorcycle Tires, Wheels, and Brakes Discuss issues with Sportster motorcycle tires, wheels and brakes.

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  #11  
Old 15th October 2018
John Harper John Harper is offline
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I knew there was a reason my stainless steel line is still on the shelf. I figured it would be a PITA. There's about as many methods of bleeding as there are opinions on oil. It would be nice to find an easy (sans Mighty Vac) one that works.

The lever to the grip method just never made sense, as the MC piston should close off the reservoir in order to pressurize the line, so nothing would flow in anyway with lever tight against grip.

The "open" bleed screw and let it sit (gravity method?), perhaps maybe tap (jiggle?) the new line, seems to make sense. But, how long should one expect to wait for the line to bleed? And, maybe compressing back the caliper pistons would make it easier? IDK.

John
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  #12  
Old 15th October 2018
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It never hurts to check the Sportsterpedia to see what advice may have been compiled there from the forum.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...leeding_advice
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  #13  
Old 15th October 2018
Randy_rots Randy_rots is offline
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Hi

From my quite long experience with all the methods of brakes bleeding I found out that when they did not bleed right away by using vac pump, it was an MC problem that needed rebuild.
One time it was too small MC to the setup...
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  #14  
Old 15th October 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Harper View Post
I knew there was a reason my stainless steel line is still on the shelf. I figured it would be a PITA. There's about as many methods of bleeding as there are opinions on oil. It would be nice to find an easy (sans Mighty Vac) one that works.

The lever to the grip method just never made sense, as the MC piston should close off the reservoir in order to pressurize the line, so nothing would flow in anyway with lever tight against grip.

The "open" bleed screw and let it sit (gravity method?), perhaps maybe tap (jiggle?) the new line, seems to make sense. But, how long should one expect to wait for the line to bleed? And, maybe compressing back the caliper pistons would make it easier? IDK.

John
The biggest problem with opening the bleed screw and expecting fluid to flow out along with air is that it totally defies physics.

Air won't move down with the fluid, it will always try to rise as the fluid moves down. Also, once some fluid drips out, air will just replace what dripped out because the weep hole won't allow fluid to drain out fast enough to keep up with the flow. I have never been able to open a drain screw, even momentarily without introducing a good bubble of air.

I would agree that pushing the pistons in could help with bleeding.

Still, the mity-vac is hands sown the best.
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  #15  
Old 16th October 2018
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I've been down this road man, telling you... do it slow... check out my post and listen to rottenralph. http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=295750
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  #16  
Old 16th October 2018
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Wedge,
Can you explain the Mighty Vac Method?
I've heard it a lot but don't understand how it works.
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  #17  
Old 16th October 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
Wedge,
Can you explain the Mighty Vac Method?
I've heard it a lot but don't understand how it works.
basically sucking the fluid out of the system's hoses, calipers, and master cylinder using a small hand held vacuum pump (known brand: Mighty Vac) and drawing all the air out with the brake fluid...but it doesn't always work when tiny air bubbles are trapped in crevices etc inside the internals of the master cylinder...
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  #18  
Old 16th October 2018
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Heres a You Tube video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTySPh9xXJs
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Old 16th October 2018
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one strong point for the vac method is that any entrained air is pulled out of the fluid. you can pull from caliper to master by disconnecting the brake line, gives a place for the hose, once the line is air free, connect loosely to master and pump air from master, once good, tighten line.
THE BEST WAY IS WITH THE USE OF A COLLECTION JAR AND CLEAR TUBING.
you can also pull vac from caliper bleed nipple to draw down from master, make sure it stays full and when filling, do so slowly so as not to entrain air.
again, collection jar and clear tubing.
there is another way but involves making a ported master plate. you do not needs gobs of vac, you want time for the air in the fluid to be pulled to the low pressure created by the pump.
the kit should have come with a collection jar. i made one larger with a quart mason jar with a metal lid that had two metal nipples soldered through it. i used glass since plastic will collapse.
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