Ironhead 1970 XLCH 900 - Short Block needed

[gerdrube]

Looks like I need to replace the short block on my 1970 XLCH 900. Any idea where to find one? Other option would be to replace the whole engine although the cylinders are still in good shape... I appreciate any advise or suggests. Thanks!

[ryder rick]

There are no "short blocks" for your Ironhead.

Rebuild what you have, don't by some used or untrusted wrenches work.

[IronHeadRon]

Originally Posted by ryder rick

There are no "short blocks" for your Ironhead.

Rebuild what you have, don't by some used or untrusted wrenches work.

Oh thank Thor's haram, I was scared to click; but knew I must find out what an Ironhead Shortblock is (Are there even blocks on bikes? I'd equate them to the crankcase, not the jugs)

Anyways, OP, what issue are you having, and why do you believe this to be necessary, and what do you mean by "short block" (cylinders, heads, case:crank, cam, primary, and trans sections)

If you didn't have a picture, I'd ask if it used to be a shovster or something.

Oh I see you say cylinders are in good shape. You do know that those cases are some of the most weldable aluminum ever seen right? And is it weeping, is there a hole in it, did someone overtired a drain bolt?

I think finding a gasket or a welder or a machinist with helicoils is your cheapest way out but hard to tell with so little info...... beautiful hardtail though, is that a Jammer frame

[IMG][/IMG]

[IronHeadRon]

Also, if you want to pm your price range I can ask the guy that sold us our primary cover (it must have come off a case right?!) But he is a busy man and charges a premium because he knows these old parts are better than the repo and never coming back. So I need to know how serious you are.

Also, he may not even want to mess with it for an internet friend, and I know you aren't about to front a stranger money. So it won't even be the "friends and family" prices described above, but worse.

They must make repos, if it comes to that .... right? If not let me know what you want for your old engine if you replace.

[Ferrous Head]

These things aren't like a 350 Chevy.

There are no Made in Mexico cheap alternatives. The factory no longer makes cases for the them and there are no A?M suppliers.

So, you can't buy a new short or long engine from a dealer.

Any engine you buy will be either used or used and rebuilt with second hand cases.

If major work is required your best option generally is to rebuild your own engine.

But first you should determine what exactly, if anything, is wrong with your current engine.

[IronHeadRon]

Originally Posted by Ferrous Head

So, you can't buy a new short or long engine from a dealer.

Good to know the case is so precious, what is thus short/long thing Ferrous?

Does it have to do with the rectangle new ch's and all h's had? Or was there another significant change in the length (the OP and you seem to be using it like common jargon, so it takes me back I've never heard it.

[rokytnji]

Since not real stock. A 1000 motor probably is probably a easier way to go
outside of Evo.

Might call Truett and Osborne and see if they can straighten your 900 motor out also.

Might even have repaired cases in stock.

3345 E. 31st Street South, Wichita Kansas 67216

316-682-4781

[joe s]

@ironheadron Short block is an automotive term, as is long block. Short block includes crank, rods and pistons. Long block adds heads.

I suspect the OP wants a crankcase, wheels, rods and maybe pistons?

[Ferrous Head]

Really need to know why you think you need a new short block.

[ryder rick]

I have successfully retapped the drain plug hole to accept an appropriately sized pipe plug.
A helicoil will not seal, that will rely on a washer and a straight bolt to seal (and you are not likely to get the bolt straight).
NOTE: You may have to cut down a tap to finish the threads, so you don't hit stuff on the inside.
Use a new tap and start it straight in the right size hole.....
If you are not experienced at tapping holes, buy a second tap and practice on something before you try it.
Check your plug fit as you go so you don't tap it too deep.
You can get a nice stainless or brass pipe plug with an internal or external hex at a hydraulic shop.

Before you go swapping cases check your title and see if it is reg'd by the motor # or the frame #. (Or if the motor # is recorded it will likely have to be re-inspected.)
If it is reg'd by the motor # it may have to be re-titled.