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  #51  
Old 21st March 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Folkie View Post
Where are you getting the 61T from?
Bought one off ebay and it was even chromed. I'll have to use a spacer tho.
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  #52  
Old 21st March 2012
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Thumbs up 32T Pulley Install Details w/Photos

As mentioned above, I installed the 32 tooth front pulley that I got from Sirrom1 earlier this year. The conversion was not overly involved or tricky, but it did involve a considerable amount of grinding and filing to gain sufficient clearance for the belt and pulley.

Dis-assembly was right out of the workshop manual: I removed the mufflers and rear head pipe (actually, I removed both head pipes - but only because I was putting in new exhaust gaskets - normally, the front head pipe could be left in place.) I also removed the left foot peg assembly and brake actuation rod. The pulley cover is then removed. At that point, I loosened the axle nut and the adjusters. This allowed me to slacken the belt enough to get it off the front pulley and out of the way.



I was concerned about getting that big nut loose as others report having experienced problems. The nut is 1 7/8" and I had to go to work to find a 3/4 drive socket big enough to fit. I used an adapter to hook up to my 1/2 impact. I heated the nut with a propane torch and the impact knocked it loose. Just remember that it is LEFT HAND THREAD and needs to be removed CLOCK-WISE.



Above, is the output shaft with the pulley removed. The arrows indicate the bosses that need to be ground down to clear the new pulley and belt. Note at the bottom, the dotted line across the exhaust balance tube/support bracket. This also needed to be modified. It was not mentioned in the instructions, so I assume the bracket has changed since the pulley kit was designed.



The instructions say to allow an additional 1/8" of clearance between the edge of the pulley and each of the three bosses. Above is the new pulley installed on the output shaft showing how tight things are.



I covered the output shaft and seal with tape to protect them from bits of metal. Using a rotary file attachment (as per the instructions) on my drill, the bosses were ground down. I probably took off more metal than I needed to, but things seemed very tight in there and I didn't want the belt to rub on anything...especially as I imagined it would probably swell when hot or "grow" on deceleration. So, I took off plenty of metal. The bosses really only hold the pulley cover on, so are not super critical members.



Here is the transmission following my modifications. You can see the clearance on all three bosses. Also, note the exhaust bracket. That needed considerable grinding also. In addition, I needed to clearance the corresponding bosses on the pulley cover itself. This was a little trickier, as the cover needed to be clamped in a vice. This limited my ability to use the rotary file and I ended up doing a lot more flat file work to gain enough space.



Here's the cover following modification. The upper and lower bosses needed the most work because of the additional clearance for the belt. The rear boss did not need much material removed.



Above is the new pulley in place on the shaft. You can note the clearances to the bosses and exhaust bracket. Once I had everything ground down to my liking, I re-installed the belt, locked the rear wheel, installed the pulley and nut w/red locktite and rotating COUNTER-CLOCKWISE torqued to the nut to 50Ft/Lbs. Then, I rotated the nut a further 30 degrees, as per the repair manual, and installed the lock plate.



At this point, re-assembly followed the repair manual...adjust the belt tension and verify wheel alignment, re-install pulley cover, foot peg/brake rod, head pipe and mufflers. A quick road test to confirm nothing was rubbing. Here's the rear pulley and belt...everything looks good...



How does it feel? Well my biggest initial impression is there is a bit more rev/clutch slip needed to get started...but, this is understandable and expected. Other than that, everything feels fine...I just go faster than before at a given engine speed. I'm still braking in my 1250 kit, so my riding is limited to 3200 rpm and below.

I still need to figure out a way to re-calibrate my speedo, but as I roll more miles I will post up my observations. At this point, everything seems to be working as designed. How this is helpful to someone
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  #53  
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Yeah, that bracket must have changed. You can see his in the install photo's and it doesnt rise that high. Sirrom1 has those speedo recalibrators as well.
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  #54  
Old 21st March 2012
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GREAT set of pics. Thanks!
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  #55  
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For anyone further interested in carb adjustment/function/tuning the following thread is excellent. You'll notice the discussion of throttle position relative to fuel consumption as it relates to the different circuits of the carb. Even though FI has been standard for years now, the trouble shooting rich/lean is still valid for what ails you.
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49078
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  #56  
Old 22nd March 2012
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Got the speedometer recalibration thing figured out (with the help of Screw Loose Dan.) In my case, I had purchased a DynoJet Power Vision tuner to use with my 1250 conversion. Power Vision has the capacity to do a whole bunch of stuff...including allowing you to re-calibrate your speedo/odometer for different gearing, tires, etc. Its a cool tool...not cheap, but very worth the money in my opinion.

