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  #81  
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If (on a cold motor) you can spin the pushrod with your fingers with the valve closed they are not too tight.

That alone does not mean the valve is closed/sealing.

That said, the compression will come up on a hot motor, 90# is the lower limit for a motor to run. So without any compression oriented work that motor should start.

You need spark at the right time and compression and add some fuel and it WILL run.

You should have fresh spark plugs not fuzzy or oily black plugs.

Perhaps your ethanol laden fuel has absorbed enough water and it has separated and the carb now has too much water in it to fire. (smells like gas but will not vaporize and ignite)
Use some spray carb cleaner as supplemental fuel to eliminate the water thing as a cause. Open the throttle and give it a 1 second blast of cleaner, then close the throttle and try to start. It should pop or fart or do something if it doesn't start...try again.
If it does nothing it's likely you have no spark in the cylinder.
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  #82  
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So I checked the tappets about 20 times to makes sure I'm not crazy and that they're adjusted properly - which they were.

And I got to thinking about what someone said about lower compression is harder to start and then I saw a video of someone kicking their shovelhead started. I don't kick very hard because I got it started a while ago by basically just leaning on it and I don't wanna jump a a gear tooth and break my knee.

But I threw caution to the wind and really cranked it hard and it started! It started with the enricher on for about a minute (@1000ish rpm), gave it some gas while I turned the enricher off and it would idle roughly til it died. I'm guessing it wasn't warmed up enough.

I started it again without the enricher cause it was still warm and BAM! right away it started. I adjusted the carb a bit to get it to idle at about 900-100rpm.

When to take it for a spin and had to ride thru the backyard... Immediately fell in the wet grass cause the throttle return spring got sticky hahaha
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good deal.sounds like your on the right track.ride it and see what happens.mine?idles great,1st and second ok,tries to die in 3erd and 4th.thats on my '85 drag race bike,had to take the starter off it and put it on my everyday '83 stroker.funny that it runs fine with a mikuni on it.new starter in it i'll button it up this weekend and fire it(neighbors love that,hahaha)there seems to be something wrog with the enrichener seat.i'll be lapping it sooner or later.where do you live and whats the temp?94 up here in the mountains today.gonna get hot and nasty,over 100 the next few days.oh well better then the snow I ride thru in the winter.'83 is my only transportation.some days good,other days not so good
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You will learn about the kicker, You cannot treat it like a dirt bike or it will hurt you. I call it a kicker and call foot starting kicking but you don't kick it like a dirt bike. You start off slow and follow through using your weight to spin up the flywheels. The flywheels do the work.

One of my tricks is to poke at the kicker and get the ratchet set firmly and then hold the lever down against the ratchet before dropping your weight on the kicker.
If you allow the lever to rise at all it will unseat the ratchet and the possibility of a slip is very likely.
When you drop your weight on the lever you need to follow through and hold the lever down until the motor stops turning or starts. when you hold the lever all the way down it disengages so it can't kick back on you. And when you follow through you add that inertia to the flywheels and that is what gets it spinning fast enough to fire (as you found).
I kick start them on the side stand with my left knee on the seat, my left knee holds me up while I set the kicker ratchet, I poke at it and roll the motor to where I can get the kicker at the highest point and the ratchet fully engaged. Then I raise up enough to straighten my leg and drop my weight on the lever. With the bike on the side stand you will avoid raking the inside of your knee on the upper shock mount. It is not hard on the side stand as the kicker is on the other side of the bike and weight is actually lifted from the side stand as you kick.

A working kill switch on the bars helps to keep you from getting bucked off while you roll the motor into starting position which is about half way up on the compression stroke. If you go past that half way point be sure the ignition is off or it may give you a ride or worse. Setting the motor at half way on the compression stroke lessens the energy needed to get past TDC and it provides some resistance against the kicker so you can get the ratchet set without the motor rolling away from it. If the motor rolls away, stop and bring the motor back to half way up on compression or it may bite you.

Setting the kicker ratchet and holding it set is the key to not slipping and following through is the key to not be bucked off and to get a good spin into the flywheels.

All of this is more difficult with a cold motor or one that is sumped. I am not hesitant to shine a heater on the motor for an hour or three to warm it up and thin out the oil if it has sumped. Otherwise a push start may be needed. Once it has ran recently it will start easier as the crank case will not be full of oil. It may take a while for it to pump all the extra oil out of the motor and it will want to stall until that oil is in the tank.

Wet grass, wet leaves stuck to the pavement, gravel, are not the place to use the front brake, you will learn that the hard way. I hope you found a soft spot when you dropped it.
A sticky throttle can get you in way worse trouble than a nice soft grass landing, fix that before riding again!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim The Grim View Post
Give the man a cigar !!

I had a mold ejection pin that fit perfectly. The mill is always trammed and square, so I put the pin in the spindle collet and used the indicator as a confirmation of position after having moved the Z axis.
Deltronic pin you mean...
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There are Plus or minus pins...then there is Deltronic, which technically is a minus pin xxx depending on price.
Then there is air gage...my world...jig grinding to 20 millionths tolerance...+ nothing and 50 millionths is a football field. If i see .0001 +/- .0001 on a print, well folks time kick up me feet and drink a beer.

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Was able to ride it around yesterday for about 4 miles - but now I can't shift into 2nd... That's for another thread tho.

Bike wouldn't start after I filled it up with gas so I had to walk it home.

I got a big kick back the first few times I tried to kick it after filling it with gas.

After it stopped kicking back at me it would try to start (without enricher on) but the engine would only fire once or a few times and wouldn't properly turn on. My coworker suggests I turn the mixture screw a half turn when it's warm to give it a bit more gas. Dunno if that would help.

When I walked it home (about a mile) I checked the plug conditions and the compression. The plugs looked optimal. Compression was 140 exactly (I keep getting lucky with the round numbers) in both cylinders. It wasn't hot, but it was warm. I could put my whole hand on the exhaust and feel the warmth but it wasn't burning hot at all.
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Ah the joys of owning a kick only CH !
Especially one without a pumper carb.
Quote:
My coworker suggests I turn the mixture screw a half turn when it's warm to give it a bit more gas.
Turning the idle screw clockwise LEANS out the mixture, anti CW will richhen it up.

You'll get better with practice. Try to stop at gas stations that are on a hill.

If you introduce too rich a mixture to the engine when your trying to start it you may "flood" the engine. The way to clear that condition is to open the throttle wide open and kick through 3 or 4 times.

When the engine is cold, enrichner on, no throttle. When it's warm. no emrichner and if it doesn't start on the first kick some SLIGHT throttle.
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