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  #1  
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Default Removing rear mount with engine in place?

Multi-part post follows. I'm fairly certain the threaded portion (where the bottom bolts go) on the rear motor mount are all buggered up (stripped, mangled, etc.). Frustration has me ready to invest in a rear Pingel mount, as I should have done in the first place. This is a custom engine (taller than stock) in a custom frame (tighter than stock). Getting the engine in is a job, to put it very mildly.

Question: has anyone cut off the rear mount with the engine in place? If I'm being an idiot, please tell me and move on. I just don't look forward to removing and replacing that engine again. It looks like very careful use of a reciprocating saw can do the job, but the only thing worse than removing the engine again would be accidentally carving up the engine or frame with a Sawzall. The engine can be held in place with the front mounts and a scissor jack or two (I only own two) supporting the rest of the engine

Anyone? Here's the frame and engine to show my reluctance. Thanks for any input.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
Getting the engine in is a job, to put it very mildly.
I am new to Sportsters, but others here have stated that it is much easier to lay the engine on its side and lower the [bare] frame over it. I haven't tried it, but it does seem much simpler. Would that work with your engine/frame combination???
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Tightening sequence is most important. Rear is done first.
See this link in the Sportsterpedia for tightening sequence.
Pay special attention to the "Further explanation of the tightening sequence" section.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:ih:engmech09

Yes, you should be able to cut the stock mount off and install a Pingel.
More on that here:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...:ref:engmech09
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I just recently had to replace a broken rear mount. I wondered the same thing, and found it would not work. You will have to pull the motor, and if you want to remove the mount without splitting the cases, you will have to pull the 3 studs that go into the left case.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferretface View Post
I am new to Sportsters, but others here have stated that it is much easier to lay the engine on its side and lower the [bare] frame over it. I haven't tried it, but it does seem much simpler. Would that work with your engine/frame combination???
Yes, the engine can only be installed by laying the bare frame over it, and then doing a dance and praying. The rocker boxes are two piece. I just learned that they have to come apart to get the engine in the frame (it’s tall) and then get reassembled in the frame. That’s part of the challenge.
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Even if you could cut it off , how would you get the new one on?

Even if you could I wouldn't recommend it. Most of the aftermarket mounts need to be hand fit. I've had several that didn't sit square until a little massaging between the case and mount was done.
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Default

I didn't finish that thought from my last post.
Yes, you should be able to cut the stock mount off and install a Pingel.
But the motor needs to come out.
Someone else had trouble with fitment and the Pingel needing massaged to fit on the case... needspeed? can't remember.
XLF member, paraord, used a Dremil tool to cut his out.
You've got more accessability with the motor out.
edit:
Here is some information on installing the motor by laying the frame over it if it helps.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:ref:genmsr41

The trouble cutting it out is the 3 studs as jsandidge mentioned.
A sawzall is difficult to make a cut without slipping into the wrong piece.

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I think you could do it.
Things I think would help...
Dremel with cut-off discs.
A small, pneumatic reciprocating saw with proper blades, maybe trimmed to fit without hitting cases.
I'd cut off the top part of the mount first. Then the left and right side, where it's bolted to the frame.
That would leave you with the center of the mount, held in with the 3 case studs. I think with some careful trimming and use of cut-off wheels, you could work your way in to being able to double nut the studs. Maybe a little heat from a small mapp gas or propabe torch, where the studa go in the left case...you could probably remove the studs. Once those are out, the remains of the mount will come out. Install new mount with bolts...and that should take cate of that.
I think it can be done.
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Thanks for the links, Hippysmack.
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Default

I have found the Pingal mounts to be very good.

However, nearly every frame I used them on needed some grinding on the twin tomahawk section to fit correctly.
The mounts rest on a narrow ledge machines into that casting. The engine mount needs to sit flush on there.
If your lucky it will fit. If not, I don't know how your going to get in there to grind away the problem.
And yes, the studs can be very difficult to remove at times.

Any "healthy" engine is probably going to break the stock alloy mount eventually. They aren't strong enough for stock engines.

Although I suspect a lot of them get broken due to problems with either the top engine mount or the front engine mounts.
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