I was able to sneak in a quick ride last evening - before the rain started - and it looks like I'm pretty close, speedometer wise.

There's rain forecast for the next couple of days, but hopefully by the weekend I can get out and really give this thing a good road-test. Very excited...new gearing, new displacement, new power, new riding season!
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  #57  
Old 14th November 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmellis View Post
As mentioned above, I installed the 32 tooth front pulley that I got from Sirrom1 earlier this year. The conversion was not overly involved or tricky, but it did involve a considerable amount of grinding and filing to gain sufficient clearance for the belt and pulley.

Dis-assembly was right out of the workshop manual: I removed the mufflers and rear head pipe (actually, I removed both head pipes - but only because I was putting in new exhaust gaskets - normally, the front head pipe could be left in place.) I also removed the left foot peg assembly and brake actuation rod. The pulley cover is then removed. At that point, I loosened the axle nut and the adjusters. This allowed me to slacken the belt enough to get it off the front pulley and out of the way.



I was concerned about getting that big nut loose as others report having experienced problems. The nut is 1 7/8" and I had to go to work to find a 3/4 drive socket big enough to fit. I used an adapter to hook up to my 1/2 impact. I heated the nut with a propane torch and the impact knocked it loose. Just remember that it is LEFT HAND THREAD and needs to be removed CLOCK-WISE.



Above, is the output shaft with the pulley removed. The arrows indicate the bosses that need to be ground down to clear the new pulley and belt. Note at the bottom, the dotted line across the exhaust balance tube/support bracket. This also needed to be modified. It was not mentioned in the instructions, so I assume the bracket has changed since the pulley kit was designed.



The instructions say to allow an additional 1/8" of clearance between the edge of the pulley and each of the three bosses. Above is the new pulley installed on the output shaft showing how tight things are.



I covered the output shaft and seal with tape to protect them from bits of metal. Using a rotary file attachment (as per the instructions) on my drill, the bosses were ground down. I probably took off more metal than I needed to, but things seemed very tight in there and I didn't want the belt to rub on anything...especially as I imagined it would probably swell when hot or "grow" on deceleration. So, I took off plenty of metal. The bosses really only hold the pulley cover on, so are not super critical members.



Here is the transmission following my modifications. You can see the clearance on all three bosses. Also, note the exhaust bracket. That needed considerable grinding also. In addition, I needed to clearance the corresponding bosses on the pulley cover itself. This was a little trickier, as the cover needed to be clamped in a vice. This limited my ability to use the rotary file and I ended up doing a lot more flat file work to gain enough space.



Here's the cover following modification. The upper and lower bosses needed the most work because of the additional clearance for the belt. The rear boss did not need much material removed.



Above is the new pulley in place on the shaft. You can note the clearances to the bosses and exhaust bracket. Once I had everything ground down to my liking, I re-installed the belt, locked the rear wheel, installed the pulley and nut w/red locktite and rotating COUNTER-CLOCKWISE torqued to the nut to 50Ft/Lbs. Then, I rotated the nut a further 30 degrees, as per the repair manual, and installed the lock plate.



At this point, re-assembly followed the repair manual...adjust the belt tension and verify wheel alignment, re-install pulley cover, foot peg/brake rod, head pipe and mufflers. A quick road test to confirm nothing was rubbing. Here's the rear pulley and belt...everything looks good...



How does it feel? Well my biggest initial impression is there is a bit more rev/clutch slip needed to get started...but, this is understandable and expected. Other than that, everything feels fine...I just go faster than before at a given engine speed. I'm still braking in my 1250 kit, so my riding is limited to 3200 rpm and below.

I still need to figure out a way to re-calibrate my speedo, but as I roll more miles I will post up my observations. At this point, everything seems to be working as designed. How this is helpful to someone
I'd be interested in finding out what spacers you used on the rear sprocket as the original is just too small.
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  #58  
Old 14th November 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awha View Post
I'd be interested in finding out what spacers you used on the rear sprocket as the original is just too small.
I did nothing to the rear sprocket/pulley. That stayed stock. The 32 tooth front pulley came with an aluminum spacer to align it with the rear.
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  #59  
Old 14th November 2018
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Thanks, I had the rubber isolator rear sprocket which doesn't have the standard spacer.
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